thetremendoustim
-
Posts
116 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by thetremendoustim
-
-
bump...please...
-
You need to read other threads and also read the grammar and punctuation rules for this site.
The rods are fine, you can check them just in case for out of round, or check for torsions. Stock rods are capable for up to 400 HP? Anyhow, some people run forged pistons with stock rods because they are very resilient. Every other L28et rebuild related questions have already been asked and answered.
-
I have searched, and I have read atlanticz's spring calibration. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html
Here are some numbers for the N/A L28 tension required for the Air Flow Meter (AFM)
149 ml required for swiper to reach the half-way mark. Testing my newly acquired turbo AFM there was only exactly 50ml required to move the swiper to the halfway mark. What is going on?? Is there ANY input, if someone did a picture recorded test with their turbo AFM it would save me so much time and well, is too late for money because I bought this AFM for $25...
-
For anyone who is wondering about cockerstar, he is a honest guy and really willing to help. I'm sorry I questioned his integrity and I retract any statements made in frustration. I humbly apologize for tainting your reputation.
the united states post office SUCKS
-
Detailed Results:
Bullet Processed through Sort Facility, February 28, 2010, 9:44 pm, BELL, CA 90201
Bullet Processed through Sort Facility, February 24, 2010, 12:34 pm, HAZELWOOD, MO 63042
Bullet Acceptance, February 18, 2010, 1:39 pm, KENNEWICK, WA 99336
hahahahahah wtf united states???
-
thanks cockerstar for the reply, I didn't get a chance to check anything this weekend but that sure is disappointing that its in Missouri...I'll give them a call and see what's up...Thanks for looking up that stuff and for everything you've done.
-
I haven't received any messages from anyone since the new board update, and I have gone through and made sure that I have less than 100 messages total in my inbox. I thought it was rather weird, since I tend to get several messages every day, but I haven't been selling anything since I sold the ECU and AFM to you. I definitely shipped them out to you via USPS.
I've been buying and selling on here ever since I got my Z and joined, and I've been selling elsewhere online since 2003. Haven't had an issue I couldn't resolve fairly quickly yet
Send me an email at ryan.p.a.clark@gmail.com, and I can discuss things further with you.
Has anyone else been having issues with PM's since the update?
edit: I just went through to look at my PM's. When I went through a few hours after the update our private message limit had been dropped from 200 down to 100. Now it seems like it's been dropped down to 50 since then...
In the process of cutting it down some more.
okay i'm very frustrated with how long it is taking!!! But still in question: what happens if somebody pays and the other person never even had the item, is it just a "he-said / she-said" case or what? I'm sure this has happened before, so what happens next?
-
Okay I bought an ECU and AFM from cockerstar 2 weeks ago...he said he shipped them out and i haven't received any messages back...i'm not saying he hasn't shipped but it shouldn't take 8 days to get a package from washington to california. I'm not accusing him of anything, but lets just say that someone has gotten screwed in a deal, how would you go about getting your money back, or some form of justice even though you've already paypaled the person? I've grown very impatient and extremely frustrated as you can imagine...
-
Hi all, is there a checklist somewhere which lists what it would take to put a L28ET into a 71 240z and make it run properly...
If someone could please direct me. I'd really appreciate it...
Thanks,
dude good luck i dont think i've ever even heard of that before!! You can try it but its a long shot man
-
since your cap was open, maybe you had a small leak to the flapper door from the carbon track area which let excess air in -> bad reading -> symptoms
-
You know this has put my car out of commission for around 5 weeks now, and I will be so happy when I can get it resolved! I just want to have it running for a while, and first major electrical component that goes out, i'll probably switch to Megasquirt
When I get the AFM from cockerstar, I will let you know first thing! Thanks for you advice!!
-
THank you for your replies! I'm VERY thankful that you guys are trying to help me out, really I am!
Yes, I've done a resistance check on the CHTS and it is very much working. My AFM I'm extremely dodgy about, I had it running when I tweaked it 5 teeth richer, and I'm not quite sure if the "factory" setting it was originally at was factory at all. The PO really messed with it, I had a plethora of problems because I had to adjust the flap to touch the carbon strip a while back, it wasn't even touching!! Don't ask me how, but I'm still pretty suspicious...I ordered one from cockerstar though, so I"ll see how that one treats me. I've tested every component just like the FSM says.
Its a '82 L28et with a non-hydraulic head and a Non-egr intake manifold. Other than that, everything is stock and freshly rebuilt by the hands that can't even get it drivable
:fmad: I tell you what, it sure is frustrating.Yes its giving all the signs of "lean": It doesn't accelerate good at all and letting off the throttle gives it that "freshly fueled" deceleration sound.
The TPS has been adjusted to just about every possible comination. The way my haynes says to adjust it is with a feeler gauge to the stopper screw, but the screw has been moved so I'm not sure how to about that, so I adjusted it using the cut off at 900 RPM part.
When I unplug the 02 sensor nothing changes.
When I unplug the TPS idle rises but still acceleration is terrible.
When I unplug the CHTS it runs very nicely but WITH LOAD it bogs out and coughs and sputters.
This is all pointing to some weird AFM problem, don't you think?
-
Okay this might be fuel and it might be electrical, I got drivable, but here's the thing:
Engine warm:
With the CHTS unplugged it will drop idle 4* to around 24* and ANY throttle will drop it to 30+
With the CHTS plugged IN It will idle at 20* (which is what I set it to) and ANY throttle will advance it to 10*
YUCK!!!
I cleaned ALL my electrical contacts, maybe a ground is off somewhere? Maybe the gremlins are having a field day in my engine bay.
-
Well I changed the wires which didn't really do much, it still pops and sputters alot on accelleration, but it DOES drive much better with the CHTS unplugged! If i plug the CHTS back in, it drops the idle and sometimes dies right there.
-
This site originally had a L28et instead of VG but its the same concept. Luckily, I downloaded it maybe a year ago (I have a dedicated hard drive for Z information I'm trying to compile, carfiches, diagrams, AFM rebuilds, etc)
Anyways, read this, He gives good examples of what you should be looking for for low end power AND high end power. Make a map of your engine (I have a l28et map if you want) and just plot it according to each compressor map. Most major turbine companies such as Garrett (turbobygarrett.com) have maps available on their websites.
If you're looking for that glued to your seat feeling, perhaps invest in a quick spool turbo and a larger ratio rear end. I hope i wasn't redundant, just trying to give you my .03
-
Those JC Whitney ones look REAL good especially with the stock interior door panels!!
Heres my setup:
-
I seem to be having the same problem as a LOT of other l28et posts that i've read (iowa280zx). I already have a FPG hooked up (harbor freight
) and its reading 30 PSI at idle, and I'm also getting that sputtering burping sound as I accelerate but its hitting the 36 psi mark. Deceleration sounds like a normal engine (when i let off accelerator) but if I accelerate it farts and pops and burps. I've tried everything, my AFM is clean and grounded, my TPS is questionably tuned and my vacuums are snug as a bug in a rug. SHouldn't it be running 36 PSI constantly through all situations? Does the 6PSI at idle make a difference, and If it does go up to 36 PSI why doesn't it give me power like it should? This is driving me up a wal!!
:fmad: -
Maybe they're like the spacers... are they around .005-.01" thick? I have no idea, that's my best idea although they look too skinny to be spacers. Its weird one is noncontinuous (broken?) too
-
Hey garvice, did you ever figure out your problem? I'm curious as to how your setup ended up working out and what the final problem was!
-
Yes! I bought innectors from this guy and wow I got a ridiculous deal and so far I'm pretty pleased with them!! They look old as hell but I'm pleased!!
-
If you get an early year manifold it won't accommodate for the EGR, however you will have to make sure the ports match up and aren't square. I have a N42 manifold and its pretty handy, just had to block off a couple of the unused vacuums and grab a webbing since I'm not a big fan of heatsoaking.
-
Finally got fed up and grabbed it at the base with some curved vise grips and spun it off.
-
I have no way of measuring my AFR since Im stock electronics and have a narrowband. Unless someone knows of a way to other than those cheapie rainbow LEDs or color strips...But I did adjust my AFM 5 teeth richer and its pretty pig rich right now. Tomorrow I'm going to adjust the AFM back to its "stock" setting (it had a glued on cover when I got it so Im not sure whats going on with it), try to get my TPS figured out (haynes
) and once again adjust my timing...I was adjusting it yesterday and for some reason when I put the throttle down it went UP to 10* btdc instead of down like it should. Anyways I got a questions, can I just run 20* at idle? What is the total timing (max *BTDC) on a L28et?It IS a fresh rebuild and I will be adjusting my valve lash, but other than the Im pretty sure the timing is spot on, is there any other way to check top end timing?
When I assembled the engine I aligned the camshaft notches in the back with the tower notch, and I made sure the lobes were at 10 and 2, I put my crank at TDC and aligned my shiny chain teeth, that's all there is to it right?
ahhhh so many questions...so much frustration
My cylinder temperatures are remarkably low, I was reading about other peoples temperatures and mine range from 160-180* F... With my head being hotter, just a little note.
-
why is this in this section??? snap on is meant for like hundreds of hours of use per month, but harbor freight will work fine imo i used harbor freight and they turned out real clean!!
:fmad:
) and its reading 30 PSI at idle, and I'm also getting that sputtering burping sound as I accelerate but its hitting the 36 psi mark. Deceleration sounds like a normal engine (when i let off accelerator) but if I accelerate it farts and pops and burps. I've tried everything, my AFM is clean and grounded, my TPS is questionably tuned and my vacuums are snug as a bug in a rug. SHouldn't it be running 36 PSI constantly through all situations? Does the 6PSI at idle make a difference, and If it does go up to 36 PSI why doesn't it give me power like it should? 
Turbo AFM vs N/A AFM Calibration
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
To the people on this website: I'm sorry, my husband has actually committed suicide and left a note saying that I should update you guys on this thread. His turbo AFM problems finally got to him so badly that he had to end it all. Its too bad nobody could just simply perform this 30 minute test, this could all be over with. Now i have to clean up a mess of oil, gasoline and toasted flesh, again I'm so sorry this had to happen.