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HybridZ

schema

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  • Birthday 12/14/1984

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  1. If its a polished lip, you're SOL. Otheriwise, as mentioned, a filler then paint. I've seen plenty of people use body filler, but the JB Weld make more sense.
  2. Thanks Bill! Next Friday I payday, gotta stock up on some more 16ga for the floors then these bad boys are on their way in Hey Cable Srv, saw your website, got a couple q's on your frame rails. I saw you used 2.5x.1.5. I'm not sure if it's different on the 240's ( I have a 280) but my front rails measured 2.5x2.5, then under the floors were 2.5 wide by 1.25 tall. Will having 1.5 tall front rails misalign anything? Also, I saw you added some cross members along where the trans tunnel is Will that actually end up behind the transmission/under the drive shaft? I may actually copy that idea Just don't want to run in to any problems. Any other tips appreciated!
  3. Mother's Day Update!!! Whip out your razorblade folks, it's time for a shave So, originally I was going to put the car on a rotissarie to replace the frame rails. But because I'm cutting the the rails AND floors out now, there was no need to flip it over, so I decided to go ahead and finish up shaving the bumper today. Damn glad I didn't use the bumper mounts to hold the weight. Theses things were rusted to ♥♥♥♥! Left side. Pulled the bumper mounts out and tossed 'em. Then made a template. This is where I ended up making a TON more work for myself. Pics below..... Cut out. Welded in. See those tiger scratches. Yeah. I had to friggin mangle the piece to shape it right because I gave it a rough shape before putting it in. Right after I spent 2 hours doing this I finally discovered why it was such a pita to fit right. At the very bottom of the bumper, it curves inward at about a 35 degree angle, like a reverse lip. I put that lip in the new piece before I welded anything in. Bad idea. It prevented me from bending the metal along the bottom in the other direction. Lesson learned. The right side took about 1/4 of the time to complete, and even came out better. Right side ready to go. Forgot to take a pic of it cut out, but you get the idea. Left side done , after grinding, grinding, and more grinding. Blah! Right side done. Piece of friggin cake Pure beauty. I Love it! I have a rinky dink hole left that i'll patch up in 15 min, but after spending 4 hours just on that left side, and under an hour on the right, I was done for the day
  4. Hrmm, you just made me think of something. I'm going to throw the doors back on when I do this. Might be an easy way to keep track of any changes, and adjust when needed,where needed. Good thought!
  5. Thanks Bill, I'll look up your thread momentairaly. as mentioned, the car is just the frame, when I say frame, there isn't a bolt left to unscrew, or interior piece to take out. No gas tank,diff, engine,nadda. One big solid piece. (scroll to the bottomto see the rails/where I'm at now: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119866)
  6. Whelp, I made my own frame rails,and making new floor board, which means I really don't need to flip the car over. With that said, when I remove the floors and rails, how can I sufficiently and safely suspend the car? My plan is to cut the floors, cut the old rails, weld in new rails, lay new 16ga sheet metal floors in (using the new rails as welding points, completing the floor, then going under the car to finshin securing the rails to the new floors. So, where do I move the jacks to? The rear jacks are tucked somewhere over a cross member where the diff was, so that's fine, but the fronts are sitting on the rails, I was thinking I can run the jacks to the strut towers (car is bare frame by the way) but I'm afraid of sagging or simply not being able to support the front end. Any ideas? How did some of you guys set it up?
  7. Ha, I've seen this guy while flipping through a friends myspace, he's from Dansville NY, and he dresses in a bunch of costumes. Ahwell, cool car though:tongue:
  8. 5-6-07 update: Got a teensy bit done tonight, busy day. Here we are at the driver's side rear quarter. As mentioned, I have a full passenger side replacement on order from Tabco, and this is the side that was worth keeping ( I can fix this in less time vs what I would have to work to order a new one) This seriously took me all of 15 min to do. Anywho, I cut out the cancer; It's hammer time. Pounded the piece flat and traced on to 18ga sheet metal: Getting the fitting right. Since there were no lines to go from on the bottom half, I gave it a rouch shaped and trimmed as needed. Used VERY light hammer taps to get the shape absolutely perfect. Then tack'd in place. Badda bing badda boom. I'll come back to this when I have less to do and pretty it up. As mentioned, the goal is to use as little body filler as humanly possible. Here you can clearly see the cancer on the bottom of the wheel arch. Even though it has completely rusted away, the rest of the panel is almost perfect. Since there is no existing metal left, I don't have any reference to where the lines will end up, so when the passenger side comes in, I'll make a reverse teplate and fabb up a replacement for this side. On to the frame rails. Got a few pieces welded together. It'snice to finally play with thicker steel so I can ramp up the voltage and actually make some nice penny welds instead of "tack here, tack there, tack here again" with the sheet metal Lay'd up Whoop. Almost done!!! I ran out of gas, again ( anyone else think I need a bigger tank;) ) but the night was over anyway. I may be sol for a while till I get my argon refilled, the earliest I can get it is NEXT Saturday due to my work hours.
  9. I'm in! I'd HATE to tear this one apart, but I'll buy another, and this sounds litoo fun to pass up June 30th? I'll get started !!!
  10. 5-4-06 update Got a little more done at the shop. Shaving the rear bumper, repair inside door jam, starting on frame rails. I WISH I took pictures of what this looked like before I got the new metal in place. There was a 4 inch wide strip of RUST across the entire bumper. It didnt look like it was even worth keeping. The areas around the bumper give you and idea, but yea, it was BAD. Tacked in to place: Rear Shot: Shitty picture, but welds were grinded down and polished smooth. Looks f'in awesome, can't wait to get to the other areas. The reason I didn't do it all is because I still may need those bumper mounts if/when it gets on the rotissarie. Once it's back down, the shock will be recessed and a steel bar will be bolted to them behind the bumper. Just a snapshot, all the bluish metal was where I worked on, the entire area was one big rust hole. Cut and shaped, still gotta polish it up. Damn, I gotta remember to take before pictures, these don't do it justice Now, on to the frame rail, I measured/cut the steel tubing I'll be using for this, now I had to work on the joint piece to tie them together. I <3 cardboard and painters tape Finally, at 1am, I decided to go home. All this was about 5 hours of work. The template was laid down, few pieces cut, my ass was TIRED. This weekend I'll have both rails made and ready to go. I've decided to cut the floorpans, weld these in, then put brand new floors in with 16 ga metal. Gotta get a rotissarie and bead roller, so chances are I'll prepare as much as possible then wait till I can get both to finish the job. In the mean time, stay tuned for dollying up the driver's rear quarter, a full sheet metal replacement quarter (on order now) and two new 18ga rocker panels __________________
  11. Had the neighbors come over today to help on the Z. Today's focus was on the passenger floor. Yesterday I finished the corner on the rear of the car,but forgot the camera, so here's a snapshot. Not much more to complete it. And here's what was on today's menu. The flap of metal hanging down was actually RIVETED over the rust metal, then slapped with undercoating. Tards. This is about the only picture you'll ever see of me doing work Cutting out the floor pan. Lots of rust. We pushed cardboard paper in to the floorboard and made a template to trace on 16 ga metal. Roughly shaped to be put in (no not by the hammer this time!) Trial fitting. Test fit, few adjustments made Got the top part and bottom corners tacked in. The bottom center needs to be bowled in to line up correctly, and the metal the will be welding to the right edge needs to be replaced before the floor is completely in. this was about 3-4 hours of work, and we all headed home. More to follow tomorrow night
  12. Had my neighbors come with me to the shop tonight to use the last of the argon before I refill it tomorrow: I've decided to leave the rear of the car alone for a bit as I'm going to scrap the two rear quarter panels and but new replacements, so,on to the front of the car. Started cutting out all the rust spots. Make cardboard templates, welded in new 18ga metal. Tacked everything in then ran out of gas,but I'll have it refilled tomorrow morning. (opposite view from above) The top of the car was brought to bare metal, painted with etching primer. Quarter was brought down to bare metal, then decided to scrap it, new ones cost $70ish, not worth the fabbing time. Trial fit Neighbor Eric at the grinding wheel Neighbor Greg exposing any potential rust (good so far on the driver side!) he also did all the cutting of the body Passanger side rust tacked in Driver side tacked in Ran out of gas at this point. The following days I'll grind down the welds and finish them up. The next thing to tackle is the lower rocker panels. During this I'm going to start taking measurements and planning for completely cutting out the frame rails and welding in nice,thick square tubing. I'm going to be pretty cautious about this part, because if I can screw up badly, this is where it can happen. Stay tuned!
  13. Haven't got much done, nowadays when i have the extra time, been trying to get my fat ass to the gym, but making progress. Fuzzy Pic. Rail welded in, smoothed, then the tack welds you see are little pin holes left over from grinding. The seam was right on the bend, smoothed and shiny Not sure what this piece was called, but it was rusted Made a cardboard paper template and tack welded the pieces for fitting Ran out of gas, Next week I'll weld it in, shape it up, and smooth it out.
  14. Eeek, guess the typical Z owner is a hot head, not the kind of replies I expected. That is a good suggestion, and it's what I did before posting here. The funny thing is, I can't seem to take measurements for metal that doesn't exist. As a Z owner, I'm sure you are well aware of the delights of corrosion. I also didn't think it was THAT bad of an idea to gain input from people who have already done so,as to possibly avoid making any mistakes they may encountered along the way? Thanks bud, and I've actually had his page book marked from some time, just got shuffled along the way. Nope, that's a good card to play. I'm a mod on a local car forum and it's mildly frustrating when the same question gets piled high. I did a seach before this, and pulled up a few pages on where to buy, not making them. If I can clarify, as it seems my simple post has aggitated more than just who has replied here; -"What I said was meant from a person (like myself) who likes to spend the extra time and work to tinker with stuff on their own, to build and fabricate, take pride in their work, know what I mean? It wasn't a shoot down to anybody's work. The time it will take for (me) to make a frame rail won't be as cost effective as buying a premade one, but time enjoyed wasting isn't wasted time." -Me Feel free to delete this entire thread, I know I can make them myself, that was never in question. I was just looking for experienced Z owners who have traveled the same path.
  15. Haha I've had your web page save in my favorites for about a year now, cool to see you on here!
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