Skatekov

Deleted for inaccuracy / insufficient information.

The spoiler is indeed for S30. Its a Victory spoiler, Though I just directly put them on, Slownrusty is filling up all his gaps. Center panel needs cutting 1 inch on both sides and keep in mind the Z31 taillights doesn't fit the arch or even the original hole without modification. 280zx harness does fit into the Z31 bulb holes. needs slight modification on the reverse lamp.

Well, a few years back some guy put mustang tailights and few months back I posted a photoshop request. Here it is in real life. Still a work in progress. Z31 lights are few inches bigger than the S130 so It requires a bit more of work.

drilled holes and bolted em on. but I think combination of both would have been better since they only come with 2 threaded holes. If you ever plan on bolting em on, I'd recomend you slit the hole on the hatch so you can adjust the position. You'd have to put a pretty big hole in the hatch frame to get the washer through though....

Slow and rusty covered this a year ago below http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104588-msa-victory-s30-rear-spoiler-fit-and-feedback-pics/ But here's how it fit with my car. I think the dent on the left corner Is either dependent on that specific spoiler or maybe they fixed the mold. Its not very visible on mine. Purchased few days ago. Came with 3 mounting hole but only 2 bolts. Maybe the center one interfere with the wiper on the S30? Anyways here's the left end of the spoiler. Note that this spoiler is for S30 so there will be parts where lines doesn't match like the C piller, However with light fiberglassing I'm sure it can be modified to perfectly fit. About a can of coke high. I think its slightly more slanted than on the S30. However width and curve matches the S130 quite. Rear shot (also, the spoiler is high enough to be visible from the rear view mirror if that bothers you.) Peace.

I don't have pics but for around 4,000 bucks you can get a custom made S130 Spindle type coilovers from Tein. Saw it on an ad on one of my Japanese magazine.

only around 300 bucks if you live in japan. by that not the Gnose but the Flares

Changed fuel rail design, No change. Shaft isn't leaking. Could lack of fuel pressure cause this? (the regulator has been moved to the return side after this video but no change.

can only check fuel level with it not running. I have the simple style fuel bowl w/o drain plug. and I'm really low on fuel pressure or the Egay gauge isn't working. but I'm suspecting that and the fuel rail design the most. maybe the rear carb is getting fuel first.

nedle valve is brand new and not sticking last time i checked it . will have to check throttle shaft leak. probably why. But will it cause such an dramatic imbalance?

yup, airflow is in sync, used unisyn. did the standard 2.5 turn. with the idle mixture nut Mods are SM needle I took apart everything, maybe I messed up the throttle butterfly clearance. ebay fuel pump... only pumping out like 1.5~2psi F54 P79 stock 280zx L28E engine. I understand how SU's work mostly. but I'm new to it so I lack experience with it.

OK... So I finally got everything on the car and the round top SU carb'd 280zx is running. Idles little high (1000~1200), starts up fine. revs pretty fine too. idles at 170~180F but when I try to tune the A/F mixture and push the piston on the front carbs up, it stumbles and almost dies (but ofcourse I rev it so it doesn't die) while the rear carbs on the other hand even if i push the piston up, nothing changes. no hearable increase or decrease in idle. tried taking the fuel mixture pretty far down but still stumbles and dies on the front carb. I've tried fiddling with the float level. No change so I put it back to the factory setting. all the gaskets are replaced. holes are cleaned. Tried different shoulder positions of the jet needle: one, the z therapy method where you have shoulders flush with the bottom of the piston: too lean, not enough for mixture nuts to compensate and the rear carb is still un-affected. coughs and dies. The straight edge method: flush with the needle mount, starts up without choke and idles but idle is a bit too high, even with the throttle all the way closed the engine still idles at around 1000. spark pluggs are fouled up. the front 3 are dry fouled while the rear 3 (cyl 4,5,6) are wet fouled My guess is: -Throttle shaft leak -"modified" E12-9x ign module ******* up -bad vacuum lines hook up.to dist etc I need help with this . -Me not using choke (but its like 90~100F out side...and starts up...) -needle position (where is the "real" bottom of the piston thats supposed to be flush with the shoulder? the little passage for idle or actual surface of the piston that touches the bridge. -and or bad fuel line and low fuel pressure. by the way this is what my fuel line looks like.. I havent got an chance to go get a OEM fuel rail . As you know many will say "Use the search" but it still havent gave me a clue or answer. little tight on budget and time for a DVD

If I could answer my own question, then I would have never even posted here in the first place... Anyways, I tried it by ear and sight, the engine ran smooth but had slower idle cold and hot when the side connector was disconnected... the belt was obviousely slower even by eye. So I guess It retards when the connector is not connected.... to keep in mind my FI run like crap to begin with so even if i did have a timing light, it probably won't give the best result.

Don't have a timing light.... I guess If it's I could hear the difference... If it retards it with the connection for engine warm up, then if I disconnect the side connector, it should run rougher when the engine is cold... right?

Its one of those topic that confuses people b/c many say not to use it without any supporting evidence..... Anyways. I'm going SU carbs on my 83 280zx, and I will be keeping the stock Ignition. but with the F-I stuff disconnected. The real question is, While some say E12-92 will retard the timing if the side connectors are DISCONNECTED, and Some say that E12-92 retard the timing with the side connectors CONNECTED then later the ECU cuts signal to de-retard it after engine is warmed up. What is true and what is not? I need to gather parts for my project and I don't want to go buy E12-80 for nothing.