SCCAZ

Cant change it. I, however, pulled it out and put in an analog 130mph speedo, back in 93-94 or so. Then the internet made a big splash, followed by this site. oh how time flies.

Thats alot of info. Shouldnt have to ask on here anymore about how to build a 383. Might make a good sticky link.

I am doing a 383 myself. The parts, overall, are not expensive. Its a swap that has been done over and over and is tried an true. The LS swap would be reeaaly nice, but fuel injection adds cost and complexity. It may end up being about the same price as a used LS swap, but a carb set-up reduces wiring issue problems. Super Chevy did a 383 build earlier this year and got about 425 hp out of the engine. I already planned to use the same heads they did. The cam may end up being a bit more mild then theirs. I wont be racing it on a strip other than to see what it will do, so all out hp is not my goal. Just a good driving car with a strong engine is all I need/want. I think an old fashioned 383 will fit the bill just fine.

Thanks for a great description. I will go through those links as my time permits. I can easily see there is alot of info from those. I am not looking for a drag car style engine. It will be a street car and maybe a few runs on the strip to see where it falls. I'd like a broad power band, and I dont have a tendency to run the piss out of things. My compression ration with the rotating assembly is suppose to be 9.8:1 using 62cc chambers, 2.05 intake/1.6 ex valves from the Patriot aluminum heads which I believe are 210cfm. I know the Dart heads are suggested, but the Patriots are what I was starting to base the build off of. I apparently had it backwards about lobe seperation. I thought 112 would be a lopey idle. So its the lower numbers that make the lopey idle, right? I prefer to have a fairly smooth idle. I'm open to suggestions as what cam grind to use, but will definetly go through those links to "broaden my knowledge". Thanks guys.

I already have the rotating assembly installed. I got an Eagle Products balanced set. The sides of the pistons are coated, but not the tops. I will look into those heads and look into the valves. I dont want a loping V8. I would rather keep it smooth. Is a 110 lobe seperation fairly smooth, or should I go 108? Super Chevy built a 383 using the same main parts (rotating assembly, Patriot heads, dual plane intake) and got 425hp on an engine dyno. It was a 3 part build up in last falls issues. Dont remember the specifics like cam, or carb. Thank you.

1st gen Miata piller pods are an EXACT fit to S130's I have a single pod sittin here waiting for a reason to use it.

I have a lower end built for a 383. The block is from a 97 Suburban. I want to use Patriot aluminum heads. I want roller rockers as well, and the block is already designed for roller lifters. My question comes from looking through Summit and JEGS. Most everything listed will say "up to 87" or "87-95" for the heads and other things. Should I use parts for 87-95? Are there any differences from this particular 97 block and all the listings for aftermarket parts I own a regular repair shop, so doing any of this is not a problem. My experience is just fixing everyday cars with stock parts. Not making something from scratch and making sure its done right the first time. I'm sure everyone agrees, its no fun going through this much time and expense, and having to repeat it all over again. There is alot of good stuff here, and I have already done a bunch of searching. But I have not seen something like this discussed.