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Posts posted by tooquick260
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You missed a few-
1 wire sensor ground (OK, this might be in your 12)
1 +5v ref used for MAP and TPS
1 for TPS
1 or 2 for Idle control
1 Boost controller (if you want it)
1 or 2 for e-fan control
1 for CAM sensor
1 for O2 sensor
You won't be using the cylinder head temp sensor, so you get that one back.
The ECU connectors used on the MS3pro are very, very easy to add or remove
wires from. So I recommend making a list of what you need under the hood,
what you might want and actually do in the near future and what you likely will
not use. With that list you can remove wires you will not be using from the
harness.
When looking for a place to put the ECU, keep in mind that you will likely need
to remove it in the future, or mod the harness. High and center behind the dash
would be clean, but a PITA later. Depending on the connector height the factory
ECU location behind the kick panel might be viable, provide easy access and
be hidden in plain sight.
Will not use the boost control for now.
E-fans on separate own relay for now.
No cam sensor.
Forgot the O2 sensor though.
Also have power for the ps3pro to hook up.
Good Idea for future reference and yes don't want it totally hidden for future usage.
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Holiday's and no work for the last 2 weeks has put a hold on the Z. Enjoying my driver though.
I will hopefully get onto the MS3PRO soon. My dad will help and he has worked everyday but Xmas and New Years for the past 3 weeks.
Plans are to remove the dash. Fix the cracks. I am going to put the AEM a/f gauge in the clock hole. I have decided to make another gauge hole between the tach and temp gauge. This will be formed just like the stock holes, hopefully it will look the same. Will take some time. I will put the AEM tru-boost gauge there.
I will be fixing the heater control valve at the same time, it leaks. Replace the air duct hoses that are cracked. I will also be planning the reinstallation of the a/c. It does get hot here in Florida. Figure while I have the car down can handle all these issues at once.
I will be deciding where to place the MS3PRO then. Without the dash I should be able to find a place for it under the dash. Figuring that there are a lot more wires in the harness than I will be using , best place to hide is in the car.
Wires from ecu....
1 wire for fuel pump
1 wire for crank signal
1 wire for AIT
1 wire for 3 bar map
6 wires for injetors
6 wires for coils
12 ground wires
1 wire for coolant tem
1 wire for cylinder head temp
1 wire for knock sensor
I think thats it. There are alot more wires than that in the harness.
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Welcome, family project fun. Sorry for the loss, glad you are keeping his wishes in the car.
This addiction is hard to wane, so good luck.
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Well I found a 92 Nissan Sentra SE-R in Atlanta. Went and got it.
Had to fix the door latch and replace the a/c compressor. Running great!!
So decided to paint the rims with plasti-dip and put coil overs. Thanks dad for the new suspension!
Tried this combo...
Did not like that so painted the whole wheel.
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Ho HO Ho....... Hope all are enjoying family.
I am working on my megasquirt!! HEHEHEHe
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I have one on ebay right now....I will pm you
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Nice touch
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Thanks CG
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The instructions say up to 176 degrees f. i do not have a battery so it will be place on the inner fender wall in the battery tray. The unit actually monitors the internal temperature. The big deal about the MS3 pro is that they made it for extreme conditions.
I laid it out last night putting it there. I will look tonight about putting it inside as well If i can put it up under the dash somewhere.
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Great... I should have looked for that. cgsheen is the man. He has helped me alot.
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Nice work!
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Have a 82 distributor. The picture is of the harness coming from the distributor after the 4 plug connector.
So in the grey shielded cover are Green with white tracer, Black, Black with white tracer, Solid Green. Outside the shielded cover is a yellow and a white.
Only thing in the fsm is about a white and the yellow that is suppose to go to thermal switches. But those are in a different wire harness. I would assume that the Black w/white tracer is power if so what voltage? 12v or a reduced voltage? Black ground. Leaves the green w/white tracer and solid green. One is the hal optical sensor.
Any help appreciated.
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Good thing its the pro. So I am mounting the ecu part and spark items where the battler used to be. Will make for real short wires.
An advice would be appreciated.
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Its arrived,, time to get the soldering gun and butt connectors.
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Pulled the trigger. Went with MS3Pro, GM 3 Bar, Ign 6 coil pack, GM IAT, 54 mm optical wheel,quad spark 4 channel ignition.
Went overboard but will be able to do all that I want with the car, even if I swith motors... RB, VQ, V8
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Here are my 3rd set of wheels I have used... Z32 300ZX n/a wheels stay tuned to new set coming for the holiday's.
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Very nice.
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True that,,, with my issues I am jumping in with both feet. ms3pro, gm 3 bar map, ign-6 coils, IAT, using the 54 mm wheel in the 280zxt distributor. Sequential with COP.
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Thats the exact car that my brother had till the timing belt broke. It was worth $3500 had about 152000 miles on it. Being a one owner car I would try to get as close to $5k as possible.
Parents bought him the car for $5400 5 years ago.
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I think that battery will be ok. I ran the Odyssey PC 950 in my 240sx SR20DET that was stolen. Because of the intercooler piping I had to mount the battery on its side to clear.
Wish I still had that car!
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Thats great... Nice to have one already setup. I will let you know what I go with. I am looking at MS3, its over the top but I have tried the short cuts and it never works. Going Chevy truck coils for coil on plug and using the sequential setup as well. GM 3bar map, IAT and they said I can use my AEM air/fuel gauges data wire to have a wide band.
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Was waiting on this next pay check. What system did you get?
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Here is mine
That is an awesome car. So understated but over the top. Like to see more pics of the interior!
Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I have the DIY CAS wheel. I know that there are 2 signals that come out of the distributor. The green/white is the signal. Do I use the other as well with the DIY CAS?