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Posts posted by G.I.jonas
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Here is a pic of the color. Its off of a 350z yes its purple but i think it will work nicely.
Then all you will need is some sunglasses and blond highlights to go with it
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Thats actually kinda a joke between a few of my friends and me. They say that every time it breaks i upgrade it so they say that about every 2 weeks i break something and then i upgrade and come back out with my car and say "well its faster now" lol
Might as well paint the jambs while your at it
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"OTM's OTC-TIG"...nice looks pretty friggin sweet.How much ??
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It took a few cus words to take it apart but unfortunately I ran out of cuss words to put it back together.
Sounds like it was a sock tucker to deal with!
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Oh i agree that they have uses and i have used them many times,however there came a time in my life when i no longer needed to weld cracked rusty dumpsters and tractor wheels back together:mrgreen:
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Perhaps if it wasn't a stick welder!
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G..I, what % of the lacquer thinner are you using per coat?
Honestly my best results come from thinning by eye,i can tell by how many bubbles are made by letting it run off the mixing stick!
I thin it quite a bit as the stuff is quite thick,probably about 2:1 at least in my gun.
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Try running a buffer over it,it will look like day one!Rustoleum is cheap for a reason. I painted my trailer with rustoleum about 6 years ago, it's a trailer so I didn't care. It used to be gloss white. It's not so glossy now.
Perhaps to an extent that no one will ever really realize.Done properly I.E. primed well and given a couple good coats of finish this wont be a problem.Plus flat paints tend to increase the probability of corrosion forming underneath. Z's don't need another reason to rust.
No,if you do that and buff it it will be gloss!! That is the biggest problem with flat paint:if you dont get it right after spraying then you are screwed since you cant buff it without losing the flatness.On a small scale what makes flat flat is the fact that it is slightly textured,if you flatten it out you have defeated the purpose.also, due flat colors need to be wet sanded?And just remember,Rustoleum is an alkyd enamel,essentially what cars were painted with back in the day - only probably better.Do it and do it right,you will be happy in the end and you wont have to pay a body shop like $6000 for something thats in the end worth about $100 more in actual function.And no im not just talking out my rear,i used to be a body guy who spent days applying PPG worth hundreds per gallon,and now im here telling you to go to the hardware store for paint lol.
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I have done this many times.Rustoleum is excellent for painting cars if done right,and its quite easy.You can use acetone or lacquer thinner,i prefer lacquer thinner myself as it flows out before drying where acetone will flash much faster.Seeing as you are in socal i would use lacquer thinner,however in attempt to get a good flat look acetone may suit you better.One thing i will say with confidence is DONT use mineral spirits!!,yes it reduces the paint well but you will be waiting weeks for it to dry giving lots of time for dust, bugs and whatnot to get in there,as opposed to like a few hours or overnight at the worst.
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Good luck with it!,i can help for as far as i got,but beyond that you are on your own.
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Offensive vulgarity is sweet! just my .02
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RB26 sexy, expensive, more difficult than the other two, most likely out of my price range.. RB25 not as sexy, still a great motor, but a better then a 2jz??
This statement may stir some debate / flaming here!
I'm not sure why you think the rb is going to inherently be more expensive than the 2jz done right,nor is it inherently better.Better is a relative thing and is kind of a word thats frowned upon by the hybrid community,what is best is whats best to you,i personally would have the toyota in my car long before i would ever even look at an rb,but thats just me.
Anywho,your title is crap as well but welcome to the forum!
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$600 should just about cover gas money for a few hours.
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Things like this should be stickyed,or at least included in another one,ideally all of hybridz will eventually be one enormous sticky
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My question is should I just do my own wiring or is the painless harness a good way to go?
Both!!
Even for making your own harness,a painless i a good way to start,if that makes sense?.The wire quality and the time saved by the individual labeling are worth the money alone,besides have you priced copper wire nowadays??.Even if you run the wires for things other than what the label says you can track things later as long as you document what you've done.....Oh yea - IMO
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ooking for some A/C components. mostly expansion valve and evap. Thanks
Sorry,got no a/c stuff.
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Bump,ok sorry guys i guess i was anticipating more interest.If i get more requests i will definitely get my tools together and go out ripping...anyone?
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sorry to sound like such a noob with the questions and all, I just read it, and was like "wow" lol, anyway, I've found a place 30 miles south of where I live that will do the complete RB26 swap for a total of $6,000, and include a gaurantee with it, this includes a tranny installed with it as well, the reason why I was asking is because I wanted to know if the awd MAY be a cheaper conversion, because I know that the install they'd do would be with the rb26 custom mated to the gts25 5-speed tranny which is more pricey than the standard rb26 that comes with the 6-speed, and believe me, I'd rather have the 6-speed, the difference between the rb26 with the 6-speed, and the rb26 with the 5-speed gts25 tranny is around $2,600 (the rb with the 6-speed being $3,700, and the 5-speed being $6,300. So with the difference between them, the $2,600, would that be enough for a drivetrain conversion? I know it would be a whole ton of work, and would involve a whole lot of moving components underneath, and would probably smarter to go the route I've already planned on, but the awd would just be awesome bragging rights, not to mention performance. I appreciate the info so far, but I'm not sure the sti is the right route for me, I like the cars (believe me, I do) but I've got 10K to work with, and with that, this could accomplish an amazing Z, or as the english say, Zed, lol
I think the short answer here that you are looking for is no....hell no!!
Do a search on this board for "awd" or "subaru".If your thinking AWD in a z then you should also be thinking - custom made everything, from cross members and control arms to suspension and axles,hubs brakes you name it,it will have to be made from scratch or heavily modified.
Then when you are done you will have to test it out and realize that half of the 20k you just spent has to be altered or changed all together to make it actually good for more than bragging rights.Trust me i have looked into it and read all of what really smart people have to say about awd z cars,there are like 2 such vehicles known and that is for good reason!!
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well it does need to be done right,im not talking about the whole paint brush and or roller technique
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urethane is the newest and best paint product
Very true,as long as you mean second to rustoleum
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Done...
Damn,not even that can alleviate the disco revival, hideous 80's, abomination look of the vette interior.
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Sorry about that. For some reason, I did not see that there were other pages to the thread. Just not used to the format here. But, I will be. Looks like there is a load of information here.
Thanks for the reply anyhow.
No problem,didnt mean to rag on ya.
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Remember that guy Ted Kaczinsky?? i'd be following his lead at this point.
My Free Widebody Project
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Wow you guys have thought about this a lot more than me for some time! I hate to regret that for the moment this project is on the shelf...the way back shelf with mouse turds and dead june bugs on it.The only comfort i can offer is that it is not being sold.I may be getting back to it once im done with my landcruiser but that will be a while.
That said i appreciate all comments and i take all suggestions seriously.When i get back to it there will be some alterations made and the car WILL look amazing,however aside from changes to the rear im afraid major alterations wont happen.Not only is it more or less what im looking for (and you would appreciate the curves more in person too) but some of you may not realize that seemingly small changes can equate to 50-60 or more hours of work,just to alter a few small lines!
I promise to update when things start to happen but i have a new (old) love at the moment and im not turning back on it.hopefully you all will still be here when that happens