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585Z

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    Burleson, Texas

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  1. I just used a Ford speedometer cable. The size and thread pitch is close enough that it started to jam just as it got tight. I am using a world class T-5 with the sensor out of a T-5 meant for a 2.3 litre Ford. I was surprised to find the reading was within two mph at 70. I don't remember where I purchased the cable but it was a standard Ford unit from an aftermarket supplier.
  2. Here are a few suggestions based on the Edelbrock I have on my 351. I have had all these issues in the past with many different engines. 1. These carbs have a weighted plate over the secondaries to allow air to the secondaries only if there is sufficient air flow to pull it open. Check to see if this plate moves freely. 2. The metering rods restrict fuel flow at low rpm of high vacuum. These can be removed from the top with the carb in place. See that these are clean and move freely. 3. You might also check the timing. If the centrifugal weights are stuck you may not be getting enough advance at high rpm. I like to see 25 to 30 degrees total advance at approximately 2500 rpm. I hope this helps Brad
  3. '75 280Z 351 Windsor, .030 over, X cam, Edelbrock heads, 750 Edelbrock carb World Class 5 speed, .68 5th gear 3.54 R200 rear Approx 17.5 mpg mixed city & hwy
  4. 585Z

    5.0 swap

    I just realized that this website is listing the Laine family parts. It appears that it is still active so maybee they are not out of business.
  5. 585Z

    5.0 swap

    I used the Alsil mount for my 351 Ford into a 75 280Z. This was purchased and modified many years ago. The mount kit from Technoversions appears to very similar to the Alsil and Layne family system. http://www.technoversions.com/MotorMatchHome.html I hope this helps, there may also be others available but that is the first one I found.
  6. I had been having trouble locating the under-dash heater valve hoses for my '75 280Z. I finally took the hoses to Autozone and matched them to hoses they had in stock for $15. The right angle hose is Dayco #A70001. Your hoses look a little different but might have luck matching the others like I did. My write-up is on http://www.cowtownzclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104 I hope this helps, Brad
  7. I am using the Edelbrock 5.0 heads and the BBK shorties for the 5.0. They appear to fit well, clearing the steering shaft but a little close on the right side. Brad
  8. I've got alsil's motor mount on my Z with the 351W(not running yet). It is not a direct bolt-in fit. The front sump of the oil-pan will hit the Z's crossmember. The Alsil crossmember was modified to lower the engine 1". This allowed me to slide the engine a little further back. I will have to cut a notch out of the back of the factory crossmember to gain a little clearance. Lowering it also gained enough room to fit a carb and intake under the hood. A future EFI setup may still require a hood mod. My 351 has a dual sump. I am not sure if the Summit setup will allow more clearance in the front but it still may be a good idea to lower the engine. Another advantage of moving the engine back is that the transmission shifter is centered in the original location now. I am running BBK shorty headers. This project was started in 2004 by a friend and I am trying to sort out the parts and finish it. Searching the Ford V8 forum for crossmember will give you several approaches to the 351 conversion. I am trying to bring myself up to speed on all the various techniques now. Brad
  9. Thanks for your ideas I will try to keep this information in mind as I set up the car. On fuel line material? Stainless or Aluminum? I am thinking of buying bulk so I can rout them where I want. I used aluminum on an old Tbird and that is working fine. Space and head was not an issue on that installation. Old cars, Fords especially, had a woven insulation for fuel lines in high heat areas. Has anyone seen a similar insulation available lately? I would like to insulate the fuel lines and brake lines where they are close to the engine or headers.
  10. Thanks for your thoughts on the old lines. I saw several people moving the lines to the outside of the frame rail. This would remove them from the path of the exhaust tubes as well. I noticed that fuel lines are referred to by the outside diameter. I have some new 5/16 line that would be adequate for the return line if I used the 3/8 primary fuel line as you suggest.
  11. I have a '75 280Z with a 351 Ford motor. The motor has aluminum heads, an X303 cam, and shorty headers. I am leaning toward a 750 Edelbrock carb. The installation was done many years ago but never finished. I am trying to decide which possible combinations would be the best. Any ideas or thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated. I have no gas tank at this time. If I purchase a stock gas tank I will have to run the dual exhausts out the drivers side. I could however retain the original fuel lines and brackets. Removing the spare tire well and finding an appropriate tank for the center of the car (like the Lane build) would allow an exhaust and muffler on each side. Would the original fuel lines be adequate to feed this motor? Thanks for your thoughts, Brad
  12. Sorry for the slow response but I just joined the forum. You have probably solved this by now but here is my guess. If the engine is running well at the 35 degree point, I would suspect the outside of the damper has rotated in relation to the center. This would give you a false timing reading. This is fairly common. I usually time my Ford engines by how they run and start versus any timing marks. If the cam timing is off in the fast direction it usually will not run unless it is up around 3K RPM or better. If the cam timing is slow the engine will not move above idle. 280Z/351Ford
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