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~KnuckleDuster~

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Posts posted by ~KnuckleDuster~

  1. Alignment is complete and feels better than ever. Set camber at - 0.8 on all 4 corners. The people who run the truck scales were on vacation so I wasn't able to get the car weighed unfortunately. Got the new alternator in, no more drain! I decided not to go with the underdrive pulley in case that wasn't helping the overall cooling of the alternator.

     

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    Radiator is in. Much cleaner, not as much bling but functions like a champ. Takes forever for the fan to kick on at 185*. The Spal fan runs so much smoother than the previous generic fan I was running.

     

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    Just need to find a 90* barb fitting for the overflow drain tube so it's not flopped over the intake.

  2. If you're looking for an NA inline-6, I think the 2JZ-DE out of a Lexus would be easier and cheaper to obtain. As it was availible in the US, parts for it are probably easier/cheaper to get as well.

     

    ...of course you could always go the German route like a crazy person...

     

    Having owned both n/a 2JZ and n/a RB the power delivery is quite different. The 2jz has really good low / mid range power and torque and falls on it's face in higher rpms. The RB has good power all around the rev range and pulls hard all the way until red line. Both are going to be 180-200 hp and with a bunch more money 20-40 hp if your lucky. The 5 speed transmissions in the 2j's (from the is300 at least) have issues and just don't feel right, it's one thing I hated about my IS300. I personally like the RB motor over the 2J, it feels stronger, sounds better, and it's Nissan for god sake!

     

    The question you have to ask yourself is what do you want out of the car? A track car? Sunday driver? No one here can tell you whats right for you. Do your research, make a game plan. Execute.

  3. I want to get a dual pass later but my crossover pipe seems to work fine. I just sourced a pipe from O'reilly's the worked when I cut it and put a plastic coupler in it. I also don't want to get rid of my MSA fan setup just yet. I have seen some setups on the RB that they used the factory RB upper hose, we're you able to try it?

    I planned on running the oem upper hose too but it has to come from Japan and the cheapest I was able to find it for was around $30 plus another $24 for shipping. I didn't want to pay over $50 for it. The s13/s14 guys use a z32 lower hose since it has the bulged end and cut to fit with success, you can apparently use whats left over for the lower too. I got the z32 lower hose for $25 shipped.

     

    For anyone interested the part numbers:

     

    OEM R34 upper radiator hose - 21501-AA000

    OEM R33/R34 lower radiator hose - 21503-72L00

    OEM Z32 lower radiator hose - 2150340P60

    Gates Z32 lower radiator hose - 21878

     
  4. Well I wasn't planning on upgrading the radiator this soon but when you find exactly what you want for a great price you just have to do it. Bought this Mckinney double pass radiator complete with fan shroud and Spal fan. I bought an OEM RB lower radiator hose and a Z32 lower radiator hose to modify for the upper. The CX Racing cross over pipe kit with silicone couplers has given me nothing but problems. Constantly springs leaks, the latest leak spilled coolant on top and inside the alternator and now I have a battery drain problem which has caused my battery to drain down enough times to kill it. The hot coolant inside the alternator probably fried a diode and is now bleeding off my battery. So that's why I'm going with good old fashion rubber hoses now! The elimination of that cross over pipe will look so much cleaner..

     

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  5. Got both sides of the suspension on now, just need to get the toe somewhat good enough to drive to my alignment shop.

     

    A little while back I bought a used Nardi Classic steering wheel from Japan. My 71 had the Nardi Deep Corn which looked really nice but it placed the wheel to close to my chest, I have long arms so I don't need the wheel any closer to me. So went with the classic to keep it closer to the stock location. Love the feel of a quality leather steering wheel. The stitching is white which matches the Sparco seats. Eventually I may get a new shift boot with the white stitching to make the feng shui copasetic.

     

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  6. Passenger side is nearing completion, just need to torque everything to specs. Everything has lined right up without any issues. I've painted the outer tie rods and also cleaned and painted the steering knuckles. I think I'll do the traction control rod while it's off just to hit everything.

     

    I re-greased the steering rack while everything was off. Installed zerk fittings on the rack and pumped fresh grease in, no old grease came out so the thing was basically bone dry. I had a spare steering rack laying around that I was able to salvage a used boot with out any rips to replaced one of my ripped ones.

     

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  7. It's time to finally pay some attention to the aging front suspension. I figure while I'm doing a slight re fresh I may as well do some upgrades while I'm there. After some research on adjustable front control arms I came to the conclusion I didn't need anything over engineered. The Techno Toy Tuning arms had good reviews but they were quite a bit heavy, hence over engineered. I decided on the Futo Fab control arms because they're close to stock form and not heavy at all. They retain the stock sway bar location and can be used with their adjustable tie rod ends or stock. They're held in high regard in the 510 world and I've only heard one Z guy who had them installed. They seem quite beefy and sure are pretty! Paid extra for the optional dust boots.

     

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  8. Are you going to upgrade that radiator? Eventually I am going with a dual pass that will put the inlet on the correct side to remove the crossover coolant line when using the L series radiator. Looking good!

    Definitely want to do that in the near future. I've heard about specific year 510's that have the same side inlet and outlets but my searching hasn't come up with a part number for something after market. I would prefer something that somewhat replicates the stock mounting points. Do you know what rad your going with yet?

  9. So I've had my eye out for a used intake heat shield on ebay for a while now and finally came across something that fit my criteria. It's a K&N heat shield from a 94-04 Mustang kit. It's very robust stainless steel and required very little modification to make everything fit. I took a gamble on it for $25 bucks and it fits perfectly. Before having a heat shield the filter was about 100* and 120* on the side facing the exhaust manifold. It will be interesting to see how the temps read now.

     

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  10. What's the story of this car??? This was mine, and been trying to find it again... Thing was a solid car, put a ton of miles. Kinda sad it only put down 120hp. Lol. Anyways, if anyone has any leads, lemmie know... And those seats were out of a 911 Turbo with the sport seats. I had them upholstered. Those seats changed the whole feel of the car.

    Hey! How long did you own the Z for? I wish I had you as a contact before the car was sold, always fun getting the history of the car. The car was sold on ebay to a guy in Canada and was never heard from again. I've since tried to find the guys ebay name to send him a message asking how the car was but I couldn't seem to find it. Kinda weird that it's never came up anywhere online. There's only a handful of rb25de Z's rolling around North America & Canada. And yeah the seats were awesome, never bolted down properly but felt great none the less.

     

    Here she was on Bring a Trailer... and a trailer was brought.. :(

     

    http://bringatrailer.com/2010/11/11/1971-datsun-240z-rb25de/

  11. This is why I've been wanting security cameras. Good deterrent and at the very least you could get a general description of them. Do you have neighbors near by? Things like this tend to happen in more rural areas.

  12. Ok took the Z out around town this morning. Felt really good. Pedal travel is very short and feels nice and firm. It feels like the rear brakes come on the same time as the fronts during hard braking where as before you would feel more of the fronts stopping you. I don't see this being a bad thing yet at least for driving around town. The real test will be when I get it out in the canyons and see how the car behaves. I've heard some people replaced their NP valve with one from a 280zx, that may proportion the brakes better since the zx's had disc brakes. The e-brake feels better too, only a couple clicks to fully engage not cranking the whole lever sky high.

     

    After the drive the front brakes were @ 145* and the rears were @ 110*

  13. Here's my referencing threads for my info. I just finished getting the e brake hooked up so I'm going to test drive today or tomorrow and check the brake temp front vs. rear with a pyro meter and see if the rears are getting hot from some drag.

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105599-need-help-with-dragging-rear-disc-brakes/

     

    http://community.ratsun.net/topic/38410-master-cyllinder-change-for-disk-brakes-swap/

     

    From 73 FSM:

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    The 1972 FSM shows the proportioning valve in the rear, different master cylinder internals, and a lack of an NP valve in the engine bay (#6 Above).

     

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    So the NP valve in the engine bay is the proportioning valve in the 73 model. I wonder if it's operation is the same and I should gut the rear line side. Getting someone to chime in with a 73 & rear discs might be tricky... more research on this NP valve..

  14. Some people mistake it for a bias valve. On rear drum setups, a residual pressure valve is put in the system to leave a little pressure in the lines to keep the brake shoes loaded on the drum. This isn't needed on the disc setup. I just gutted it and put it back together. Just remove the bolt and take the spring and pintle valve out.

     

     

    https://goo.gl/images/7dMS3g

     

    Ok so apparently the residual check valve was only at the rear passenger side of the car from 70-72, on 73 models it was located in the engine bay. From what I can find there's residual check valves located in the master cylinder. I've since upgraded to the 280zx 5/16 MC. The 280zx had all disc brakes yet the MC still has the check valves but the springs only add a couple pounds of pressure to keep the pads loaded and keep the rotor clean. So the 240z MC would have had the higher 10 lb spring in it for keeping the rear drums loaded. Is there some other location for another RCV or am I good? When I test drove I didn't notice any noise and since I didn't have the e-brake hooked up at the time it was definitely rolling around with ease.

  15. I tried one once on the driver side door using about the same location as stock and the same thing happened to me, it was totally useless. I didn't feeling like drilling more holes in the door so I just left it that way until I sold the Z. I think if you install it at the very top corner of the door that would be the only way to get it to work.

     

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