cybermecium

The company that makes adaptors for VW transaxles is called Kennedy Engineering, I think. Have you thought about putting the L motor inside the car, with sheet metal built up around it (kind of like how the motor in a full size van comes into the passenger compartment) with the transaxle behind the motor, you probably wouldn't have a back seat but you would have a mid-engine car.

Check valve clearances and adjust if necessary.

It might be the oil pressure sending unit that's going out rather than the guage itself. I think the oil pressure guage is just basicly an Ohmmeter that gives a reading based on the variable resistance of the sending unit. If the gauge is giving a reading I would guess it is working correctly so it's probably the sender. Find out the resistance range for the sender and check it with an ohm meter, or just buy a new one and try it they aren't very expensive and are a pretty common part to go out on these motors. The noise could be anything from rocker noise, exhaust lead, rod knock. Describe the noise in more detail if you can. I think what your drag racing buddy was talking about was a valve lash adjustment which means setting the valve to rocker clearances to factory specs. Jake

How about a V8? Maybe from a Commodore?

Depends on how much work you want to do. The L28ET will drop right into your 240, same size and mount location as the stock engine. Also, if you use a NA ZX 5 speed (rather than the Borg Warner T5 that goes with the L28ET), the tranny will bolt right in and work with your stock driveshaft with no mods. The NA 5 speed is a direct fit to the L28ET and a direct fit to the 240 driveshaft and tranny mount location. Also, with the NA 5 speed you don't have the shifter location issues that you would with the T5. I don't know anything about the RB or the tranny that goes with it, but I know it isn't as much of a bolt in swap as the L series motor would be. Jake

The throttle return springs are installed, to the air cleaner baseplates, not the heat shield, throttle action and return works fine. (thanks Jon for sorting out the linkage.) Now it starts (after many cranks) and idles at about 1000rpm with no problem. However when trying to crank it sometimes it backfires out the carbs, and while it is idling, if I give it ANY amount of throttle, it spits out the carbs and dies. I am assuming ignition timing? For clarification- firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 correct? And cylinder #1 is that closest to the radiator? Thanks for the help, Jake

I am using the right linkage that came with the round tops, I am 99% sure that the linkage is not the problem, when I work the action of the throttle by hand it actuates the throttles in both carbs just fine. However, I noticed that the brake booster vac line has a nice crack in it right where it connects to the barb on the intake, and also the PCV hose has a crack in it... probably a major source of the problem. Thanks Jake

I just got my motor running today after sorting out some ignition problems. I am running an N42/N42 L28 with stock 240 roundtop SU's. Unfortunately I am running the stock 240Z points ignition because at the moment I don't have anything better. When I started it up it first would pop and sputter but not start. If I advance the timing via the distributor very slightly it will run but... revs up to about 4K RPM. I had it "running" at around 1500rpm and opening the throttle had absolutely no effect on engine speed or running conditions. All the linkage is hooked up, ignition and cam timing are correct. What could is be that is causing my engine to either run very very fast or not run at all, with the throttle doing nothing about it? Thanks Jake

I just bought an P30 block with an E88 head on it. It's got round top SU's. Its complete from carbs to tranny but I haven't fired it up yet. I thought the E88 head came with the L26 stock am I wrong? Jake

What 5speed transmission was used in the 80 280ZX NA? Is there a difference in splines from tranny to tranny? thanks

I have a 73 240Z with the stock R180 and stock driveshaft. Will the stock driveshaft work on a 1980 280ZX NA 5 speed transmission? I am having a LOT of trouble trying to get the driveshaft into the tail section of the transmission. Thanks Jake

Come on I know somebody knows this. Help me out here thanks Jake

I think I may have put my springs on wrong (a front and a rear in the front and a front and a rear in the rear.) What is the difference between the front and rear stock springs and how can I know? If I check the diameter of the spring material with a caliper, two of the springs are about .420 and the other two are about .450. Which is which? Thanks. PS It is a 1973 240Z. Jake

Old school Toyotas like RWD corollas, carinas, coronas, celicas, and supras are always cheap reliable and fun. I used to have a 1980 TE72 corolla with a 1.8 liter "3T-C" pushrod hemi, equal length headers, crower cam and dual 40mm mikuni side drafts. I had the rare model with four round headlights, everyone swore it was a Datsun 510, and it was quick enough to beat most civics. Oh and I paid $400, it had 310K miles. I drove it 100 miles out to ocotillo wells, off roaded it (my friend was with me off roading his BMW 320i- it was a sight to see!) and drove it 100 miles back with absolutely no protest from the car whatsoever. I even jumped it a few times when I was out in the desert- no problem. The sheet metal might be flimsy but the mechanicals are bulletproof. Jake

Seized the L28 carb'd motor in my 73 240Z this weekend. Wondering what is a fair price to pay for a complete turbo L28 swap. Complete meaning everthing from the oil pan to the turbo to the transmission to the ECU to the wiring harness. What would be a good price for a good condition used pull, and what would be a good price for a refurbished motor with a 60 day warranty? I have searched for this and have found some things but nothing definitive. I am not necessarily looking for the deal of the century- i need to get the car up and running ASAP so if I have to pay a little extra to do so thats not a problem. thanks in advance Jake