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jpndave

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Posts posted by jpndave

  1. 4 hours ago, BJSZED said:

    Omar,

     

    Do you think the coolant leak is coming from the NPT threads into the head ? What did you seal those threads with ? I'm about to do the coolant mod and am trying to figure what's best to seal the threads. I was considering just using blue silicone as I've used that before to seal badly damaged threads or using blue locktite.

     

    Do NOT use silicone on NPT threads. Teflon tape, paste or both. Get something decent if you don't have it already. On the tape, wrap opposite of what you would think initially so it lays it down rather than bunching up when threaded together. Thicker higher quality tape does work better and there are stainless specific formulas when needed. 

  2. 11 hours ago, Zetsaz said:


    I may take you up on that. Underneath the car, the fuel lines are one of my biggest frustrations. They work fine, but I just flared them for EFI rubber hose for now. Trying to get my cousin to help me 3D print some mounts to run along the frame rail, right now they're just sort of hanging with only a couple of clamps in the back and front and zip tied to the brake lines which are more properly mounted. Stock rubber mounts don't work since I upgraded to 3/8" stainless line. 

    it's not too bad since I only have very short sections of rubber, especially at the front. The rail is deadheaded and the FPR is running "returnless" style. I've heard that's not ideal with boost, but I figure if the "Medusa" Z is running that way with much more power than I'll ever have and Z Car Garage didn't bother to change it when they did a lot of work for him, then I'm probably fine. 

    Some printed brackets would be sweet. I have that roll flare tool as well as a hydraulic bender and another that does most of the other ends. 

  3. 6 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

    Well... As expected, I've called on two separate occasions and both times the machine shop has told me they haven't gotten to it yet despite calling a day or two after they told me it'd be ready. 

     

    It's "top of the list" right now and will be done "Monday or Tuesday" but I'm not counting on it haha. 

     

    As soon as I get the bellhousing back and cleaned up the transmission is going in for an inspection and rebuild from a local shop I've trusted before with the transmission in my hardbody 

    What do you need machined on that?

  4.  

    @NewZed Those Holley covers are way cleaner than the stock covers with Gen 4 coils. Aside from the covers themselves looking better, no coil brackets. The coils attach directly to the valve covers, so lighter and looks much better.

    Thanks for posting this up on the baffle, I am going to look into it on my Jeep. Your build is looking great!

  5. Overall noise level "might" be higher than a more restricted or a chambered muffler but I much prefer the sound. I find it isn't opjectionable low RPM but a bit of bark when you step into the throttle and no drone/resonance. On the big LS in my JK where it's just a little loud a resonator should take care of it. Luckily there is more room to work with under there. With a turbo on the Duramax one muffler is enough. 

  6. I have this on my truck and Jeep. 

    https://aeroexhaust.com/c-1389207-mufflers-aero-turbinexl.html

    I love how it works on the Truck in 4". JK is 3.5" and just a little loud (Colton likes the noise - kids 🙄) I'm going to add a small resonator when it goes back together.

     

    On my Z I'll do a SS Borla or equivalent dual in dual out (X in the middle of the muffler) if I can make it fit. Look for something with a core like a Borla. 

     

    So on this page any except the chambered one (5th one down) 

    https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/

     A lot of muscle car guys like the deep rumbly sound of a flowmaster but that resonance is horrible. My JK has plenty rumble and none of the resonance. 

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