HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Go to a local Z club meetup and get a ride in a 280zx turbo or l28et swapped into a earlier Z before checking out other options.
It's so much easier than the other options.
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I've been running various ZXturbos with either a factory cat or an aftermarket cat and it sounds sweet.
The nature of the monolith seems to get rid of the "sounds like ass" and leaves just some rumble.
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Sweet.......much learning was accomplished that will benefit you and forum members.
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He's pushing the car into the garage.
I seriously doubt the clutch is even part of the equation since you normally push a car in neutral.
I would ask him if he turned the driveshaft by hand after sliding it into the transmission but before bolting it to the diff.
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That's just it.
I have like 15 m30 ecus, and a bunch of z32 and ve30de ecus as well as harnessing.
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Yep.....bought one after having my second snap on digital display timing light stolen in a 13 year period.
One thing to do with the harbor freight gun is to test it against a couple of other "advance timing lights" to see if it's close as I had to pull off the knob and move it over one slot to get it perfect.
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Yes, the M30 in bmw terms is the 3 liter inline six but there is no relationship other than "m30" and no parts interchange.
Early to mid 90s vg30e maxima is the same setup as the M30 except you don't get a consult port.......you get a check connector and there may be differences in throttle position sensor as well.
Pathfinder is similar as well and a quick search will net you multiple threads in which people are seeking to replace their pathfinder or maxima ecu with one from a m30.
I've done a lot of research into the OBDII pathfinder and quest ecus and I found little support for tuning them as they are a different ecu family.
I'm trying not to go down a blind alley but rather one with multiple doors since the pinout of the maxima/z32/m30/j30 use the same ecu connector and many of them have very similar pinouts even when comparing multiple coil outputs with a single coil output.
They all are also nistunable other than the J30 which has two prom chips and requires a bit more working and you often need two romulators to tune them.
If nistune is not available for the maxima and pathfinder versions of that ecu family, you might be able to tune your car on a M30 setup and dump your finalized "perfect tune" into a rom editor and then paste them into the rom of a maxima where you would then burn it to prom and run the maxima ecu with the values you got from the nistuned m30 ecu.
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How can you run in closed loop without an 02 sensor? There was no 02 sensor on the 78 correct?
And I'm sure my mileage will improve later with an aftermarket ecu, but in the mean time I was still curious about other people's experiences. It seems like half the folks here get over 25mpg pretty easily, while others can't get 20mpg to save their lives. It just seems like a pretty big gap to me is all.
The 280z has no closed loop operation but it is possible that it also goes into a pretty rich map at the 3500rpm mark.
I haven't hooked one up to an ecu simulator in about 3 years so I don't really remember if it goes full rich at 3500 like later ecus or simply follows the airflow meter and uses a map without changing modes.
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The goal would be to make it as painless as possible for someone to install.
That said, any replacement of the Z31 harness causes much pain.
Obviously the injection harnessing will be different since Z31 is batch fired but I would like it to be a simple replacement or integration of the M30 stuff into the z31 computer harnessing and leaving the rest of the car as unmolested as possible.
Addressing z31 automatic transmission operation with this setup would also be an issue if the car is equipped with the 1985 or later E4n71b.
Much of the systems the M30 ecu controls are done the same way as in the Z31 so grafting in the M30 stuff into a Z31 harness would net the least amount of non-stock looking wiring but it is possible that some would want a way to wire it such that much of the harnessing is as hidden as possible.
280zx would be the next least complicated install with the S30 cars more than likely needing a stand alone option because of the age of the wiring.................or a whole new main harness which seems prohibitively expensive since you would need to address power source strength/fusebox upgrades when making one.
I'm sure I can make a standalone version for S30 but it get's tricky with tach functionality, fuel pump power, and getting vehicle speed data to the ecu.
I guess what I should do is make one for the Z31 and maybe another for a S130 as an exercise and see how much of my life it saps from me to determine any sort of pricing.
The goal is an entire package you can hook up to your VG30et or L28et (doesn't have to be turbo) that is guaranteed to run a stock VG30et or L28et right out of the box and would allow you to use consult as a window into your ECU's soul and easily allow adding nistune with different injector/MAF options.
This would include egr operation and idle control which may help in states with emissions inspection.
I have confirmed that the M30 setup will run the 259cc stock low impedence 280zx and z31 turbo injectors with a stock Nissan dropping resistor without tuning astonishingly well but it is likely rich during warm-up and in open loop high speed operation until you run into boost.
I've run a l28et this way for 50,000 miles untuned and am experimenting with the next evolution which is the coil on plug stuff from Z32 in my car as some guys here are already running.
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The 280zx turbo chopper wheel doesn't have any "cylinder 1" reference........it just supplies information that a cylinder is firing.
Since the car has a distributor and uses batch firing of the injectors, it doesn't matter.
The VG30e and et wheels on single cam cars have cylinder 1 identification necessary for sequential firing and I use them in the stock 280zx turbo distributor to run a infiniti M30 sequential ecu.
Taking it further all the way to distributorless can probably well be done with the vg30e wheels but not on a Nissan OEM ecu as the distributorless Nissan ecus require a different wheel again.........but it's smaller diameter so modifications have to be done to fit it physically.
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I've always noticed that any emblem that says "turbo" on a Nissan seems to either be smaller or different font than the rest of the emblems.
Would love to have "Nissan" on one side of the trunk lid and "turbo" on the other side in the same dimensions and font.
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I've replaced the sensor with a resistor near 1 megaohm......might have been 770k to eliminate a false sensing of knock from pulling timing when I was chasing something similar but you have to be careful when running without that protection.
I was using a late ecu on a L28 and some sensors are sensitive enough that the valvetrain noise of the older engines trigger false knock senses.
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Many Nissan ecus whether 280zx turbo, z31, and others will switch to open loop and ignore the 02 sensor usually within 100rpm of 3500rpms.
These cars were made when there was a 55mph speed limit and were never expected to cruise at speeds that put the rpms above that point.
Two solutions are tuning with nistune if you are using a Nissan ecu or gearing it such that you aren't over the rpm in which your ecu goes into open loop at your desired cruising speeds.
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I only use my cell phone for phone calls and tethering since I am mobile much of the time.
Not sure how you got that I have fully integrated the cell phone into every facet of my life.
Yeah......rode the technology wave writing code in the 1970s and keeping with all new innovation up to now and maintaining a MCSE (no longer called that) since that cert first existed back in DOS and NT 3.51 days.
I come from the days of every byte being precious and feel it's a waste for me to pump a couple hundred MB to hybridz just to show a few pics.
My vast experience is why I take issue with my experience here...........because I have experienced most all computing has to offer.
Searching brings up multiple threads who's suggestions do not help and I've reached the time limit I have set aside for coming up with a solution that works well.
If you know a post that shows how to work with this quirky forum software without investing half a day, I would be grateful but have not found it so far.
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I am aware of that and wrote that in the post above.
I have the images at a new host but it won't let me edit the original post successfully......gives me a database error every time.
Tried editing a single word leaving everything else the same........database error.
Tried copying the posts with the missing images and editing in the new addresses before posting them at the bottom..........hybridz won't allow linking anymore and you have to create a photo album, upload the pictures, divine the addresses, and then post them to the new thread.
I find it stupid that might be forced to make hybridz host my photos......seems like a huge waste of bandwidth since I am on a cell phone connection tethered to my laptop.
This means large amounts of uploading takes forever.
If anybody wants to see the thread and mods pictures, I am posting a link below to a more reasonable forum who has their shit together.
I'm not jumping through hoops because hybridz can't be user friendly.
LOL.....won't let me post a link.
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Since it seems hybridz forums took a huge step backwards in functionality concerning pictures, you will simply have to use your imagination.
Nice work, hybridz
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Definitely replace the studs for the manifolds since it is out of the car.
If it's got 100k+ miles, and you're itching to do something, throwing in some new standard size rod bearings and replacing the 30 year old rod bolts with either new Nissan ones or arp bolts will probably get you another 100,000 miles out of it and ease your mind when revving it.
I would replace the rear main and front crank seals.
If you're simply going to put it in and start it, you should have no issues as long as you ensure you can get oil pressure right away.
You can look into the spark plug holes with one of those harbor freight skinny lights and look at the cylinder walls a little and taking off the valve cover to look for rust on the lobes is a good idea as is pouring some good oil on the camshaft before you crank it to start it the first time.
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Is this the one that used to run NE division races at summit point in the late 1980s?
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I'm pretty sure the only difference is PRNDL switch might signal the ecu to idle up when the car is put into any gear other than P or N on an automatic car while the manual ecu might not have that functionality.
So you might not get idle up functionality as triggered by the shifter position but it may be possible the ecu will try to maintain target idle speed anyway.
It's possible that the pin on the ecu that receives the signal (pin 10) will do nothing but there is always the possibility that the pin has been repurposed for other functionality on a manual transmission car which might conflict with the signals sent by the automatic vehicle.......which is usually a ground sent to that terminal.....but not always.
Check pin 10 for continuity to ground with the ecu unplugged and key off to see if you get it when in any gear other than park or neutral.
If you can find them, check the 1983 manual transmission electrical diagram and compare it to the 1981 or early 82 diagram which is for automatic cars only.
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My thought is that debris went down the oil supply hole when the block surface was cleaned and was pushed back up by oil pressure until it ran into the gasket and got stuck there causing a restriction.
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If you plan to swap crossmembers with a 280zx, remember to consider they type of sump required for each crossmember.
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If your lash pads are thicker than.....i think, 0.170", you can't use the stock retainers. To find the correct thickness you just have to set it up and check the wipe.
I'm pretty sure it's thinner lash pads that cause problems with retainers because the rocker will contact the the retainers with super thin lash pads.
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And they sometimes don't like to be driven out and replaced so be careful.
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Why not run the infiniti M30 setup.
It uses the type II board and will use the same signaling from the distributor as the Z31 and it gives you Nissan consult port.
Old L28 rebuild or use as is?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
If your p79 head is complete and has not been disassembled, I would leave it alone and keep it as a spare or simply use it now while you source another P79 you can rob the parts from to complete your p90.