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NickandM 72 240Z

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Posts posted by NickandM 72 240Z

  1. Hey guys,

    Thought I'd revive this long forgotten thread.

    I came across this thread about about 6 months ago and it really got me curious, to the point where I couldn't sleep at night with my brain going a million miles an hour thinking about the differant ways to do these strange grooves.

    So I finally found this thread again, then looked up popular science, found the article on their web site and had a good read.

    (if anyones interested here's the link, great story http://www.popsci.com/cars/article/2004-09/obsession-mr-singhs-search-holy-grail )

     

    Halfway through the article it talks about how he patented this idea and gives you the patent number, so I then looked up the US Patent Office, did a quick seach by patent number and whahlaa, some of his drawings are there and a full explination of how this design works.

     

    Anyway I couldn't believe my luck at actually finding what I needed on the net, so the punchline to this story is that I took the head off my L18 yesterday to do some minor port work and replace the timing chain but now I'm going to try this idea out and see what differance it makes.

     

    For anyone who's interested keep an eye on this thread, I will post pics and do a write up of how the 510 goes after this mod.

    Cheers.

     

    Nick

  2. Could you pull the vacuum before the turbo inlet? The turbo will be sucking it in for the most part. Even when the recirc or blow off valve is in action there should still be some vacuum.

     

    yeh thats what I thought, while the engine is running you'd always have a vacuum before the turbo because you'd still have all your intake air going through there even before the turb spooled up, whether that air was being used by the engine or not doesn't matter as long as there is that vacuum. I'll check out the skyline stuff too, thanks for your thoughts lads

     

    Nick

  3. Hey Guys, Sorry if this has been covered before, I did search for a few days.

    I am building an NA RB30 with a t3/t4 running about 5psi and adding 2 extra injectors so as not to lean out, just wondering how the positive pressure in the intake minifold of a turbo'd engine will effect the vacuum controls for the heater/aircon sys.

    Will they work in reverse?

    I could maybe tap the vacuum from before the turbo?

    How are you guys that have turbo engines getting around this.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Cheers

    Nick

  4. Careless,

    I have also experienced the same "attitude" towards simple requests and have had to find things out the hard way, that said I have also received some really helpfull info off a select few.

    So if you need somone to ring around Aussie stores or if you can't get somthing let me know.

     

    Cheers

    Nick

  5. aaaah well, can't blame a guy for trying.

    Will be interested to see you pix when your sump is being done, I have been thinking about getting mine water cut about half an inch up from the bolt lip right around it, then turning 180 degrees and rewelding the two halves to an adapter plate (because it isn't symetrical). Don't know whether to mess about with that idea or just get a CRS one, very pricey though.

    Good luck.

    Nick

  6. 73 240Z, californian kit with g-nose, metalic purple, building RB30ET at the moment, going to be an auto for practicality (and it's for the missus) found some mint black leather porsche seats, planning a leather centre console, new dash with white faces and custom door skins, I have given myself 3 months to finish it (may not happen), when my girl saw it she said four words, I WANT THAT CAR. Bought it for $5000 (he was askin $7500) already sprayed and with an L26 with extractors and round tops init, sold the L for $300 and that paid for the RB, all seems to easy so far with the help from you guys and the castlemain rod shop, waiting for a snag.

    Nick

  7. Finally got the little b#*stard off, Rob I did you idea and it worked a treat. I had to give it quite a few big hits but I ended up being able to slide it off with a tyre iron after it cracked, wish I had known that before ruining my oil pump. aah well it's off now so the crank is out and the front cover/oil pump.

    Now the blocks ready for an acid bath, bore and hone, deck and tunnel hone.

    Then I get to start putting things back in, I'm a bit worried about setting the cam timing back up but I'll do some research on this site and ask some stupid questions when things come up.

    Thank you all very much for your help it made all the differance, from the sound of it a few people may have learned a couple of things from this thread so thats always good.

    Cheers again. Nick

  8. rob, that exactle what I needed, a PROVEN technique, I wouldn't have thought of that. I will definately do that tomorow and let you know what happens.

    I'm guessing I will need a new oil pump :( I have been levering the hell outa the old one, since I'm making this engine a turbo (NA with a little turb 6-8 psi) I was thinking I should get the turbo oil pump anyway yeh?

     

    Also could anyone tell me what an RB25 head (non vvt) with all the valvetrain, rocker covers, intake and throttle body would go for?

    I have been offered all that for $400 but wouldn't know if it was cracked or damaged, what do you think of the price?

    Cheers. Nick

  9. twisting it off the snout a little bit would be a great idea if it wasn't for that damn little key way. Can anyone think of whats stopping me from pulling the crank straight up with the engine crane, with oil pump/ front cover and cam pulley still attached?

    As I said before I think once off I would have more room to get somthing behind it, like a tyre iron.

    Nick

  10. Hey guys, thnks for all the responses.

    My main problem is that I don't have any room to get anything behind it, I'm thinkin about rigging up the engine stand to the crank and trying to pull it straight up with the front cover still attached, once off I think the pulley might be easier to man handle.

    I am kind of releaved that I wasn't called a dumb F^#K and I missed an important detail somwhere, glad it's a common problem.

    I think I may have to go with the drilling and tapping idea, or maybe a bit of wire I could get behind it then slide hammer it off.

    Will takle it again tonight and update, better head to work.

    Thanks for all your help.

    Cheers. Nick

  11. Hey guys, just having alot of trouble removing the cam sprocket from the crank. I have the front cover bolts out, the crank is just sitting in there, bearing cradle removed. I just can't see a way of getting that sprocket off, I have tried levering the front cover off with the crank (bad I know) with no results. I can't get a puller behind the sprocket, and I can't remove the crank untill I get it off. How the hell do the rest of you guys get it off?

    Any ideas appreciated.

    Cheers. Nick

  12. Hey guys, just bought an auto panel bit for the centre console for my 72 240Z, the car was a manual and the auto bit doesn't seem to fit in the manual console, probably a really stupid thread and question but what do the auto ones have differant? any pics would be sweet. Will I have to buy an auto console?

    Cheers. Nick

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