grannyknot
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Posts posted by grannyknot
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4 hours ago, JMortensen said:
I would weld and grind that, personally. If you're using poly I'd suggest sanding the bushings down so that they're not way longer than the sleeve in the middle. If rubber, just remember not to torque until it's on the ground.
This^ and if you are concerned about possible warping then you can do a couple of small spot welds, let it cool or cool it off with compressed air, then do a couple more never letting the pipe get too hot, then grind it back down.
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Do you know if the rear wheel bearings were changed during the rebuild? Is it a continuous sound that is consistent with the speed of the car? Rise or fall in pitch?
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Get a set of the NGK's and try again, white smoke is often coolant getting into the combustion chamber.
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19 hours ago, jersey280 said:
I feel like the fuel pump may be shutting off once I begin cranking?
Any ideas what may be causing this?
You need to find out if that is actually happening, get a friend to crank the engine while you take a voltage reading at the pump.
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As long as you can use that gas in the mower then you can think of it as free😀
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I notice you have mounted the rear spoiler nice and tight to the hatch, that means you will get some vibration rubbing on the rear quarter panels where the spoiler over hangs. The way to prevent any scratches before they start is covering the area with a small piece of the 3M clear film. I only discovered that after the scratches had happened on mine.
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That's a nice setup.👍
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Can't say I have ever seen any, I think most of us go a place like McMaster/Carr or Fastenal.
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Have a look through these, https://kyushashoes.com/
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You guys know that Silvermine carries a handbrake actuated parking brake calipers right?
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Yeah that's a little bigger than normal for these cars but as long as the fuel regulator is working properly once the fuel rail fills up it will have proper pressure.
Maybe turn the key to ON and just let the rail fill up before turning the key to start.
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If you're putting a swapped engine in you might as well start from scratch, you'll be glad when it's done that everything was set up properly in order.
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I haven't used the brazing rods for tig welding but have used the silicon/bronze mig wire with 100% Argon gas, excellent product, low temp welding, easy to grind.
I would think silicon/bronze with tig or mig would work well for your job.
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On 8/16/2021 at 5:30 PM, grannyknot1 said:
I have been here for years then recently I couldn't login, tried everything, finally had to re register with a slightly different name. Lost all my history.
I had to go back to my old Desktop PC to find my account which is just as well since the new computer shows nothing but ads popping up every where.
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On 7/24/2020 at 3:49 PM, Derek said:
As in Ohm readings? No not really. Since I used the calibration feature of the MeterMatch as opposed to the pre configured method there isn't any way to know for sure.
Only took a year to get around to it but I'm ready to install the MeterMatch to the Speedhut fuel gauge and the Datsun fuel level sender. I have a working 510 fuel sender unit on the shelf, to avoid having to drain the 240Z's gas tank, remove the sender unit and bring it into the cab to do the setup I'm wondering if I can just use the 510's sender to calibrate.
To my eye they are the exact same unit with the only difference being the bend of the wire going to the float.
What do you guys think?
Thanks
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Very cool guys.
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Nothing wrong with the original manifold, they actually flowed pretty well especially with the air tubes ground flat, when I did mine many years ago I got a 14" piece of 1/4" aircraft cable and stuck it in a hand drill and shoved it in every opening and turned it on full speed, the individual strands separated and it became a cat o nine tails.
Cleaned out lots of caked on carbon that had built up over the years.
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On 7/13/2021 at 1:14 AM, A to Z said:
Carbs are done. Here they are. On the way home!
Who did you get to do those carbs?
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17 hours ago, Dat73z said:
but have no idea why nobody carries this, maybe it's a CA thing.
Oh yeah, I'm sure it has some pretty nasty chemicals in it.
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I've always just used a razor blade dental picks but Permatex also makes this stuff, https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-removers/permatex-rtv-silicone-dissolver/
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On 7/5/2021 at 4:23 PM, fusion said:
It almost looks like there was a piece of foam between it and the sheet metal.
I've noticed that too and I think it did have foam in there at one point so as to give a bit of support to the outer skin as you push the button down to release the hatch.
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One of the nice things about the original orange air box is the built in velocity stacks or air horns, a lot of after market air cleaners don't have room for air horns. The original design works well.
Hood won't fit 240Z fresh paint.
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Post pics, we need to see what you are seeing, it does sound like the unibody and or hood are not in their proper shape.
I would try to get the hood sitting flush with cowl and fenders and then start working on the hinges, there's lots of tweaking that can be done to the hinges and because some of these hinges are quite worn you may have to enlarge to mounting holes so the hinge unit can sit farther down than normally.
Also the 8 hex head screws that hold the fender on in the gap between the fender and hood are not a standard M6x1mm, The head is not as tall/thick as the rest of the M6x1mm screws and there is only one thin washer with no lock washer.