[exhaust pipe size and cat]

Call up magnaflow and let them know that they would sell more product if they could get approval for larger diameter pipes in addition the the ones recommended for the application.

 

They might simply get approval for the larger diameter.

[1982 280zx Strut Assembly Compatibility]

I'm pretty sure the front stuff is the same with possibly spring rates being the only difference.

 

I know the rear has two different shocks depending on the year but I have put entire spring/shock assembly from late 1982 car into a 1980 car with no issues.

[L28s from datsun-parts ebay store?]

I thought it did pass smog.

 

That said, I would still listen to the testimonials of others receiving dirty parts and incorrect assembly.

[Splitter idea]

Strength of the splitter and whatever it mounts to is important.

 

At the mile racing events, I see between 2 to 5 cars that come back with the splitter either missing or dragging the ground.......including our twin turbo ford GT that failed downward and dragged the runway effectively reversing the intended effect.

 

Since this happened north of 200mph with the car feeling fine to the driver and watching the guys I work with make a pathetic attempt to remount it to components that would surely fail again, I simply removed the splitter and we have been running without it at speeds over 283mph with no ill effects ever since.

 

That said, a Z car is a far different beast and will surely require some sort or dam or splitter to manage the air going under and reduce lift..........just make sure it's strong because having it fail and running over it could end up like the camaro that crashed at the texas mile recently.

[transportation companies?]

Biggest thing is making sure to ship from large cities to large cities or you could very well wait a very long time.

 

I bought a M30 located in Norfolk, Virginia for shipping to west palm beach and two shipping companies could not ship in in 2 months.

 

I flew up to drive the car back down to florida but found that the rear shocks had zero damping that caused the rear wheels to leap off the ground almost a foot on bridges and attracted a huge amount of attention from other drivers.

 

I simply drove it 100miles to washington DC. instead of 900 miles of bouncing like the van in Cheech and Chong's Next Movie and it only took one day to arrange pickup and shipping for 450 bucks.

 

Pricing is one thing but availability is much better in a major metropolitan area.

[rebuilt l28et has no oil flow]

If you add up the total volume of all oil passages, it would probably be more than a quart.

There is a secret squirrel technique to backfeed the pump.

I used some clear plastic tubing and used a plastic tube connector to fit it to a funnel.

Then I removed the oil filter and stuffed the clear tubing into the oil gallery that feeds the filter (not the one in the center but the hole in front of it) by stuffing it in pointing toward the front of the car as much as possible.

I removed the T fitting from the block and screwed the sensor in it's place to ensure no air was being drawn in.

I got it in about 1/2 an inch by squeezing and prodding it after carving a taper into the end with a razor blade.

Then you put a bit of oil in the funnel and crank the engine by hand backwards.

CAREFUL!! some engines with very worn timing chain or tensioner might not like being turned backwards and could possibly skip the chain because turning it backwards will compress the tensioner inward.

You should see the oil going down the clear tube if you leave a bit of an air bubble to use as an indicator of flow.

If you crank half a quart or more and fill the filter, you should get pressure once you put it back together but you might want to do more.

After the priming, I took out the oil pressure sender, reinstalled filter, and watched while cranking with a remote starter switch until I saw oil coming out and quickly put the sender back into the T fitting and reinstalled the turbo oil supply tubing......and cracked loose the 17mm line on the turbo.

Then I cranked it until I saw oil at the turbo.

 

I actually had to do this twice since I did it once and got zero pressure.......because the fully primed pump was bad.

If that happens then you have a bad pump or a pickup that is sucking air since you just guaranteed oil is in the pump by the above proceedure.

I replaced the pump with another I had lying around and repeated the process and got pressure right away while cranking.
 

[twin cam L6 3.4L]

I think both PMC and HowlerMonkey need to post pics and details of their respective 2000hp+ builds, as whilst I don't doubt they can both back up those claims, without proof (which I'm curious to see regardless), this thread could as well be two 12yo's arguing.

 

Dave

 

 

http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/9000/fastest-standing-mile-–-street-car

 

We're going for 300mph in a few months and then will drive the car home.......and through McDonalds drive-thru for some cookies.

 

It's probably the highest mileage ford GT in existence because it is daily driven unless it's in for upgrades.

[Anybody done any smaller displacement VG engines?]

Been checking out some land speed record classes and it seems you can get the VG20 at "under 2.0 liter" and use the vg20 crank in a vg30 at "under 2.5".

 

I was wondering if anybody has played with the various displacements of the VG engines?

 

Results?

[Maxima Diesel part-out for my Z]

I would buy the egr control unit if you had it.

[Blowing fuses (no dash lights)]

About 70% of the times I have seen this, it is after a stereo installation in which one of the OEM wires providing lighting to the original stereo or panel lighting nearby is shorted to ground.

[car runs fine but then acts up and dies after warming up please help]

The timeframe of failure means the part is on the engine and subject to engine heat.

 

Some will refire after "getting over the hump" and run all day just fine..........until the next cold start cycle.

 

This normally points to the electronics in or on the distributor.

[Auto Trans swap from KA engine to L28]

What is the angle of the transmission vs the KA engine as compared to the L engine?

 

I think there might be an angle difference of sorts.

[Freeze Plug Gone!]

Which permatex?

 

I'm not a big fan of the non-hardening brown stuff because I've seen this happen before as well as seen gaskets using non-hardening permatex products actually squeeze out from between the two parts they are sealing a few hours later.

 

You come out the next morning and find gaskets sticking out.

 

Some swear by no sealant at all but that strategy depends on a perfect surface.

 

At toyota, I used only a very thin film of their red threadlocker and installed them right before I went home.

 

I like loctite 603 or 609 now.

[Guys with BOV before throttle]

I walk around the upull yards where you find volvos and saabs and can usually come up with something that is very close to optimal after trimming.

[High RPM shifting dynamics]

I think they make wrenches for inner tie rods on steering racks that might fit the bill......still might come up short, though.

[Oil Cooling Jets for Pistons Anyone?]

Thanks.....any possible sources is good to know.

 

I'll have to use what fits best.

 

I haven't studied the SD engines too much beyond servicing a few forklifts and I've since moved on to boxy cars with two doors simply because it's hard to find body and interior parts for the older rear drive nissans.

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8042/8023620398_c07e14aa62_z.jpg

[Oil Cooling Jets for Pistons Anyone?]

I'll bet this would help the LD28 I am rebuilding for turbo usage.

 

Thanks for blazing the trail for others to follow.

[Fuel in my intercooler]

Cylinder walls are washed down clean of oil by the fuel giving falsely low compression readings?

[Anyone running a compound setup on a L-series]

What does adding 10-psi boost have to do with this at all?  

 

What does adding 1 point of compression have to do with this at all?

 

Your example is missing a lot of data points and it would be necessary to show the configuration of the engine used in your example to even get close to having enough information to prove your point.

 

I relayed real life A vs B comparison with as many variables kept the same as possible.

 

I didn't do one comparison at death valley at 40 degrees and the other at denver at 100 degrees but rather both at sea level at a density altitude of about 18 feet.

 

Tony still has to deliver some sort of proof of all these 1100hp L28s used for endurance racing he mentioned above.

 

 

 

[Fuel in my intercooler]

Change the oil

[1980 280zx Exhaust Questions]

^{I've done it......and I cut an identical relief on the rear valance.}

[Anyone running a compound setup on a L-series]

 

 

Yes, compressing a gas will increase it's temperature, but that's not what we are talking about here.  

 

Increasing the compression ratio will increase combustion efficiency, which by definition means that more of the energy from combustion goes into work at the crank and less goes out the exhaust.  All else equal, you will see lower EGTs with increased compression.

 

In your example there are several unstated and uncontrolled variables that could have caused the results you stated - was the ambient air pressure and temperature exactly the same on that run a week later?  Did you have to change ignition timing to stay below the knock limit with the increased CR?  Did you use different fuel to accommodate the increased CR?

 

You don't have to take my word for it - it's pretty well established thermodynamic rules. Here's a link to a paper from Stanford University that covers the subject nicely:  http://rescomp.stanford.edu/~efroeh/papers/RDH_Engine_Performance.pdf

 

 

Going by the point you made above, 10 pounds of boost to the same engine will increase combustion efficiency decrease the amount of gases exhausted as in your example?

 

If not, what makes it different?

 

Some variables are not being considered.

 

I'm just relaying real life observations through experience gained in the field and tony's stirring the pot.

[Clutch fork won't move]

I've shortened the slave rod twice in my career and can't recommend it without a caveat.

 

On one car, I drove it 40,000 after shortening the rod.

 

On the other car, I drove it 2 weeks before the ball snapped off the transmission because it's 30 years of wear caused a pattern that did not like extra angle of the fork vs ball I had induced by shortening the rod instead of getting everything else correct.

 

You might get away with it but you might not.

[Anyone running a compound setup on a L-series]

I've compared my car with stock F54 and flattops (stock), pulled the engine, installed dished pistons, and went to the drag strip a week later with no other changes to the engine and found a substantial difference in spooling time between flattops and dished.

 

When staging on the brake to build boost with an automatic at the drag strip, you will immediately notice the difference.

 

Compression equals heat.

 

Turbo technology has advanced to the point that getting a "wide torque curve" is possible with a newer design single. I just don't see needing compounding for a street car even though our shop makes daily drivers with 1500+hp.

[Anyone running a compound setup on a L-series]

Most useful compound turbo setups as used on high performance gasoline engines are there because the horsepower level they desire requires a turbo so large that the engine has trouble spooling it.

 

Some of these engines run such a low compression ratio that the engine cannot spool this large turbo when off boost.....regardless of rpm.

 

Sure, the smaller turbo can greatly decrease lag but most are using the small turbo simply to give the engine enough boost as to greatly increase exhaust flow in the interest of spooling up the main turbo.

 

The simple answer is that nobody has built a L28 that could handle the horsepower level......and it's possible that the L28 head will never flow enough to make it worthwhile vs a well researched single turbo.