zcarnut
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Posts posted by zcarnut
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280zx calipers and discs? This is essentially the maxima bracket?
-Ugly
Yes. Use the late 280ZX stuff (1982-83) with the bracket.
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I’ll second what bluezx said. The steering columns of the ZX’s are all the same. The transition point is at the rubber steering coupler.
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Not my diagram, but it should get you started.
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Anyone have ideas? I can't be the only one!
I've used the Lokar one (with mods) on a 240Z:
http://lokar.com/product-descriptions/univ-ebrake-cables.htm
But's it is expensive.
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I was referring to the braided SS lines. The fittings don't fit the stock Z brackets with the U shaped clips to hold them in...
Jon;
The Earl’s PN 640603 metric fitting I used on my SS flex lines does indeed fit into the stock location with the OEM clip.
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Problem solved:
Jay;
It's looks like you have made some spare bushings. Any thought about selling a couple? I've got two 200SX calipers I'd like to save from my "scap metal box".
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For some reason he needed the crank attached to the flywheel to balance the flywheel, he did know that the it is internally balanced. Since I did not know why, I added it.
Sounds familiar. The automotive machine shop I have used for several L6 rebuilds cannot rotate (spin) the L series harmonic damper or flywheel by themselves (because they’re not small-block Chevy parts). They need something to bolt them to that they can rotate, hence the crankshaft is needed as well.
The flywheel (or harmonic damper) balancing procedure is to first balance the crankshaft with clay or bob weights, then mount the flywheel and check for imbalance. If necessary the flywheel is balanced. Then the pressure plate is then added and balanced as needed. If the machinist is good then he will also insist on checking the damper as well for imbalance.
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I made my own with Earl’s Performance fittings. Cost per side came to $22.36.
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Thanks for the reply, Steve. Other than this, have you been satisfied with the Ansens?
It was not my car. I was installing bigger front brakes on a friend’s 260Z when we encountered the interference issue.
Personally, I think these Ansen wheels look great on the S30’s. Very retro.
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...If I don't want to use a spacer, can the wheel ID be opened up by hand (say with a Dremel tool), or is there too much material that needs to be removed to do it that way?
The amount of material to be removed is not much, but I like to do things “correctlyâ€, so if I was going to enlarge the opening I would have a machine shop do it. This would reduce any possible wheel imbalance a hand operation might cause.
But if you insist on doing it yourself, then use an air driven die-grinder loaded with a 1/4†end mill bit.
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So is there still a valving benefit from swapping to the 15/16th ZX MC? I can get one pretty cheap (without the reservoirs ... do they swap over from the 75 z master??)
No “valving†benefit, just a firmer brake pedal, especially with disc brakes. Only the 1979-81 ZX master will fit your booster and your reservoirs will likewise only fit on the 1979-81 ZX master. However, it is not recommended that you use the smaller size reservoir designed for the drum brakes when you change over to disc brakes due to the larger fluid requirement of the calipers compared to the drum cylinders.
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John is correct…. The S30 Z car brake systems do not use a residual check valve to maintain a minimum pressure in the rear brake drum circuit. Rather, the rear drum brake wheel cylinder lip seals are spring loaded against the cylinder walls to prevent leaks.
Yes, there are check valves in the Z car master cylinder, but these are very low pressure (1 to 2psi) valves that just prevent the brake fluid from being siphoned out the master cylinder reservoirs in the event that the master cylinder is at, or below, the height of the calipers (which could occur when you are parked on an incline). These anti-siphoning valves are used in both the front and the rear brake fluid circuits.
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Shhhhhish!! So its 5 lug hubs 84- 87?? Oh man I hope I have the right rotors.
That is the 1984-87 5-lug rotor in the photo. So, you're halfway there.
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What 300zx are the one in your pict from? Even though the guy I got mine from is giving my money back he still claims they are for a 88 Turbo 300zx. I thought I read here that all 84-89 5 lug 300zx hubs were the same.
No. The 1988 and '89 turbo hubs (and rotors) are different. That's what you got.
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...From what I understand the 84 300zx NA use 4 lug and the Turbos use 5 lug. Does anyone know if they are the same diameter...
For either the Turbo (5-lug) or the non-turbo (4-lug), on the 1984 Z31 the rotor diameters are the same (front or rear).
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bj, read what I wrote….I said 260Z not 240Z….I don’t know how the 1973 240Z electric fuel pump retrofit circuit functioned but I am aware of how the 1974 260Z electric fuel pump circuit functions. If you don’t believe what I said then maybe you might believe what Nissan wrote.
Here’s what the 1974 260Z service manual, section EF Fuel System, page EF-7 says:
Electric Pump Operation
This system controls the operation of the electric fuel pump according to the engine speed. It receives the engine speed information from a voltage generated by the voltage regulator. When the engine is running below 400 rpm, the electric fuel pump cut relay #1 remains OFF and the pump will not be operated. While cranking the engine, the electric fuel pump relay #2 remains OFF and the pump will not be operated.
Under normal engine running conditions, both the electric pump and the mechanical pump are operated.
As an owner of a 260Z I can verify that the electric fuel pump is on while the engine is running. Its “humming†sound is very evident.
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The factory return system was there to assist with clearing vapors from the lines as close to the carbys as possible. The original electric pump was there to clear the vapors and quit working once the engine started up. The mechanical pump was the only operating pump while the engine was running….
Well on the 260Z both the mechanical fuel pump and the electric fuel pump work while the engine is running. During start-up (engine cranking) the electric pump is disabled, although I am puzzled by why the factory did this.
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I don't think packing the whole strut housing with grease is warranted or a very good idea. A good slathering of grease on each bearing is really all you need. I have to wonder if PACKING the strut housing might cause a leak especially as the bearings get hot.
I don't disagree with your thinking, Jon. Grease will expand with heat and if there's too much then it will leak past the seals. However, the factory service manual does tell you to "fill the center (strut) portion with grease" during assembly".
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I saw two rear struts from a 240Z ITS race car that were drilled for a grease fitting. Of course (in your situation) the drilling operation may introduce metal shavings into the grease cavity.
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I also had an unpleasant eBay transaction with this clown. I won two auctions from him, an underhood label and a set of spark plug wire looms. He sent me two PayPal bills for the transactions and the shipping charge for the label was $10 and the shipping for the looms was a surprising $20. I asked him to combine the shipments into one box and re-quote and so he sent me a bill that had a $30 shipping charge (!). WTF. We eventually agreed at a $10 shipping charge and he sent both my items in a regular sized envelope and the actual postage was like 95¢.
I won an auction from him for a "brand new old stock early type 240z center console". I was happy paying the little extra because I thought it was worth it for my project since I have sourced out everything else new for the interior(not an easy task). When I got it, it was new all right, but it was not an original. It was a cheap repop made out of fiberglass, almost 1/2 inch thick in some places and 3/8 thick for the rest. It was not the nice pretty original one in the picture on the add, I even had to cut out the ash tray hole and the choke/hazard switch plate hole. But technically it was new, and it did fit the original early type parts, so you know how that goes. I can supply pictures if anyone cares to see them.That’s sounds like the console he bought from me. I originally bought an early 240Z reproduction console from Motorsport Auto several years ago for $150. I stored it (unopened) in its shipping box for about two years (until I needed it) and when I finally opened the box to install it I discovered that it was a rather poor reproduction. Disgusted, I put it on eBay with full disclosure of it’s condition and as a result it sold for the opening bid of only $45. Reddat was the only bidder.
A few weeks later I noticed he was selling a “new†early 240Z console for almost $300. The listing implied that it was a NOS part and none of the problems with the console were mentioned. Maybe it was a coincidence? But I don’t think so….
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...I don't have a/c. …
Guys, don’t confuse 7MGFORCE.
The non-AC 260Z’s do not have (or need) the vacuum operated heater duct doors. It uses cables for everything.
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This pretty much sums up my feelings about Xmas....
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Some of my 1960’s favorites:
Tomorrow Never Knows, Lucy In The Sky With Diamonds and Strawberry Fields Forever - The Beatles
Eight Miles High - The Byrds
Jimi Hendrix - Are you Experienced?
21st Century Schizoid Man - King Crimson
Also, several songs by Spirit and Quicksilver Messenger Service and most of the early Yes albums (although they are really a 1970’s era group).
1977 200sx parts
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Give Roger a call at the Z Barn which is located just south of Knoxville.
http://www.zbarn.com/
He has a near complete 1977 (or maybe it's a '78) 200SX he's parting out.