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Geno750

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Everything posted by Geno750

  1. That's the turbo I wanted to go with (or EFR8374). Couldn't pass up the S364sxe deal, but it's going to be a laggy bastard.
  2. It's probably due to how ABS was done on the R32's (4.36) and it was done via the drive shaft side, the diff on those cars is slightly longer to accommodate the sensor. Any plans for that 4.36 final?
  3. I ordered clamps and an inlet coupler when I bought the turbo, but if I somehow break them I'll shoot you a message. I'm not looking forward to drilling this stainless crap, but I've got a friend with access to tungsten carbide bits and a press so hopefully they work. Going to be cutting the transmission mounting ears off the unibody next then shove the trans up and see what I'll need to make for a mount. Should be a fun weekend.
  4. Yeah it's the 4" inlet version. In thinking if I redrill the hole for the driver's side mount I can take care of a little of the lean.
  5. Finally got a chance to work on the car. Looks like I'm in the same boat Seattlejester and a few others were in with the CXracing mounts. The best part is even with the shift, my slightly bigger than I should have bought turbo fits.
  6. With a crimping tool and a Deutsche 8pin connector you can build your own harness. The downside to the IGN1A is each coil is about $75, so $450 in just coils alone makes alternatives cheaper every time.
  7. Nope, I just bought the bracket. When you buy the AEM coils they come with plug kits. I'm building my own harnesses so this was better for my situation. The plug wires are from a MSD universal kit.
  8. I've been down your exact path for the most part so I'll share my findings. 1. Turbo choices are abundant and you're on the right path. Personally if you're after a response monster, EFR7670 will be all the turbo you'll need, you could even go 7163 and hit 500whp. The costs are even between them and the GTX mostly due to internal gates on the EFR making manifolds cheaper (Suprastore) and you don't have to buy an EWG. 2. Your transmission and rear end choice match very closely to the 350Z so no worries there. Clutch options are cheap too. 3. ECU choices are usually no longer limited to the engine but what your local tuners are proficient with, unless you're tunning it yourself. Also I wouldn't over think the body wiring too much, the cars are simple electrically and a painless/ez wire kit can take care of everything. 4. Go with stainless steel internal (E85 compatible) Bosch EV-14 type injectors, tons of companies offering them. I have donkey power (yes really) 1300cc injectors. DW are fine and have come a long way, I'd buy them if I was in the market. 5. This kinda ties into the ECU deal as well, but yes DBW eliminates the need for an IACV. The trick is getting the pedal and throttle to work with the ECU. Drift motion has this down pretty well if you go with an AEM infinity. Not sure on ECU Master's. 6. I'm using IGN1A's, they're awesome. There's a Facebook based company that makes a bracket for mounting them that comes with hardware. The induction performance one doesn't but McMaster Carr solves that problem.
  9. They're considered to be some of the best you can get. Had a set in my 180SX and they were amazing.
  10. Looks like it's a complete spindle replacement, so no welding. Video:
  11. It's probably due to the cat hump in the trans tunnel on all the later model Z's. Mine is a 77 so I'll likely be bashing away at the hump or cutting it out.
  12. Nice. I'm 6'3" and a novice welder as well. I'm probably going to try and cram a pair of Corbeau Evolution X seats in my car. My logic is they were designed to go in Corvettes, and Corvette seats fit in our cars. Nice progress though. I finally finished building my engine so now it's time to put it in the bare chassis and start wiring.
  13. These guys are my usual go to when looking for conversion fittings. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=PLUMBING
  14. Honestly I'd look at the flow rate of your turbo and get injectors to match. Each lb/min of flow = 12cc of injector (16cc for e85). This is the easy way to do it. Example: 60lb/min of airflow capable turbo. 60x12cc = 720cc injectors 60x16cc = 960cc injectors (e85)
  15. I'm in a similar boat and have been researching the final drive options available. I've got a abs R200 vlsd from my 180sx and an open R200 diff. I've also got a helical from an S15 Silvia sitting here as well, and can swap it into either one. Honestly, I wouldn't worry that much about 6th gear, the other 5 (well, 1-3 and 5, 4th is always 1.00) are the important ones. If you've got one of the transmissions with a 2.66 first and 1.78 second I'd use the 4.6 final.
  16. I've done it to a SR20, which is the same process. You'll mill the bellhousing down about .375-.5 inches to account for the adapter plate. Then you'll use whatever RB25 clutch you want since input shaft splines are the same across both cars. The tricky part is the throw out bearing. Nissan's are very similar in the diameter of the bearing but tob lengths vary widely. The best place for specific answers would be Collins, as he offers the best kits for this swap. Good luck.
  17. Finished the engine. Taking the AC compressor back off and will revisit AC after the car is more complete.
  18. So during a friendly basketball game some genius decided to get nut to butt against me as I jumped up for a rebound. Landed partially on his foot causing mine to roll and break my ankle. Good times. I've managed to finish getting the vvti line done, and started working on spark plug wires. Doing all of this with my knee resting on a chair makes this a slow process though. Checked the fit with the AC compressor and it's good to go.
  19. This. There are quite a few sensor/injector/coil options out there that can widely swing the harness cost. Side question for you though Seattlejester. If you're coming from a 7MGTE, why not use it's CPS in your 2JZ to get away from batch fire?
  20. I've been using my AHP alpha Tig for almost two years now, it's been a great unit for $600.
  21. I didn't like paying for them. At a little over $65 a piece it sucked. However they are strong and very reliable. I've used them on my SR20 a long time ago and they were great. The only thing I've seen with Audi coils was while I had a large Audi dealer on my route when I slung tools for Snap-on. Tons of cars were in there with dead coils.
  22. That's cheap for 6 coils. Are they smart coils or do you need an ignitor? I saw enough about the cracked coil issue I just went with IGN1A's. Not having a coil pack cover for my head also helped since the bracket to mount them replaces the cover and it was cheaper.
  23. Those were actually the included bolts with the spacer. They were the right length so I went with them out of convenience more than anything.
  24. Spent more time working on the TB conversion. I noticed the holes in the spacers were .25" in diameter, which is the size you want when installing a M6x1.0 helicoil. So I went that route instead of drilling everything out to M8 not sizes. It worked perfectly.
  25. I'm planning a cell for my car as well, and my research echo's jester's, and that having it in the car is not ideal. Just filling it will cause the interior to smell like fuel for a bit, which isn't fun either. I want to do a cell that's more rectangular with an angled filler neck towards the right side. This would let one plumb it to the factory filler location.
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