rickyellow zee
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Posts posted by rickyellow zee
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So I have a 78 280z with an L28ET swap. The motor/distributor are from an 83 Zx turbo and the current ECU/harness is from an 81 280Zx turbo. I would like to try an ECU from an 83 so it matches the motor/dizzy. The current CAS is in the dizzy on my car and the injectors use the dropping resistors that came stock from 78. The 81 ECU requires the external dropping resistors and the 83 ECU I want to use does not require them. I believe the resistors are located inside the 83 ECU. What is needed to make the 83 computer work on my setup? Is there something I need to do to the resistor wiring? Thanks. Hope I was clear.
Rick
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This makes sense. I have no vcm, aac, egr etc. So things are acting the way they are supposed to then. Great!
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The car is a 78 280z with an L28ET swap. I was going over the wiring as I do every year before putting the car on the road and was doing some tests when I noticed something strange with the TPS. The tests all check out as per the fsm. I tested for continuity when the the throttle is open and the switch loses continuity as it should. Tested that at the switch and at the ecu plug. All good there but I noticed when I unplug the tps sensor at the sensor while the car is idling nothing happens to the idle. If I'm correct the idle should change when the switch is open because of different fuel enrichment. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Rocky Auto Z. drool!!
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I'm surprised the PRW-2 doesn't require a 12V wire like the HEI and the stock unit does. Hmm.
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I checked and rechecked every wire in the engine bay and at the ECU. When I got the car the wiring was a mess but I cleaned it up. New injector plugs, etc....I modified all the eccs plugs at nice n tight.
I'm gonna work on the car tonight and try and wire the stock 78 module. If that works great but if not I'm gonna look into the PRW-2. Also gonna look into the CAS. Make sure everything is on point. Thanks
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Will do! So you think its a good idea to ground the red wire eh? I will try and see what happens. Thanks.
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I tried the HEI. I wired it up as per "skittles" diagram on another site. It would not rev past 2000. Checked the wires, checked them again. Posted my results on another forum and everyone said my wiring was correct but it didnt work correctly.
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Mine is a 78. I mention earlier it was a 77. I was wrong.
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I was thinking of trying this out and seeing if it works. This is using the 1978 280z ignition Module and the L28ET wiring and ECU(the car is a 78 280z with the L28ET swap from an 83). I am using the yellow signal wire to feed the 280z ignition Module instead of the red and green wires from the distributor that was used with the original set up. What do you think?
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I couldn't find a write up on this mod. I searched the net but no luck. I only found a write up on the z31 'ecu upgrade. Does this module work with the l28et? Thanks.
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The link you posted is for the Z31.The L28ET module is 4 wire and the modern PRW-2 has 3 wires. I'm gonna have to look into this. Looks promising.
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My car is a 78. Not sure the rating for that module is. Maybe different than the 75 76 box.
I tried the HEI swap and it would not rev past 2000. I wired it correctly Im sure of that. I went back to the stock L28ET ignition module transistor and its intermittent cutting out. It cuts out maybe once a month or so.
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I currently have a L28ET from a 280zx turbo in my 78 280z. The car has been intermittently dying on me from time to time and starts up after letting it cool for 20 minutes or so. All of the research Ive been doing points to the ignition coil transistor which in my case is located on the coil bracket. From what I understand the 280z has the ignition control transistor located near the fuse panel passenger side in the car. Mine is there. Is there a way I can run wires from my coil to the engine compartment to the module located in the car and use that module instead? Thanks.
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Those mirrors really look sharp BTW.
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I'm glad it works out. Gonna grab some tomorrow.
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I filled the holes that were originally there and placed it closer to the front of the car still useless. I think if I stick a convex mirror it should make things better. After what I went through just getting the screws tightened I dont see myself redoing it. Down the road I will get some fender mirrors so till then it stays.
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I installed my passenger side msa "Buller mirror" and it is utterly useless in seeing anything at all. I can't angle it enough to make a difference. I'm going to stick a convex mirror to help things out. Anyone else have this issue? The only plus is they look attractive.
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I used quilted maple. No quite as polished looking as above but it serves me well.
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"the increased amount of fuel is constant when the temp is 70 deg C" but correction by intake air temp is always monitored. It would make more sense to hack into this sensor to adjust fuel one would think. This is what is shown on the graph above. Maybe my perception is wrong. Meh, old technology.
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Find out what the "one wire" is and all will be clear. The L-Jetronic system is very simple.
Ive researched and cant find the answer. I figured it was a scam.
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So the CHTS DOES plays a role in how much fuel is sent at all times. Interesting. From all the posts I've read recently I was under the impression that it goes on a "set map" after 3500 regardless of sensor input. Dumps a certain amount of fuel only tweakable by the FPR. Learn something new every day!
When I purchased my car a few years back the previous owner was using the stock 78 ECU/AFM with an 83 L28ET swap by adding a resistor to the CHTS wire. It worked but only at partial throttle. Since then I have converted to the right ECU and AFM.
What is needed to run 83 L28ET ECU
in Ignition and Electrical
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I will go MS2. **** this ECCS bullshit. Thanks!