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Derek

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Everything posted by Derek

  1. In theory the butterfly's should be closed at idle and all of your idle air controlled by the valve. 6 butterflies slightly cracked is not a dependable metering method for the air. It can also build up gunk over time but I doubt that will ever be a problem with Mr " I can eat of my motor because it's so clean" Yes I'm jealous .
  2. Wow I missed this post. Great work Tioga. Very clean.
  3. Then what about the other three I'm going to take my old set and re-cable them. I'll feel safer at this point with that solution.
  4. Well isn't this just the icing on the cake. Worked my ass off all day to get the car back on the road. Backed it out of the shop for a test drive, puled up on the parking brake I feel tension then POP no more brake. Back up on the lift and this is what greets me. Blew the crimp end completely apart. Since the amount of pull is dictated by the factory E-brake system there is no way in hell his should have broken. What a disappointment. I don't know if Zcar Depot makes these or not but this is a bit alarming to say the least.
  5. Too late Kind of ugly but it will work. Took the supplied U piece of metal and stepped it out .375". This moved the cable end far enough away from the caliper to get full travel on the cable before the clevis bottomed out. Really should have been .4375 or .5" but it works. I ended up using up a lot of the adjustment in the E-brake system. The U piece is 3mm thick which allows the use of the factory clip. I made .5" thick spacer blocks to improve the angle of attack on the caliper lever. This completely solved that issue. Other than this everything else wen't pretty smoothly. I would not recommend this kit though until they correct this issue and develop better instructions. Based on my experience with this "kit" I've decided to offer the KN20 head in kit form. Here is the first one ready to sell.
  6. So I bought a Rear disk kit from Zcar depot. No instructions of course because that would make it all too easy. They have a video that is pretty close to worthless . Brake install If you want a laugh while you are in quarantine watch it and see if you can figure out the E-brake. I also purchased one of their replacement E-brake cables. So here is my question for anyone who has done this. How did you get the E-brake cables to work. The E-brake brackets leave a lot to be desired. The bracket material is too thick to use the original clip system to retain the cable housing so it basically flops around. They supply 2 U clips but since there is no groove exposed it won't work. But that doesn't matter because they aren't designed for clipping. I called them and the person told me that the bracket is basically universal and they supply the U clip to weld on the bracket. Now not only was I not aware of that since there were no instructions it still will leave the cable sheath flopping around in the bracket. Plus at that point the cables were already in the car and although I have a TIG welder that mod will be my last choice. The angle of attack on the bracket is not really proper for the motion and after rigging it up with my best guess, because you know no instructions, There does not seem to be enough travel between the clevis and the sheath to allow full actuation of the brake. I bought this kit because I didn't want to do the engineering on something I was not going to produce and sell and now it looks like I have to do the engineering after all. Now it's very possible that I am fully missing the concept of how this should go together but so far I'm at a loss. Thanks Derek
  7. Thanks for the reply. That helps. The bar on my 73 is different than the 280.
  8. The one that mounts in front of the diff. I need to know the distance from the center line on the bar where it mounts to the frame to the center of the hole in the end. +/- .25". Not that critical just trying to identify what I have. Thanks, Derek
  9. Looking great Duffy. I'll have my crank back today. I ended up with 84.84mm stroke and setup for the Toyota rods.
  10. Yea the B&M is kind of a little too clicky if that makes sense. I'm hoping that I adjust to it over time but it's a huge difference from the stock 4 speed.
  11. Thanks for the help. Did the coupler pull right off? Or was sone sort of incendiary deice implemented:)
  12. Yes the rubber boot. Did you use the B&M shifter? It has a large plastic coupler on the shaft and the boot won't pull over it. Thanks Derek
  13. Question for those that have done this swap and used the B&M 45088 shifter. What did you do for the rubber inner boot? The stock one does not look like it is going to work. Thanks Derek
  14. Derek

    Speeduino

    It's amazing how much of that gets picked up in the audio. I can never get a satisfactory recording of mine either. Good luck with the tune. ITB's rock:)
  15. Those look like a pretty good option. I'm at the beginning stages of looking at the Subaru R180 and this seems like a good way to go. Thanks for posting this. Derek
  16. Work faster I'm dying to see this on the road!
  17. Wow tioga that looks great. Nice attention to detail. I love push to connect fittings. I wasn't sure how well they would work out in the long run but so far so good.
  18. It seems the pent roof chamber would be a real plus for a turbo build detonation wise. I know next to nothing about turbo builds and what it takes to get in the range of 500 HP at the crank with a P90. Normally aspirated with the KN20 you are looking at 3.5L slinging it at 9000 to 9500 RPMs RPM's and displacement are what drives NA builds through the roof. Maybe a standard 3.0 stroker with a custom piston to take advantage of the chamber design and a small turbo might result in a very fun driver. But like I said I'm no turbo guy.
  19. Pete McDonnell made a comment on FB about how much pressure and stress a head that flows this much will put on the deck. The head being hot isostatic pressed and then heat treated to T6 will help for sure but unless you know exactly what you are doing with a turbo build of this nature you may be in for sad times.
  20. A few have enquired about it but there are no concrete plans that I have heard of. There is no historical data on the head as to how much boost is too much boost. Pretty big risk on something this expensive. I'm sure someday someone will.
  21. Yes yes let the hate flow through you. I'd shoot for a 3.2 for sure. I'm planing a 3.2 for my final build. Offset ground crank, Honda rods and custom 11.5 or 12:1 pistons. That should really bring the head alive.
  22. Hi Phar Sorry for the late reply. No SN005 has not dyno'd his car after the initial tune yet. The intake manifolds were never port matched to the head. He sent them up to me recently and I machined them for him. He had to fatten up the tune quite a bit as it was going lean. I'm sure at some point he'll do it but he is super happy with the power it's making. As he say's "scary fast" Driving my car with the VCT pretty much every day. Got right around 2K on it and no new noises or problems. Had the valve cover off multiple times checking things and it always looks the same. I have a little chain noise on overrun but seems to bother me more than anyone else:) I wish I had the time and money to build my stroker because the head really wants more air. Derek
  23. Well that would be nice. In theoryville, the land of my people, I designed the intakes to hold a DCOE body and a K&N short air filter. It has not been tested yet. I'll see if 005 can get a decent measurement between the shock tower and the face of the throttle body. He is running the heritage bodies.
  24. Hi Perra Here is a link to the pricing. There are a lot of different ways to build the head so there is no single price listed. You'll need to do some math:) KN20 Pricing
  25. So guess what this is. Give up? First and foremost it is the last item that I had to engineer for the KN20. Everything else is done. The standard block timing set was all that was left and this is the final part. It's also an item that may save you thousands of dollars:) Very early in the testing of the running prototype I suffered a engine shutdown during a run. Towed the car to the shop and after pulling the valve cover I noticed the welch plug had popped out of the upper tensioner. Unfortunately it fell between the chain and the crank sprocket. It chewed some teeth off and bent a whole lotta valves. Fixed it all up and on the new tensioner I put a couple of tacks between the body and the plug with silicone bronze rod. You can see it in the picture on my mockup tensioner. Ran it for a bit and during an inspection I noticed one of the welds cracked and the plug was on it's way out. WTF?? I ended up drilling through the body of the tensioner and pinning it which was a total PIA. I'm convinced it was the crappy Crane Cams lobe design that was pumping the crap out of the chain and the hydraulics blew the plug out. So this bracket is there as a safety just in case. So sad to say this thread is probably going to get a whole lot duller since there won't be anything new to post engineering wise. I may throw a pic up now and then but I'm thinking this is probably close to the end. Thanks for all of the support and great ideas from my HybridZ family. Derek
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