Sirk.240

I like the arguments. I am pretty much on a budget.. I'm a porter at a nissan dealership here in Orlando and go to school at night. In a few months they were talking about moving me to a service writer then to a tech when I get out of school. SO... I appreciate all of the opinions, I knew it was a good idea to ask here, because well... you guys have been there and done that. I think I will put together the L28 as cheaply as possible, focusing on oil control/cooling and coolant control/cooling. (need to figure a way to get better cooling with that damn head) Then go as all out as I can on suspension and brakes. Damn you guys are always helpful! Thank you, again. Kris~

Okay, so here it is. I'd like to get some opinions on if i should dump the L28 and go RB. I'm not sure if I should post this here but given that several of you have already gone down that road you will most likely have a different out look than me. Going RB seems like an ass load of work, but for what I want is it worth it? Info: I am wanting to build the car to take to a local road course, and maybe some larger events if I can bring my self to pay the extreme prices that tracks charge. I want the car to be extremely responsive and have a wide power range to play with while on the track. I also wouldn't mind taking it out on the weekend and leaving daddy's boy in the Vett. 8 cars back. I have the L28 built with forged pistons, lightened crank and the whole rotating assembly balanced. A good family friend that used to race Z's back in the 80's put together a beautiful head for me, and I have a gt28 71R turbo. I'm lacking manifolds, fuel system, and ECU to get it together. My thoughts: I'm afraid that I will be limited to the power that I can achieve out of the L28. But at the same time I'm not looking for a dyno queen or a straight line car. The RB has a lot more support and a lot more aftermarket parts available for it. But the swap (after adding everything up) seems like it would quite costly. I work full time, but I go to school full time and pay for a little out of pocket. I'm not looking to spend an outrageous amount on the motor because I would like to do a few upgrades to the under body (suspension, brakes, sub-frame). That's what I have so far, I've been scrolling through, reading posts in the RB forum and it looks interesting. Let me know what you think I should go with. Thanks guys.

Alright, I've searched the forums for the actual fitment of the different injectors into the manifold and the pallnet fuel rail but have found nothing but tech posts on saturation / peak and hold. I am looking for injectors that will fit into the factory manifold holes and put the pallnet rail on top. I was looking at injectors on this web site. http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMODS.asp#siemens Any ideas, links to a post that explains it, that I missed? Kris~

I guess when it comes to body styling. I would take a wild guess and say the g-nose is more aerodynamic than the original front bumper, but. The g-nose to me makes the front of the car SO much longer, that it starts to get goofy looking. The front end is already super long, adding 4 or 5 inches to the total length only in the front, it just does not do it for me. But yes, I plan on taking it off super clean. And once I decide that I wouldn't miss it anymore then I'll post it. Because I still can't imagine what it looks like without it.

Not really. All they did was just use Bondo to blend the bottom edge in. The whole nose is bolted on. I'm glad you like the g-nose, but i don't. I absolutely love the wide-body, but not the g-nose. Which is why I'm asking.

Might be it, I bought it... near 7 or 8 years ago. Got it from somewhere in south florida, near here (orlando) i think. No... I <3 my car. lol And yes, it had triple webbers on it. Got tired of tuning them, so i'm going new age.

Nice, nice. One problem. My 260 has a full widebody. I don't know if the factory front end will even line up with the fenders Tampa is only an hour away, and I called Z docs. Next week i'm going to bring him pictures and look at what he has. Here are the only pictures I have of the car. Yes, i know it's sad.. but my brother is finally going to bring it down to orlando now that i have a garage setup so i can finally finish it!! If i can get it to work out, I will be selling the G-nose if anyone in the florida area is interested. Also ditching the rear vents, taking out the lexan rear window and putting tempered in.. so i can tint it as well. Let me know if you guys have seen this kit and know if the factory 240 or 260 front end will fit with these fenders. Really crappy pictures, but I will have my baby back this sunday and I will take pictures of the whole front end and post them. Kris~ Btw your grill turned out nice!

Oh good deal. Yes, The g-nose uses the 240 lower mount turn signals. Tight work! Thank you!

Just checking. Will the front of a 240z 70-73 fit on my 74.5 260? I am taking the G-nose off and I am wanting to put the factory front back on it with possibly an air dam. Wanted to know if 70 through 79 would all bolt on. Kris~

Alright guys, I am trying to figure out what head I have on my 73 FairLady. The numbers on the head are E30, and I can't find anything on the forums through the search. Just trying to gather some info, thanks guys Kris~

If you want something to rag, drift, or drag, then yeah. But it doesn't look like something you'd want to dump money in to restore

I think a 0 offset But don't take my word for it.

I think it looks pretty good. Less rusty than my fairlady. They make paint meter to actually read the depth between where you place the meter and the metal underneath. Not sure how much they are but it'd be handy if you could tag one.

Well I'm sure you know he has bought another 951, a yellow one. He has a 3.0L he is going to de-stroke to a 2.7 and hopefully he will get a set of ITBs. It would help that car greatly. Actually, do you know of an old Z around here that has good rear fenders? I need them for the fairlady, they are all bondo . Kris~

We don't have any well sponsored events around here. Or... at least advertised events. Not to mention rust free conditions would be nice