helghast7

Just skimming this thread I've seen so many things that were done for no reason and could have been avoided and simplified, these engines are so tiny I don't see why all that cover and pan swapping needed to be done when you were going to make custom mounts anyways. In my opinion it would have been easier to buy an REW engine set traded the trans for the s5 t2 trans, bought a PFC and had a custom subframe made. The PFC may not be the most advanced but its the cheapest and simplest solution to things like OMP control, and misc. wiring dilemmas, while making it fully tuneable.

Nice build, I suggest the highest strength race polyurethane mounts you can get for your setup, its what im running on my FD. These engines run so smooth that you could practically run solid mounts with little vibration, you won't regret it. Also, I don't know if you have one already but if you can swing it, I very highly suggest getting a lightened flywheel, it makes a world of difference with acceleration with these engines. Sorry about your hand as well. Almost the same thing happened to me a few years back on an s4 block, almost lost the tip of my left index finger at the first bend when the engine slid out of my hands. Who's going to be tuning your car by the way?

To an extent this is correct. However, and the old me would hate me for saying this, they really just aren't that reliable regardless of what you do, and those cars that make those high numbers are nonturbo, which means no fun. Its the reason I want out after 6+ years of playing with them. As much as mazda has improved the design over the years, and as much as the aftermarket has improved the design even further, they just can't take the abuse that regular piston engines can. Period. These engines as much as I love them, were bred to race, and thats it. Its why they do so very well on the track but mazdas sales struggled throughout history and their reliability isn't very good. Over the time I've spent around them I learned that a happy wankel is a wankel on the track. Theres nothing like a WOT pull through the gears of a nicely built rotary, at least not something that we would ever be able to experience in our "normal" lives lol(F1 lol). But on the street its a constant checklist of things to remember to do, not do, keep an eye out for and so on and so on. They are certainly not budget friendly, my last engine rebuild for my FD cost me roughly 4k with medium porting, which was just parts and labor of the actual rebuild. They don't tolerate knock even in the slightest and are extremely unforgiving when it comes to tuning and like stated elsewhere they they run very rich by nature, which is also the reason they shoot flames out of the back, which to clear things up and answer questions, yes turbo'd rotaries do that naturally and without any help, no need for any silly spark plug in the exhaust or what not. My car can spit up to 2 foot flames at times on decel and between shifts. But if you don't mind the negative side of things, there are also many advantages to them such as their ungodly powerband. A properly set up rotary can see most of its power from about 4k all the way to 9k and with proper balancing weve seen as high as 12k on some cars. Mine hits full boost at around 3500 and stays that way until my 8500 redline, its quite fun to outshift sports bikes, I sometimes like to picture the look on their faces through their helmets when I've only shifted once for their 3 shifts lol. Another plus is the weight and size, even some 4 cylinders have some trouble beating them in size, especially when you relate it to power. And my personal opinion is the most fun thing about them is the flames lol. God thats so fun to see peoples reactions. As for the 4 rotor questions, no matter what route you do, its not cheap. If you do it the real way theres a company in either Australia or New Zeland (i forget which) that sells custom 20b and 26b eccentric shafts for about 10k, after that you need i believe 2 special side housing plates, and the rest can be taken from any other 13b engine minus the rx8 housings, though the rx8 rotors are the best for n/a use since they have the highest compression at 10.1, custom oil pan, you can't do a sick 20b/26b n/a without Peripheral porting it, which is very expensive, and for the 26b you need all custom intakes and exhaust setups and a fully mapable stand alone. Add that all up and you get very empty pockets and an engine that sounds exactly like the 787b or mad mikes FD. The other "fake" way as mentioned earlier has been done plenty of times before by japanese rotary companies such as FEED and RE- Amemiya. Much cheaper then the other way but still not cheap, you basicly need 2 of everything including computers, wire harnesses and what not. I loved the car, had a blast in my time, but im ready for something more reliable that once i dial it in, can hit the track time after time with no worries besides the normal things and still drive home everytime. Plus with the amount of money I've put into my FD, total including purchasing the car, i could have bought a nice s30, made it rust free, installed a complete track suspension and brakes, rb swap with AEM, and probably at least a 4 point cage and been racing for years. Sorry if I rambled much.

Your car is soooooo clean! What differential setup are you running if you don't mind me asking?

Thank you so much, such a wealth of information restored.

Your best bet, honestly, is to pick the car up and have a good look at everything. These are old cars and things fail with age. Most importantly its extremely hard to diagnose a problem over the internet when you haven't even removed the basics from the equation. Start with going under the car and checking the transmission fluid, check the driveshaft u-joints, check the differential fluid, check the axles and check the wheel bearings. Make sure no fluids smell burnt. While your under there it would be a good time to check for leaks of an kind, exhaust and fuel. Im just going to take a guess here and say your burning your clutch since your saying theres a slipping.

Hey, thank you for the info, always great to learn something new. I have a question about that though. Is that only pertaining to the rb26 or is that the rb25 as well?

I've also read its good to install the oil pump collar on the crankshaft so that it makes a more full contact with the oil pump gear.

Nice, looking great, everything looks snug as a bug in a rug in that engine bay.

I'd still love to see it if you do end up going. Its rare to find videos on youtube of s30's with an RB swap during a track day. I love watching track videos .

Nice, hope it all turns out good. Post some videos if you can, I'd love to see that beast tearing up the track!

Thank you so much for the info. This is something I had been wondering since theirs a lot of threads talking about diff swaps, but very few talking about specifically for Rb swaps and the ideal ratio.

That would definitely be much appreciated since I've been dying to learn as much as I can about these engines. This thread loses so much without those pictures.

I would also like comparison photos between the two mounts if possible. Thank you.

Awesome ride, its really done so very well. I've got two questions though. What mount kit did you go with? And what did Leno say about your car? lol

I am also interested in pictures please.

What exactly is wrong with their trans mount and why is it only 72? I've seen you say this before but I haven't seen the post where u give the reason. Thank you.

I'd really love to know where some of you guys changed over from car wise. Because with all the research I've been doing about these car's, and modding them, their dirt cheap. For the amount I paid for my old FD and what I put into it, I could have easily fully built an s30 with an rb swap doing at least 500whp reliably. Granted I do my own work and I don't pay a shop. But that only saves on labor, which from the looks of the members on here, is most of you anyways. Needless to say I wish I bought an s30 first but such is life. As per your question so I'm not 100% off topic, as others have said theirs a very very good reason everyone tells you to get Mckinney mounts. Its because its a great "drop in ready" mount. All the work that the older members had to do in the beginning is done already, you really get what you pay for, and compared to the price of building the rest of the car its just a drop in the bucket.

Nice updates making some great progress. I think i missed it but what diff did you end up going with? I've been scheming on paper for a while now how I want to build my car when I end up starting the project but I'm stuck at the diff, there's so many options it gets rather confusing

I think I would be more concerned with height than anything else, even if the engine itself just clears the hood you still need to account for the intake which is top mounted and quite high off the block...that is if you were to stick with the factory intake. It looks to me like that intake rises a good 4-6 inches above the block at the highest point

Well look on the bright side, at least you pissed yourself off calm and not destructive . Glad it worked out.

In my opinion, on top of what was said about price and generally good things about the powertrain, a lot of the reason that you dont see as many hybrid Z33's is this generations lack of interest in real heavy and in depth modifications to cars. That being said there will always be people that love it, but I've begun to notice fewer and fewer interesting cars when i go to car shows and what not. Its all simple mods or bolt on kits, no innovation. But thats just my speculation.

Your gonna love the wideband. I have one too, its ridiculously accurate. I went to tune with my old FD, my tuner asked me how much i paid because it was reading exactly what his dyno was picking up and just as quickly.

From what I've seen and read about the chassis, the float is most likely coming from lack of downforce in the front end, a cheap and simple idea might also to install front canards into the bumper to help push the front down end. I know when I had my FD I used to get a little front end float at around 120 but once I installed the front lip it went away. Just a thought to consider at the least.

Hmmmm...well anything is possible of course, looking at the pictures of the engine, its definitely going to be real tight, and besides your original concerns, I think height might play a factor in everything as well, intake included But more importantly, whats the cost on these setups? knowing BMW you might break bank just trying to get an engine set. Its a really cool idea though, and I certainly would love to see it...reminds me when I had the idea of getting a 360 modena engine and putting it in my old Rx7, which would have been awesome and possible.....till i found out the cost of the engine alone lol Oh well, i can dream right? lol