HowlerMonkey
-
Posts
1451 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
-
-
He's mentioning the splitter because that means he's managing how much air gets under the car.
If the splitter is low enough, there will be no air to manage at the rear of the pan.
-
That hood scoop's main purpose is to allow the column of super hot air off the turbo to escape the confinement of the engine compartment.............after you've parked the car.
Same goes for the scoop in the pre 1987 300zx.......which was done away with once they went to dual feed injectors.
It's there mainly to combat vapor lock though I guess it does help keep the master cylinder cooler while driving.
-
Brown paper felpro exhaust manifold gasket?
-
I looked for the signal waveform and had not much luck.
Any idea what the tooth count is?
-
A long and skiny tube to a standard map sensor works as long as you don't have a leak near the sensor.
You do have to pick where you are porting the sensor carefully so you don't get problems with venturi effect causing low readings.
If you want to go all out, get a DLP solutions I08 and datalog 8 channels in nistune.
-
I like that curve in the exhaust manifold to turbo pipe.
-
We're at 2700hp without having to go with a billet block........but we are destroked to allow 11,000 rpms or more.
Sadly, it such an unbelievably wide engine.
-
Back in the 1980s when brake cleaner was chlorinated, you could have someone sit in the car on the lift as you welded on the floors and the brake cleaner would put out any fires that started.
Then in 1991, they changed the formulation to something that burns with great vigor.
This brought about the inevitable huge poof of flame accompanied with brake cleaner sprayer diving out of the car, falling six feet, and performing a ninja-like landing on his way for the fire extinguisher.
Of course, the original formula would release phosgene gas when superheated but it would instantly douse the fire.
-
Mine picks up the excess boost right in front of the throttle plate and dumps it into the boot on the turbo inlet.
It is such that it is pointed toward the inlet at a 45 degree angle which should help it not billow backwards out the air flow meter.
The recirc valve is open when at idle which has no bad effect since it is recirc. instead of vented and it had zero effect on idle.
The junkyard is full of volvos or saabs that have the components to make this......just time to take things apart and measure.
-
Also remember that the bypass valve for the oil filter on cooler equipped cars is on the adapter and not on the block.
This means you get no bypass from your oil filter because that hole has a plug in it replacing the ball valve.
This is not a bad thing.
If you keep your oil clean enough to not clog the filter, you probably won't have issues.
-
I believe tony is talking about dished pistons negating squish vs flat tops.
-
I have had good luck with ishino
LOL......this is the default text size when I logged in after being away a while.
No wonder I rarely come here anymore.
-
Next I will try a couple of p79s on that same block.......one pristine and one that likely rarely saw anything than rusty water.
-
Multiple P90 on the same f54 block .....same gasket.....same thermostat and housing.. ( I usually buy head gaskets 4 or 5 at a time)
-
I've made an observation when swapping heads.......
One head I have came off an engine that possibly went 5 years on straight water. (It took a very long time to get the coolant clear)
This head runs without any sort of heat issues on extended high power pulls while all of my other pristine heads start to run hot.
I'm wondering if the thin casting flash has corroded away?
-
I've seen engines throw a rod once oil temperature reaches around 300 degrees.........that seems to be the magic number common in about 10 instances I have seen over the years of racing various nissan inline and V6 cars.
Your water temperature might not give you a good indication of oil temperature.
-
This is not simple regenerative braking.
The turbo center section is a motor sandwiched between the hot side and the compressor.
LOL.......forum software won't even let me generate a link using the tools or even paste in any text..........let me type the entire link with the keyboard because of the suckage.
cdn.images.autosport.com/editorial/1357915433.jpg
-
I later went back after A&P at SIU Carbondale and worked on some of the junk at Miami international airport after the eastern machinists strike of 1989 effectively bounced me out of the eastern airlines pilot entry program.
Mercedes could be using the electric coupled turbo on next year's F1 engine.
For some reason, I can't post images..............forum software stops dead.
Now I remember why I don't post here anymore.
You will just have to guess what I am talking about.
-
Dropping resistor unit and pigtail that plugs into it........if your car has them.
Also........make a pigtail out of the harness and plugs for the alternator.
They come in handy when doing swaps.
-
There are also at least two different length bolts......even between 1981 and 1983.
-
Many L28 setups will ping/detonate if run at high rpms on the highway that wouldn't even when thrashed in "around town driving".
-
I picked up a complete l28e from the junkyard after turning it using the fingers of my right hand on the alternator and then the balancer using both hands.
It's been in service ever since.
-
LD28 in running condition has become more valuable than it's crank alone recently.
-
Printing some pistons in pandalloy, soon.
Harness compatability question
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Completely different harness.
The ecu type has at least twice as many pins and where the engine harness meets the body harness you have differences.
I put a 1982 turbo harness into an earlier zx and the entire harness was different whether it was for the doors, dash, engine, fuse box, .....etc.
If you have a donor car, get the entire harness.