mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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Ok, I went out with the calipers and did some measuring. The numbers I came up with look like spicer part number 2-2-1899 will work. Interesting that I measured the flange dia. to be 4.06 and this part shows 4.08(shouldn't matter?) Also, I measured the pilot dia. to be 1.969 and this part shows 1.968 Its probably a dumb question but will a thousandth matter here? I actually can't tell re-measuring it if it is 1.968 or 1.969
It looks like spicer part number 2-2-1819 matches my measurements closer, but shows a joint angle of 30?? I guess I'll try to order the 1899 part and see how it matches up, unless you have any heads up here.
Bryan
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Myself, I would rather drive the log skidder to town and run over a few cars. Now that would be fun!!!
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Has anyone found an adapter for the 300z type round input flange on the diff to chevy type u-joint? I am not interested at this point in swapping the input flange so I can use the neapco adapter. If I can't find anything I will just use a 300z driveshaft to build upon, but someone told me that the u-joint on the 300z driveshaft was welded in?? Anyone have more info on this?
Thanks
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I've seen mention on a website about installing braces from the tranny to the diff in order to reduce body twisting. Is anyone running braces like this? Could this kind of bracing be used instead of heavier framerails for "daily driving"? Just looking for ideas since this seems like more of a bolt on solution vs a welding adventure with the frame rails, sub frame connectors. I didn't dig up much searching for this and have not seen many other people mention it.
Bryan
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I had planned to fab my own mount for the front of the diff. I have the LSD diff and it has the 300z input flange which doesn't work with the front diff mount. I could just swap out that front flange, but if I am making new mounts whats the difference. Unless that limits my options on u-joint compatibility for the driveshaft??
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Always the issue of room under there, well I was just curious what the thought was. I'll think it over when I'm staring under there at the minimal space. If I end up with side pipes, which I think looks nice on Z's (except for the clearence issues), then maybe it will free up a small amout of room near the tunnel.
Bryan
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I can tell you the best way NOT to do it!!! I picked one up from the machine shop and tossed in the back of my volkswagen rabbit. Then I was crankin thru town at about 50mph and the guy in front of me stopped at a yellow light.
Not a problem most of the time, but when I stood on the brakes that engine came up front with me. Yep, it toppled the back seat right over. I didn't get hurt, but it was the last engine block I hauled in the rabbit. mobythevan
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I figure I'll leave the engine and tranny in, then I can weld an extension from the drive shaft to the rotisserie. Then I can just fire up the car and have a cool carnival ride. Kids in the neighborhood would probably pay a couple bucks to go for a spin
Just go fast over the top so the engine doesn't die
mobythevan
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Yeah, I'm gonna do the sub frame connectors and put an 8 point roll cage in. I plan to put the car on a rotisserie after I remove the rest of the drivetrain. Shouldn't be long before it goes on the rotisserie. Can't wait to get started, but my wife wants to move before summer:( , so we'll see how that affects the time I'll have.
mobythevan
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So I finally took a couple pics of the humble beginning of my V8 conversion. Got my mig welder in also. Got the JTR manual. So now its phase 1, rust repair and frame rebuild. I'll take pics as I go along for the webpage. Wish me luck....
http://www.geocities.com/moby_the_van/240z.html
mobythevan
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I didn't think about only being able to make ~30 degree bends with the harbor freight type. Good call. In 240z Turbo's pics of his roll cage, he doesn't show a pic of the overhead bar. The rest of the bars in his cage are straight or close to. Thats too bad because those benders are on sale for $70 right now. I think there may be other ways I can get a roll cage constructed with only 30 degree angles. Thats what I'll tell myself all the way to the hospital.
mobythevan
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I checked into it, $149 for the 8 point cage. But shipping to me is $89 plus $8 handling. I am thinking I will just buy the pipe bender from harbor freight for $100 and make my own. It says the tubing is notched on the jegs cage. Just curious if somebody bought one yet and could comment on the installation.
mobythevan
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This evening I pulled my r180 out the 240z. It is the type with the center bolts that hold the stub axles. While it was setting there I decided to weigh it for fun. Driveshaft, r180 with grease(and stubs) and the mustache bar weighed ~80 pounds. So I weighed my r200lsd(no grease) with stub axles... 80 pounds. The new mustache bar from 280z weighed about 8 pounds. Sorry if I am boring you, but I thought it was interesting. So I am looking at 8 pounds heavier plus the weight of my new driveshaft with is not built yet. Also, the lsd diff is wider than the r180. Measuring width at the stub flanges. So I guess my current half shafts will be too long, unless they compress enough to allow this. Looked to be about 3/4 inch wider.
mobythevan
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update, went and picked up the r200 LSD today, along with the mustache bar and r200-open output shafts. I saw mention in some older posts about someone selling a replacement rear brace that works with the finned diff cover. Anyone still doing this? If not I'll fab one up. I'm not going to swap an r200-open input flange to this diff because I have to get a drivshaft built anyway. So I'm just going to have the drive shaft built to bolt directly to the existing input flange on the r200 LSD.
I'm in business, not I just have to get all of the welding done.
mobythevan
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Yeah, I can get the r200 LSD from the guy, and he has the 280z mustache bar for r200, and the 280z stubs for the r200. He only wants $25 for the stubs in addition, so I think I'll try those first. then i may upgrade to the cv halfshafts if breakage is an issue. Thanks for the pointers.
mobythevan
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Ok, before anyone beats me up too bad...
I did search and read all of the posts on swapping r200 into the 240z (in place of r180). The only thing that wasn't crystal clear to me from the search is the half shaft stubs. I found an r200 LSD unit, but it is just the pumpkin. It does not have any half shafts or the stubs that mount to the half shafts. So, the simple question: will my r180 half shaft stubs swap into the r200 LSD pumpkin? BTW, it is a 72 240z and the r200 LSD is from an 88 turbo. Just want to make sure before i fork out the dough and get the r200 home.mobythevan
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You bet I'm going with the small block chevy. I've got 2 four bolt blocks sitting in the garage and an old 327 small journal block. I had always dreamed of building the fast revving 302 trans am motor, but I think a 383 would be a lot more fun. So I am thinking a ~400hp build on a 383 will do it up nice. Probably go with a 700r4 tranny.
I like the subtle z body kit. Not quite sure if thats what I want yet.
mobythevan
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Well, I've been wanting to do a V8 conversion for a few years. So I bought a 72 240z for $500. Now I've got to buy a welder and get busy. It has the usual floorpan rust and framerail rust. So first off I've got to fix that and beef up the frame a little. This forum is great, I have learned many things from reading old posts. The car has a L26 engine in it right now and the 4 speed tranny. I will be yanking those out and selling them off.
I am sure you'll be hearing from me as I get into this project full blast.
mobythevan
Not a problem most of the time, but when I stood on the brakes that engine came up front with me. Yep, it toppled the back seat right over. I didn't get hurt, but it was the last engine block I hauled in the rabbit. 
LSD 300z yoke flange
in Drivetrain
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After talking to the local driveline place I had them order the spicer 2-2-1819 part. I'll post the results. If he can't get that part he is going to order the 2-2-1899. We'll see what fits and I'll let you guys know. The differences between these two parts seem trivial. He explained that the joint angle listed should be the maximum angle allowed for the u-joint not to bind. He wasn't sure why they listed 0 angle for the 1899 part unless there chart was missing info. Both of these parts use the 1310 series u-joint.
Bryan