nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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19 minutes ago, jhm said:
Nice, nullbound. I really I could find a good quality high-mount bracket for use with a short water pump, but haven't had any luck with it. May just have to make one myself.
Thanks! I looked into that at one point, too, with the swp but they all seemed to mount too far out and would either hit the inner fender well or not clear the hood. This bracket kit for the lwp is pretty simple, looks clean, and worked well with my mostly stock wiring.
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That ICT bracket looks like it may not clear. I used the following March Bracket kit to mount mine on the passenger side:
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There's another thread on this topic where the pics still work: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120932-blower-motor-upgrade-kia-sportage/
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This car sold to YoSammyT. Thread can be closed.
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I have one. Will PM with pics in a little bit.
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Pretty sure I have one. I'll check tonight or in the morning.
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With both the JTR and hooker mounting kits I've used the GM truck motor mounts that @jhm mentioned. They are for '63 to '72 GM trucks. You can use a Chevy C10 from those years as a reference vehicle.
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Looks great. Got any part numbers for those radiator hoses?
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I've seen a few, but don't recall the specific users. Redlinevo7's is a good example, though, as linked above.
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I looked at them, but agreed on the expensive. I was able to find a few used pieces on ebay. Got enough to do my 280.
This can be closed.
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PM sent
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Pretty sure it will clear. I almost always leave the lower pulley attached to the harmonic balancer when pulling or installing mine. I don't think the water pump sticks out much farther.
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For drag racing you want both wheels spinning off the line, so you want locking diff, spool, or welded diff.
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A close friend of mine has ran multiple 240z's in the 10's/11's with Small Block Chevys. His cars were updated with poly busings, solid front diff mount, welded diff, roll bar, tokico springs, tokico cartridges, 15x8 welds on the rear with 26x9 slicks, 15x4s on the front.
One of his can be seen in this DNI video from 2009: https://youtu.be/DXj573SiU58?t=2m49s
He technically needed a full cage for the times he could run. And he could have benefited from strengthening his frame rails and adding subframe connectors.
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It would be good to also state what other suspension changes you've made prior to these changes (springs, strut cartridges, etc.).
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I'm pretty sure those air-dams are supposed to bolt to the outside of the buckets, not the inside. Makes a difference. Maybe you can do a search on here, pretty sure it's been discussed.
They're all supposed to bolt to the back side of the headlight buckets.
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That's part of the reason I usually end up putting 240z air dams on 280z's (with 240z signals).
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The original LT1 engine , T-56 Transmission, and Q45 VLSD are still going strong in my car!
Nice! I ended up with the original headers Tim240Z turned into tri-y's with that engine and transmission. The went on another friend's car.
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I've probably thrown away 6 sets of this aluminum channel trim in the past, but am looking for a set now for a daily driver. Let me know what you have. I have a partial set, but don't have all the right bullet ends.
Looks like this on the fender and doors below:
Thanks,
Ryan
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Sale pending.
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The Suspension Techniques 240z sway bar kit (front and rear) is what I normally use on any s30 and what is normally recommended here on these forums. I am installing the same on a '75 280z currently.
Here's a couple of good threads for reference:
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110315-sway-bar-options/
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117547-suspension-techniques-vs-msa-sway-bars/
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Oh weird. I just placed an order for one with MSA.. and I ultimately will need three total for projects I have going.
Lowering Spring Gap
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
This is normal for lowering springs. Just make sure that the spring sits in the lower spring perch and in the spring hat seat correctly when the weight is on the suspension (you have it in the right orientation here). It's easy to get them out of alignment when installing them in the car and before putting the car on the ground. I usually use a couple of zip ties to keep the spring in the right position with respect to the hat and perch. There are drain holes in the lower spring perch and in the hats that will fit zip ties.