budgy

I actually dreamed last night that I had a twin cam head for my L28, this thread is affecting me mentally and most likely affecting my wallet in the future.

Are those #'s basically an old school bench dyno? Still impressive no matter what just curious how much this would actually put down to the tires.

Perfect example of why so many efficient engines simply do not need a lot of 'boost'...high PSI levels is not exactly 'good' if it isn't required, its simply a measurement of restriction and not flow. Tony I hate to ask in this thread but regarding the bottom end of your typical stroker L28 is there any real reason why the bottom end cannot be reliably taken to 8500 RPM other than crankshaft vibrations? I know its simply good insurance to get a really good dampener like an ATI, I am just curious why very few people run a stroker crank past say 6.5~7K is it the valve train set up in the factory head that simply has a hard time keeping up? I mean I know most people don't go past there with a mild camshaft because it simply doesn't produce power past that point, but just curious how reliable the bottom end is.

I am only more excited than ever to see flow numbers because it shows you are committed to getting this done. I bought a spare VQ35HR that I was planning on swapping some day...this seems just sooo much more appealing. This may seem like a dumb question but what kind of options do you plan to have available for head gaskets?

Obviously getting the exhaust side to flow a little better is going to be key but really the intake side is insane, don't quote me on this but I used to read a lot about K20A heads back in the day when they were new on the scene and stock they are flowing perhaps 280~285CFM on intake side.

I am going to assume there must have been given that a factory VQ35DE produces at the crank what he is putting to the wheels on the dynojet. Would love to hear a sound clip! I picked up a VQ35HR that needs to be built for a swap and I am really heavily considering the ITB's.

Body panels themselves have very little effect on the chassis twisting if at all. The weight lost if anything might reduce the stress on the chassis because it is not strictly power that harms anything it is GRIP with lots of power behind it that causes these kinds of issues. So if you put sticky tires on the back end which I am assuming you will because you are running a V8 then you should reinforce the chassis somehow. Bad Dog Frame rails and/or a cage would probably be worth it.

Anything in the 12's is moving pretty good. But there is an enormous difference between 12.0 and 12.9. I bet there are actually a ton of guys that are breaking into the 12's.

I too would think 300 horsepower would be on the low side of things. K24 engines with K20 heads (and obviously high compression and bigger cams) are making over 300 WHP. Not sure how the K20 bottom end compares to an L-series...

Really wondering now what the OP did in the end lol.

Yeah I think you are bang on, I have also heard that the size of the filter really needs to be about 2.5 x the size of the opening for maximum efficiency. I may try one more option for individual filters that solves both issues; http://www.inglese.com/ing/8-snap-in-stack-filters-chrome-top-for-billet-or-efi-stackshtml/ How do you like the ITG foam setup?

Haha indeed! I love your airbox and filter. If anyone is curious the filters shown in my last picture I literally just put on the car as I was not using the air horns before but rather had the box K&N filters for each carb. These new filters do not flow nearly as well, dropped my AFR's right into the 10's at WOT, so I have taken my horns off for the time being, back to the drawing board for me

Some incredible looking engine bays in this thread. Finally got mine a lot cleaner than when I originally picked up my Z a couple years ago. Still need a coolant overflow tank and an oil catch can to complete, also just picked up some new air filters for the velocity stacks that I have not seen anyone else running. Anyone know of a low profile (depth wise, 2.5" or less) electric fan? I have a 12" on my Koyo Radiator and it is still running a little hotter than I would like.

Don't really have an explanation for your idle difference, just wanted to say if your car is going to be on blocks for a while you are better of just doing the typical 'storage' preparations and NOT starting the engine up periodically.

+++ Infinity. I know you say this head is being made for durability and not power but I cannot wait to see some figures even knowing there are obviously tons of variables at play. If you can hit good numbers on pump gas I bet a lot of V8 guys would even get jealous over the 'cool' factor

Only thing these guys need to make is a rear hub to match the sexy front one they make

Just wondering who will be the first to try and get one of these into their Z? http://www.autoblog.com/2014/11/17/ford-shelby-gt350-mustang-la-2014-video/ I wonder if the flat plane crank will make the engine too wide....

If Mazworks could make a billet L28 with water jackets id be all over that. I am pretty sure that one there is only built for drag racing, and has to cool down after every pass.

Yeah I would not be too discouraged by a lack of commitment so early on, I bet even a lot of Honda guys would want to buy an S30 if this was an option they knew existed, they all know how much power K-Series can make.

Any interest in making a manifold that works with say Weber or Mikuni triple carbs as well? I wonder if everyone would want to run ITB's and fuel injection or not...then again if thats where the power is..... Incredible thread, very interested to see where it goes. If I thought I could have a 300WHP L28 that was streetable (91 octane, dont really care if the idle is lumpy) I would probably forgo the idea of a LS swap in which case 10 grand really seems like a steal for something so unique and still ultimately very fast

Awesome story about the motor, you should show that guy your car someday when its all done and buy him a beer!

Keep the project alive. I just read almost the entire thread today, it either makes me want to rush to get an LS3 swap and restore on the way. Or say eff that noise and keep my money in the bank. But in any event what you are doing is totally droolworthy and is the kind of thing that makes people dream about doing their perfect car build. The fact that you have owned the car for as long as you have is really the icing on the cake, I can't wait to see the end result you will probably be the happiest guy on earth the day that happens

Haha sorry to hijack the thread buddy, I will go back to eating my popcorn and reading Thank you Jon for the suggestions.

Sorry, specifically below 3500RPM its like the car just stutters and feels very digital either on or off, the car might buck back and forth as the power comes on for a moment before it gets cut again. Any other driving has been smooth and throttle response is snappy. I am more so worried if running 87 octane is asking for problems, and if running 91 would be better. Can you think of a reason to not run 91 octane other than cost?

Hello fellas, terribly sorry if this question is already covered somewhere else (I tried searching). I recently picked up a 240Z with a 3.1 stroker build and triple mikuni carbs. As far as I can tell the head was rebuilt with schneider cams but I really do not know what duration/lift they have (I do have old receipts I should try to pour through). Compression ratio is also unknown. The previous owner was a younger guy, he claimed the car ran like shit on 93 or 91 octane and to just use 87. From what I am reading on the forums and from what I already believed to be true it seems like there would be no downside to running 91 octane gas other than a slightly higher cost. I have never seen anyone on here with a stroker build claim they use less than premium 91 octane fuel. That being said I have only put 87 in since I bought the thing and it has not been driven much at all other than the ride home that was like 800 miles. Car seems to be running great other than having a hard time starting in cold weather (which now that it's in heated storage I will never do again). And sometimes if you try to rag on the car from fairly low RPM's it has a stutter, I am not sure if that's the normal for a car with high lift cams and only single overhead valves or whether it might be caused by simply what I am feeding this thing. Any advice as far as what I should do? Do you need more info in order to give proper advice?