ukcats07
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Posts posted by ukcats07
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On 8/25/2022 at 9:03 AM, frenchreiner said:
I know it’s late in the conversation but I have the exact same problem that you have with the knock sensors. I also had the ECM tuned by ls1tech. I was wondering if you found a solution?
My problem was definitely the cheapo ebay knock sensors. I remember buying genuine AC Delco sensors and the knock problem went away immediately. I had some other compounding problems, but the knock issue was definitely a sensor problem. Do you have the codes you are throwing?
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On 8/25/2022 at 9:03 AM, frenchreiner said:
I know it’s late in the conversation but I have the exact same problem that you have with the knock sensors. I also had the ECM tuned by ls1tech. I was wondering if you found a solution?
Just now seeing this apologies. Let me look through my notes and see if I can remember what happened and how I fixed it. Without looking at anything, I believe it was being fuel starved with the original 240 gas tank setup. I'll dig a little deeper and get you the full answer.
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Looking for a wideband that can be used with a Gen 3 PCM (EGR/AC PCM input). Thanks.
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8 minutes ago, DonH said:
congrats! Nice job on the fire extinguisher as well!
Thanks! I had an 87' RX7 in high school that caught fire twice. First time I put it out with an extinguisher, the second time I didn't have an extinguisher and had to watch it burn to the ground. After that lovely event, I always make sure I have one handy.
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Started the 5.3 after 5 years of not having the car yesterday. Everything went fairly smooth with no leaks or weird noises. Lifters were a little loud, but settled down on the second start. My fan didn't come on, but after some research I determined that the PCM grounds pin 42 instead of sending 12v. My pin 85 and 86 in the fan relay were both set to ground so the relay was never going to get energized. Pin 86 will be given 12v and now it should come on. Nice to have the first start monkey off the back and get to finishing the car.
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Thanks for all the input. My ignition switch checks good when disconnected from the lock assembly. I'm going to focus on the battery hot circuits and see if a wire is mixed up somewhere giving power to the BW wire somehow. I can deal without the wiper and flasher circuit for the time being until I find the problem.
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The other thing that's not very clear is the 2 wires on the lock assembly with male spades. I believe they are for the door buzzer and door closed switch, but not sure how they work with respect to key position and whether they can somehow be tied into the other parts of the cars wiring unintentionally.
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2 minutes ago, NewZed said:
You described a whole bunch of stuff. It's not clear where on the "B/W" wire you measured. And there's a lot of B/W wires in the car.
I measured the B/W wire at the ignition switch, in the plug. What I don't understand is how I was getting 0v in OFF, but suddenly receiving 12v when turned all the way to LOCK. The wiring diagram is unclear, but I assume that none of the contacts (with the exception of the W/R wire contact) should be hot in LOCK. I removed the key assembly as a culprit by testing another known good key with my 5 pin ignition switch and I only received continuity on the appropriate pins when it was turned their respective positions--i.e. only the ACC pin had continuity when the key was in ACC, etc.
9 minutes ago, NewZed said:If you're not getting power through the switch with the key in the Lock position then the power on the B/W wire is coming from a short or some other weird wiring thing.
I'm leaning towards a weird wire thing with my ignition wire circuit and the air conditioning, wiper, or flasher circuit. I'm really just trying to make sure I'm on the right track before I start hunting and pecking.
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Also, to be clear, my B/Y wire now does not spike when the key is turned slowly like it did before I pulled the fuses.
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6 minutes ago, NewZed said:
Check the wires at the back of the ignition switch. There's only four. Sounds like the electrical portion of the switch is worn out and shorting. You can get replacements. There's a screw that you have to drill or cut the head off of. Anti-theft measure.
I have a 5 point ignition switch in my Z. My Dad gave me a spare switch and lock combo that I tested and it checked out good as well. To be clear, my plug that goes into the ignition on the steering wheel has five wires-- W/R power, L/R accessory, B/W ignition, B/Y start, G/W tach-resistor. I tested for continuity at each spade and it all checked good--is that sufficient testing for an ignition switch? Also, I'm still unclear as to why it operates normally now that the fuses are removed.
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I'll start off by saying I solved my problem, but I'm unclear of why it worked.
Bottom line is that I was receiving 12v on the Black/White keyed wire while the key was in the “LOCK” position, 0v in “OFF” and “ACC” then 12v in “RUN” and “START”. All of this is normal with the exception of the “LOCK” position. Measurements were made at the ignition switch. I was also getting ground indications from this wire (one side of the multi-meter on the B/W and the other would have continuity when touched to any ground on the car).
My Black/Yellow crank wire was also spiking around 6v if I turned the key slowly from “LOCK” to “OFF” (which resulted in a WTF moment when the starter kicked over), but otherwise only showed 12v in “START” and also didn’t spike if I turned the key rapidly from “LOCK” to “OFF”.
I’ve “solved” the problem by removing the Air Cond (factory option, but none installed for this swap), Wiper motor, and Flasher fuses which resulted in normal behavior of the ignition switch wires when turned to the appropriate location.
I’ve attached my BLUE, GREEN, WHITE, BLACK dash to engine harness plug pin-outs, marked-up body electrical page from FSM and pictures of my power distribution to the harness.
I’ve stared at the wiring diagram and cannot figure out why removing those fuses result in normal behavior. Even worse, I have no idea how this wire is getting 12v when the key is in the “LOCK” position. Any help or insight would be beneficial. I suspect something with the Flasher circuit considering it is battery hot at all times and is the logical choice for why a wire that shouldn’t be hot was showing 12v.
Background
1973 240z, been the owner for the past 13 years. PO didn't hack anything up, I received it with no engine/transmission in preparation for a 302/T5 swap. My current setup is a 5.3L/T56 using a re-worked truck harness and PCM (did it myself and very familiar with most every wire) and EZLSX Power Distribution Module for power delivery from the PCM. My power distribution for the engine harness and rest of the car is through a Littelfuse 07981003ZXS LTX MEGA & MIDI Fuse Block Kit. I have a brand-new battery and have verified LS and Z harness grounds are good. My Z fuse block, and wire harness in general, are in excellent condition.
I removed my Z engine harness and modified it wire-by-wire to remove wires that were not needed for this swap. I have attached my pin-outs for the 4 colored connectors under the passenger side of the dash. Generally speaking, only lights, power, wiper motor and horn wires remain. The Black/White, Black/Yellow and Green/White are snaked into the car to connect to the EZLSX PDM through a weather-pack connector.
My large gauge White and White/Red wires are running the littlefuse fuse block kit on the same 40A fuse. My 12v source for the PDM is also on this fuse. My headlights are on a different fuse through a relay block as well as the taurus fan.
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Don't mind the disgusting tack weld, that will be ground down before paint. Pics hopefully show what I'm working with. I lose the vent-tee on the filler neck, but something can be fab'd I believe.
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On 9/7/2020 at 6:56 AM, caperix said:
Always good to have more pictures of this swap. Have you decided on how you are going to do the filler neck? My tank came with a f body filler & it looks like I could mount it in the factory location with a little work, but the angle may make fill ups difficult.
I was able to make the camaro filler neck work. I cut the 60ish degree bend off, and re-welded the nipple to the straight end of the pipe. I removed the datsun filler neck completely and used an exhaust flange to tack the camaro filler neck in place. The bolt hole arrangement of the exhaust flange was the exact same as the original datsun hole placement. I'll take some pics and upload when able, but it looks like it's going to work out nicely. Just need a 1x1" 90 degree hose barb coupler and some 1" and 1.25" fuel hose to finish it off.
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On 9/7/2020 at 12:14 PM, Miles said:
Buy this book it will save you hours and hours researching 240z restoration issues.
How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car: How to Restore Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z by Wick Humble
https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022
Great source thanks. I have a lot of books and manuals but haven't seen this one.
2 hours ago, Mayolives said:maseraticompound@gmail.com Maserati Compound This guy has Datsun parts that can be hard to find. Searching is a little strange because I have found z and zx parts mislabled but if you take a look you will find good pictures of what he has and he ships fast.
I actually found this site shortly after posting. I'm in contact with him and it sounds like he might have one available.
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On 9/6/2020 at 10:08 PM, idahoskiguy said:
Good work! Thanks for posting.
Thanks! It's nice to check things off the seemingly never ending list.
18 hours ago, caperix said:Always good to have more pictures of this swap. Have you decided on how you are going to do the filler neck? My tank came with a f body filler & it looks like I could mount it in the factory location with a little work, but the angle may make fill ups difficult.
The input is pretty high on the tank. I just purchased a stock Camaro filler and I'm going to try to make that work once it shows up. Other posts said it's OD matches the ID of the Datsun fill neck. I'm hoping that's the case and it goes somewhat smoothly.
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I finally have my 73 back in the garage after 5 years and I'm finding little things like my door handles, locks, etc are missing. The car was painted when my uncle had it and he unfortunately passed so I can't ask where those things are located. To my question...
Does anybody know where to source the actuator rod that connects to the exterior door handle? I found my passenger side in the bottom of the door panel, but I'm assuming my driver's side stayed attached to the handle that is unfortunately missing. I've attached a picture for reference. Thanks
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I finally finished installing my 99-02 Camaro plastic fuel tank into my 73' this week. I used 2x1" rectangular 1/8" tubing and a 3/4" bushing for the strap hold-downs. Welds aren't pretty, but they are solid and work. I think I spent a total of about $20 n the steel, $15 for the straps, $60 for the tank, and $80 for the pump. I'm posting this to hopefully help somebody else out as the other posts on this topic have good info, but dead picture links.
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On 8/4/2011 at 6:00 PM, gvincent said:
I know this is an old thread but if anyone downloaded the pics to go with this thread I would love to get a copy. It seems I am having to go this route as my 76 280Z tank is junk after being boiled out, there is still too much rust inside.
I have the LT1 V8 conversion and was starving for fuel at WOT anyway
PM or email me thanks
Greg
I second this, if anyone has the photos.
Doug
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I need somebody to sanity-check my potential fuse-relay block solution for my wiring harness. I followed the LT1swap instructions the first time around, but I'm not satisfied with how it came out (more me being lazy and get-it-done-itis) and I'm trying to consolidate relays/fuses for a cleaner installation.
I'm looking at using the Eaton Bussman 15303--2-2-4 RTMR Fuse Relay block in conjunction with the Sealed Buss Bar SBC-12 and corresponding Deutsch 12-pin connector. This fuse/relay block would take start/run 12v through a relay and into the sealed buss, passing power to the PCM/MAF/Coils/O2/Injectors and check engine light. The orange PCM 12v wires would receive fused 12v through the block power bus. The fuel pump/starter/fans would all receive 12v relayed power through the block as well.
I'm really just looking for another set of eyes to make sure my diagram is complete and I'm not missing anything obvious. Thanks.
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Well it's been almost 5 years and I'm going to pick my Z up next month. My Uncle finished the body work a couple years ago and painted it. My Dad and other Uncle have seen it and said it's really well done...can't wait to see it myself in person. I'm also looking forward to tearing it all back apart and properly finishing (relative term) the swap so I can enjoy driving it after 14 years of ownership. I ended up not going overseas, but to a Guard base instead (New Orleans for those that care), however I didn't get the car due to garage limitations, deployments, etc. I'm about to PCS back to Florida and should have great garage space and time to really dive into the car. If you can't already tell, I'm excited.
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It's been a while, but the car was painted. I haven't seen it in almost 5 years, but I'll be picking it up next month. Really looking forward to tearing it back apart and putting some finishing touches on my LM7 swap.
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they will both look sharp. the lighter color will be easier to keep clean. i say this cause i have had a black Z for a handful of years now and im ready for a lighter color. my truck is silver and looks great all the time
Definitely. I picked the metallic meteor gray with a metallic chrome silver for the stripes. I was able to see both in person and really like the combo. I hear ya with the dark paint...can never keep clean.
That's Mark Rolston's 240z.
I saw that in the article. I was hoping him or somebody who knows him was on the forums and could chime in to confirm my suspicions.
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It's time to paint the Z and I need some help from you guys regarding a color scheme I found on this Z.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/130-0706-1971-datsun-240-z/
The article says it was painted Porsche atlas grey, but my eyes say it looks more like meteor grey. This post shows a comparison of the two colors.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/688755-meteor-grey-vs-atlas-grey-what-s-the-diff-2.html
Does anybody happen to know the Z in question? Thanks for the help.
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Check my thread too if you need more or you can pm me for info. I did something almost identical.
Thanks. Lots of good info, I appreciate it.
5.3 seems to run great at idle, throws P0332 P0337 knock codes when driven
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
The 240 is pretty much done. The orange one is my dad's 73'--was actually my first car when I was 15. I'm doing the swap for him now with an LS1 and T56. It's crazy having two 240's in my garage!