grannyknot

Absolutely not, those existing rings are perfectly mated to the cylinder walls just the way they are, if you deglaze then you have to put new rings in..

Well you're right to start with the braking system then, go through each area of it if just for peace of mind.

I'm going to quote this post the next time this subject comes up on ClassicZforum, the last time it did I suggested the 5/8" bolt as a replacement for the original pin and got spanked back into my corner. Hard to argue with 250 track days.

That's good to know, thanks.

Okay technically, the main bearing caps should be loosened in 3 steps from the ends moving towards the center exactly opposite of the tightening sequence and to be safe that procedure really should be followed. The conrods caps however can be loosened independently of each other with no harm. Sure, I would throw some assembly lube on them if the bearings are in good shape and button it all back up. I've always found conrod bearings wear out before the main bearings so if you check a couple of the conrod bearings first and they are good you may not have to touch the mains at all. Personally I would find it irresistible not to go all the way, but if everything is in spec then rebuilding it isn't really going give much more than what you have right now.

These are tough engines and 130K is not a lot miles, having the throttles open would have given you better idea but since all cylinders were equally starved of air and you had fairly consistent numbers you can probably leave it as is and save yourself some effort and money. For me any excuse to rebuild the engine is a good reason but you will probably be fine by just resealing it. You might want to pull 1 or 2 main bearing caps and conrod caps just to make sure.

They both should be pretty much identical, the 5mph bumper shocks didn't start until 74 I think.

Personally I would start with both the brake and clutch master cylinders and work downward from there. Pull them out, dismantle and clean them. I can almost guarantee they will be full of muck, check the cylinder walls for corrosion and pitting, if they are smooth you may be able to just reassemble and put them back in to use but at least you will know they are in good working order. Here is the last M/C I removed and the proportioning valve.

Nice job! Yes we have all found those rust surprises waiting for us on the other side of the sound deadener, make sure you do the same up front under the seats. Even on the near vertical sides of the transmission tunnel you can find rust under that stuff. Maybe it's just the light but your black textured truck bed liner looks distinctly silver -grey, it's a good look.

Greg, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately you don't see superchargers much anymore, replaced by the ubiquitous turbo. I'm looking forward to your adventures with your supercharger.

I know someone is making them, just can't remember where I saw it. Start a thread with door skin in the tile and someone will tell you, I'll keep looking.

That's really coming along now, do you think you'll get to drive this year?

Looking good, yeah I had those talks with myself before, "How did I end up paying someone money for this rust bomb?" Are you going to re-skin that door or just patch?

I'll just play devil's advocate second, a battery in the passenger compartment is usually in a sealed container vented to the outside to prevent a build up of hydrogen gas in the cab and to prevent hydrochloric acid from flying around the cab in case of a collision.

@jhm,I too love Fedhill but a friend turned me on to these guys, https://www.thestopshop.com/collections/copper-nickel-cupronickel-tubing-kits The wall thickness is the same a Fedhill but the price difference is substantial, I like their armor as well, also not expensive. I haven't purchased anything from them yet but my friend has and is very pleased with the products he has received.

Since there will always be a next owner at some point that might want to go back to bumpers you could just squirt some sealant in the holes then add little filler to smooth it out.

The rear brakes are the only ones you want a prop. valve going to. I like the knob coming up through the console.

I think this might be what @AydinZ71 is referring to, https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html It does the job well but is very thin stuff so runs everywhere, it also comes out of the can VERY quickly so you will run through the can before you know it. I used 4 cans and I just barely got my Z done with it, I wish I had ordered 6-7 cans.

Welcome to the forum, you have your work cut out for you Sorry, couldn't resist. This is a fellow Albertan you should get to know, zKars on the ClassicZcar forum, he has many many parts for our cars and has very reasonable prices, he's also a wealth of knowledge for everything Z. With so much of the car rusted away I would just caution you repair one section at a time so the body doesn't distort and get welded back in the wrong position. It might be a good idea to mount a door when working on the rockers so you can be sure to get fit right. Also, mount the front cross member and the transmission mount just to give the car some added stiffness.

These two books are great. https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Datsun+engine&qid=1613081945&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Datsun+engine&qid=1613081999&sr=8-2 The performance mods are in the first book.

As I remember everyone back in the day carried a towel in the car for the carwash or rain storms. Nice to see you could tweak it out. Yes, the Kia door seal is a good option, I have them on both doors and the rear hatch and they work perfectly.

She's cute. Interesting but aren't 5 lug conversion kits readily available? Just had a look at TTT and their front and rear 5 lug hubs and axles would $850 so you could save a lot of cash by picking up your own Mustang front hubs and then order the rear axles. That's good info to hang onto, thanks.

A long thread but lots of good info in there.

Since you have the tank all cut open have you considered installing gas tank foam? A lot less work and lighter.

😬 Prepare yourself, there's more of that waiting for you. On the bright side most of the rust prone body panels are available now.