rossman
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Posts posted by rossman
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Hmm, that's a tough one. Anything you sandwich will conduct heat. You could try some ceramic washers/bushings at the bolt locations then place self-adhesive radiant barrier in the gap made by the washers, extending an inch or so around. Wrapping the turbine with a turbo blanker will help with radiant heat too.
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I can't say that I've seen a turbo mounted rigidly to the body of the car. A couple of thoughts come to mind. Your bracket is going to transfer quite a bit of heat into the strut tower from conducted and radiant heat. Be prepared for paint to burn off and rust appear if you don't isolate the mount and protect the strut tower from with radiant heat shields. It's hard to tell from your pictures but the flex pipe you have leading up to the turbine appears to be one of those flexible tail pipes (not bellows). I don't think those are designed to take much or any pressure, especially when flexing due to the engine naturally moving on its engine mounts. I could be wrong but it may not last long. Anyway, good luck with it and let us know how it works! Maybe I'm full of shite, it would be the first time
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You're not the first and probably won't be the last to make that mistake!
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I think you're mixing metric and English units. Nissan spec is .008" and .010" (inches) cold. So you need to make the clearance smaller thus raising the post.
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Nice! How is the flow out the center vent? I modded my 240 vent similarly but most of the air comes out the two side vents. I've thought about redoing mine with smooth hose to see it flow improves.
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Congrats for getting her on the road!
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I’d be pulling the front end apart until I found the culprit. Try taking a tube like an empty paper towel core, put your ear to it and move it around the area with the engine running to see if you can isolate the location of the sound. If you shine a flashlight down into the front cover you can see if the chain tensioner is in place.
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Have you pulled the valve cover and checked to see if anything looks abnormal? Could the timing chain tensioner have fallen out of place? It's impossible to know without actually being there or hearing it in a quick video.
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Wow! That first one will make a nice looking bookend! I bet the aluminum plate (6061-T6?) wasn't cheap. Seems like they would have started with cheaper material for the first article. Regardless, it'll be a very nice piece when done!
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Seems like you'd have oil burning out the exhaust, especially just after a cold start if your valve stem seals are bad.
You could try retorquing your head bolts in case your problem is a head gasket leak into the crankcase.
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Most people including myself, simply plumb both the valve cover and block vents to a catch can.
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The mustache bar should go on the aft side of the suspension uprights with the bushings facing forward...at least that is how it is on my setup with r200, 280z uprights, ttt mustache bar.
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@Dat73z Aaah, you are correct!! I went back and looked at my calcs and realized that I remembered incorrectly, it's been a couple of years... It is in fact the G30-660 that I was looking at. I feel better too that ATP agreed with my independent assessment :).
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I'm looking forward to your feedback on the performance of the G series turbo. I am considering exact same one for my setup [edit: actually it is the G30-660 that I'm considering]. Looking at the compressor map it looks to be a great turbo for a decent flowing 3 liter L6.
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Nice, glad to see you're at it.
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I'm running the ttt mustache bar too. My setup didn't need the spacer nor did I have to remove the studs and use bolts. It all lined up well as best as I can tell. My setup is a z31t long nose r200/diff cover, z31t cv half shafts, rt mount, and ttt mustache bar.
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My guess is that you either fried the afm or ecu. There is a step by step diagnostics in the FSM. I would walk through that process.
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There are similar marks on my 3.0 rebello turbo after only a few thousand street miles. Weird.
I'm no engine expert but I have read that it can be caused by the pistons getting too hot possibly due to knock/detonation, expanding excessively, and rubbing on the cylinder bores.
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Glad to hear you're still at it and looking forward to updates!
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1 hour ago, Dat73z said:
Do you recall which Jeep mount you used?
Actually, I think I got confused with the diff mount that I used. I did a bit of searching and I believe it is a GM transmission mount like this one: https://teamenergysuspension.com/product/energy-suspension-3-1108r-transmission-mount/. Dimensions of the mount can be found with a quick Google search.
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I would replace that stock transmission mount with a solid poly mount. The mount I'm using is from some sort of Jeep...I believe. I've slept a few times since then :D.
All I had to do was slot the two mounting holes to make it fit the transmission (z32).
I wouldn't sweat those marks on the clutch and PP.
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I meant to reply earlier but yah, I think you put too much grease in there. There is a diagram in Haynes and probably the FSM showing how much grease to put in there.
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Nice! My son got one of those for his l6 build. It's definitely a nice manifold.
Are you simply drilling a hole in the manifold flange or slotting it so that you can pull the manifold without opening the coolant system?
I would avoid cutting all the way thru the manifold flange. I did that on mine and it immediately bowed out of plane due to the internal stresses from all the welding. I managed to bold it on as-is without straightening/stress relieving it but it's not ideal.
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4 hours ago, Dat73z said:
Thanks @rossman that is what I was thinking as well but I believe the nuts are copper coated for corrosion protection and not fully copper, they are these from atp
I would think that you would be good with those nuts, from a secondary back-out prevention perspective, but they may rust eventually after the copper burns off. It's best to know the materials so you can torque them properly. If you go with Inconel, you're going to need high strength nuts so you can get the torque high enough to stretch the stud and preload the joint.
280z resto advice needed!
in Nissan L6 Forum
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Sage advice from NewZed. I will add, regarding cams, that it's best to get a re-round cam not new. There is a guy named Bonk on the Fakebook forum "Church of the L". He sells custom re-ground cams and appears to have lots of happy customers on the forum. If you do use him he can give you some advice on setting up/running in the cam properly - as it's easy to do it wrong and trash the cam. Otherwise there is a lot of information on this forum on how to do it properly, you just have to dig a bit to find it (I use a Google search - "search term site:hybridz.org" When it comes to rockers, you want NOS or OEM/NISSAN, not regrinds. I have had reground rockers trash themselves and the cam. I installed new Nissan rockers and haven't had any issues since.