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7MGFORCE

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Posts posted by 7MGFORCE

    Whose got the cleanest white Z? Help me decide my next project. fc or S30

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by 7MGFORCE

    My datsun 260z is finished and not really happy how everything turned out. I got too carried away with the dreaming and it ended up away from what I wanted lol so my turbo 302 is up for sale.

     

     

    Basically ended up w/ a drag set up that I grew out off lol

     

     

     

     

    Looking for my next project and im down to TWO options.

     

    Either another s30(my case id go 240z or 260z) or a fc3s rx7.

     

     

    Im really liking the white in my cars so this time im going for looks first then mod the engine.(usually the other way around for me lol)

     

     

    Looking for clean White S30 to compare to help me decide which I want to go with. I want to have an idea of what I can potentially make it look like.

     

     

    Found this RX7 that is clean IMO and If I go that route this will be my base plan.

    Nice clean and simple. Reminds me of my old mk3 supra lol

    DSC_0035copy2.jpg

     

     

    as Far as S30

     

    I found one that I like but im sure theres more out there. Im aiming for stock body w/ bumper/kit but NOT widebody or any major body mod.

     

    s30-white01.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Wichever I go with will end up with a 4g63 engine or 4.8 LS so power plant concern isnt an issue.

     

     

     

    Each have their own advantages but this thread is focused more on deciding on which Id go with looks wise.

     

     

    thanks for any help

    need some idea to compensate for front heavy turbo v8 240z- I want it to handle.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    If the v8 was stuffed back as far as possable it should be fine.You really need to weigh it and finding some wheel scales for setting up a race car are the best.A local v8 z was weighed before and after a v8 swap and the car gained 100lbs on the back.this was a gen 1 chevy sbc.

     

    Ya it's pushed back as far as I could but when I switch to lower mount I could have pushed it 1 or 2 inch back but it would require me to rebuilds my turbo exhaust piping b/c of the limited space so I left it like that.

     

    What kind of chevy? And full iron or aluminum?

     

    I know my turbo kit adds about 100-150 lbs. I put a 15" and 10" sub where my spare tire use to go as well as an amp on the back but I glast it so not much weight added. I will also relocate the battery on the back but that empty space where the batt is now will be taken up by methanol injection container.

     

    I would get aluminum heads but I ran out of funds after my diy turbo kit.

     

     

    Where do you guys go to get the weight? I know a weighing station but that's all the weight not divided.

    need some idea to compensate for front heavy turbo v8 240z- I want it to handle.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    well this car was intentionally build for straight line performance. I mean i even fitted 325/50r15 tires on the back. so handling was really not in the plans.

     

    anyways times changing and so is my minds.

     

    I want the car to handle... but i dont want to loose my turbo v8 power.

     

    I havent taken it to a weight station but im pretty positive its front heavy.

     

    suspension wise it has tokico springs and shock and poly bushing all around. front end is fully done including new tie rods. the rear is next.

     

    now obviously the 325 wont be on the car when it set up for handling but im thinking in the lines of 275 front and 315 back.

     

    what do you guys think? what else can i do to make it handle good? nothing crazy just enough to be fun at the twisty/backroad

    Odd heater issues on my 74 early 260z

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Hmmm... I never noticed it doing that on mine. Not to say it dosen't. It must have a purpose. I still think you should be able to slide the top selector to the first click to heat, and slide your hot/cold selector all the way to hot (to the right) and turn your fan switch on, and get hot air coming out of the unit.

     

    If you slide the top selector all the way to the right, that's for defrost, correct?

     

    Something tells me the problem still may lay in the vacuum lines. that's the most common trouble causing issue with these hivac systems.

     

    Sorry I couldn't help you any further...

     

    Yes so basically from the right (defroster) side the first two click turns of the fan. After that the mix of hot n cold is half power.

     

    Does our heater require a vacuum from the engine bay? Because I have no vacuum that leads inside.

     

    Also the vacuum lines are located behind the climate control?

     

    Thanks

    Odd heater issues on my 74 early 260z

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    So I got my car running with a carb v8 so most engine wiring are gone.

     

    I tried using my heater today but when I put it on heat the thing does not even blow any air. If I put the temp on cold it blows cold air.

     

    Is there a switch to activate the hot air fan?

     

    I just flushed the heater core and it's not clog.

     

    I got this shell as a non working so I don't know if it had work before the swap.

     

    Any ideas on what wiring of switch to check?

    Welded diff and 315 tires?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I agree. You've spent lot of money doing the hybrid swap and are making a lot of power. Why cheap out when it comes to traction?

     

    Spend some time searching for a used clutch pack LSD to install in your long nose R200. They come up for sale from time to time with prices from $500 to $800. You can also purchase new with a OS Giken Super Lock for around $1,500.

     

    because the whole swap including the (rust free) shell purchased cost me 2800 :mrgreen:

     

    Mustang 5.0 plus big giant turbo is great for cheap and powerful car. That and the skill to weld things up (hint why I was asking about welding-it would be free for me lol)

     

    but will look into the clsd more. thanks

    Welded diff and 315 tires?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    The clutches are cheap and with all the info and even write-ups with pictures, a Chimp could do it in a few hours (that takes out your "it cost more to install" excuse).

     

    But that is exactly what doesnt make sense, you want a cheap solution... yet when a clsd ($200), if you have to add clutches ($50), and taking a few hours to put them in (FREE). So for 250 your problem is fixed, and there are guys alot faster than your car is running this setup with great success (I believe high 7 and low 8 second passes have been done with an r200) so you should have no problem.

     

    But instead you say "guess i'll have to dig deep for the r230 swap" ...like I said before, there's no use. I've proven it otherwise as many on this site have and even suggested otherwise because of owning cars that had welded difs (DRIFT cars not street cars), theres even a guy who recently sent his car into a curb on here that did so because his dif was welded (that should say something to you).

     

    But all in all its your decision we are just here to add opinion and Try to help you out, doesn't make much sense to ask a question, get an answer (backed up by facts), then throw it aside....but do what you do and good luck fixing your problem.

     

    -Jeff

    I looked at that BUT

    First question.

    -Where do you get the clutches? I had considered that option but found out that the clutches was a group buy that was over. so where so i get a hold of those clutches?

     

    ^^ The main reason I didn't look into it further b/c from the sticky it holds up to about 400trq. Since the group buy was over for the clutches, adding clutches was not possible. But since you seem to know where I can get them post a link please thanks.

     

     

    And again the reason I "throw it aside" is because I was not aware that there are clutches made now.

    Welded diff and 315 tires?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Thanks guys. I thought that a 315 wide tires would solve that problem. Lesson learned.

     

    I guess I will try the weld and see how it goes. if I don't like it I will just have to reach deep in my pocket to install r230.

     

    Btw I already have 300zx cv installed with my longnose r200.

    Thanks

    Welded diff and 315 tires?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    do some learning....i can explain it till im blue but it looks like you are wanting someone "to prove you wrong" and i am not here to argue, tires dont come with a rating i can light up a set of 315's with my mild L28 just like i can a 215's its call rpms and a clutch. (theres my mini arguement)

     

    Actually I was just asking if loosing traction could be minimize with 315 vs 225 tire. That's all. LSD is the way to go that I know but cost is another thing.

    Welded diff and 315 tires?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    The thing is the diff itself is cheap but the parts cost to install it is expensive.

     

    I'm not worked about tire wear I just want to know if it would have issues on turns even with 315 wide tires.

     

    And how much are those rated for I thought it was less than 500 ft torque?

     

    I figured r200 that are welded would be a lot stronger assuming the welds holds up.

    Welded diff and 315 tires?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I need a stronger diff for my v8 560wtrq so I'm thinking of welding my r200 for the posi traction and the strengtt.

     

    I'm concerned about taking corners as it's mostly street driven with ocational backroad drag.

     

    But with 315 back tires do you think I'll have thesame problem with re back end always breaking loose?

    what kind of rubber hose would hold under torque? cliftons mount style.

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    okay so I think it was clifton who thought of this.

     

    so i have welded two "tabs" or "ear" on my differential mount and a bolt that go across both.(basically stops/limits the lift of the front side of the diff under acceleration.)

     

     

    well I put a heater hose on the bolt to lower the noise and well 1000 miles later the heater hose was cut in the middle.(street driving with few quick take off)

     

    so now i need a new hose or some sort of rubber that wont get cut when the diff.

     

    any ideas on what to put between the bolt and the diff mount?

     

    this is on a 290wtrq 302 ford.

    Strongest IRS Differential

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    curious do you think the whole C4 IRS swap will hold?

     

    http://www.scottiegnz.com/corvette_irs_swap.html

     

     

    anyways

     

    on the side note i think your question has been kinda solve from the supraforums.

     

    30 psi on a launch? That may be your issue right there. Now I don't have experience with your setup, I run a complete different setup... but I would try backing down the boost off the launch and maybe increase the launch rpm if you are bogging. Are you running a manual or auto?

     

     

    I also think that maybe you should lower the pressure on launch 30 psi is alot to launch from. as already suggested as well lower your boost off the line and simply add more after launch.

     

    seeing that your not getting faster and just braking parts i think its time to rethink your launching plan

    I need ideas to cover bumper.

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Okay so I removed the front bumper of my 240z and have a huge intercooler up front. Now I can't figure out how to cover the bumper side. I don't want the bumper up front I like the look without it but the side where the turn signal goes looks dumb because the bumper used to go there.

     

    Any ideas on how to cover it? I want something that screw on nothing that would involve permanent change(in case I get a fix it ticket or something)

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