['86 300zx vg33e swap]

Just brought home a project car. 1986 300zx with a vg33 out of a '97 Pathfinder. Was wondering if the cams would interchange or not. Kinda new to the import scene and looking for a good place for performance parts and accessories.

THEZSTORE OR JWT FOR BOLT-ON STUFF, LOTS MORE, BUT THAT WILL GET YOU STARTED.

[different valves?]

I thought that was it but what did this other valve come from? the dish in the valve face is a little deeper too. I like the deeper dish for slightly lower compression (I'm thinking of going turbo)

[different valves?]

I've got a p79 head that i am rebuilding for my z. I've got everyting off and I'm in the process of cleaning all the parts. Today i was cleaning the valves up and i noticed that 1 of the exaust valves is different from the other 5. The five that are the same have a Datsun symbol and an E on the valve face. the one that is different just says EX on it, and it has 2770 stamped into the valve stem near the top. WHAT THE HELL IS UP WITH THAT?

[Should a BOV be open at idle or not?]

NO. It should only open when you close the throttle suddenly. Are you sure its coming from the BOV.

[82 turbo, haltec timing issue?]

If he doesn't have a direct ignition setup, then he'll still need something to hook the spark plug wires up to...

 

Oh I see, he only has a coil. Then ya TimZ is right. fa-sho.

[82 turbo, haltec timing issue?]

If you must run a dizzy, then you should be able to make the n/a one work - lose the vacuum advance and lock down the mechanical advance. You should be controlling the timing exclusively with the Haltec.

 

yup, i agree. But there's no need to use a dizzy with the crank trigger. program your Haltec to get trigger signal and have your ignition system distribute spark.

[clutch won't disengage]

If you bled the clutch by yourself than you did'nt do it right unless you used a vacuum bleeder. You need to open the bleeder and get someone to push the pedal all the way in, hold it in, check the fluid level(do not let it go dry), let the pedal out, push it all the way in and hold, then tighten up the bleeder.

[Want To Run An Ext. Wastegate..This Is A Neat Solution? Pics]

I think for now I'm going to be running maybe 14-15psi max. I'm probably going to have to run a spacer anyway and something like this would be easier than cutting into the factory manifold and welding a flange and pipe to the wastegate.

 

you should be fine with that part then.

[N42 head help?!?]

If your upgrading turbos there's a hole new list of things you'll need, depending on how much boost you want to run. As far as what head is best, you'll have to do some searching but as long as you have a turbo cam to go in that head you'll be fine. I dont think you will get the money that you put into that other head so I would hold off on that head for now.

[82 turbo, haltec timing issue?]

is ther a reason why you are using a distributor at all? if you have a crank trigger+ignition system, you don't need a distributor at all.

[N42 head help?!?]

to make a turbo engine you'll only need a turbo head, dizzy, turbo+manifold, computer and wiring harness. maybe a few other things like fuel pump, injectors. but the block and bottom rotating assemblies are the same. are you planning on upgrading the turbo or staying stock turbo?

[82 turbo, haltec timing issue?]

what kind of ignition are you runing? (msd, ect...) and why do you have a vacuum advance, you must have an N/A dizzy

[N42 head help?!?]

Any good machine shop will be able to repair that. simply tear down the head grind out the crack i, if its not really deep, and weld it up. Could be pretty spendy though. What kind of setup are you planning to run. Could be cheaper to buy a built-up head from a known builder.

 

edit:I've seen this done on steel/cast iron heads but i don't see why not on an aluminum head

[clutch won't disengage]

did you have help to bleed the clutch?

[Want To Run An Ext. Wastegate..This Is A Neat Solution? Pics]

that looks like a good part for a low pressure turbo setup, but if you want to run high boost (15+) the wastegate is most effective at 15-20 deg. off the header/manifold. This part is at 90 deg.

[The 6 P's What Am I Missing?]

You might want to reconsider your front brake plans. i didn't find the stock size calipers/solid rotors very durable. I smoked the porterfield pads my first time on the track and left 50% of the pads on the track in two hours of run time. Ended up doing the 12.2" Willwood conversion on the front along with the 240SX/300ZX conversion on the rear.

I agree, on hard decceleration the front brakes take the beating unless you have them biased towards the rear (which would cause major oversteer in turns). I would say that you should definately upgrade the fronts if you plan on doing any high speed braking. And i don't remember if you had SS brake lines but they will help big time if you need to do a little foot work with the brake pedal.

[new n42 intake. now its idles erratically]

If you did'nt use new gaskets (tb,intake manifold,cold start injector) then check with some WD-40, if theres a leak it will start to die. Or wait till its warmed up and adjust the air bypass valve. And by the way where does it idle between.

[new n42 intake. now its idles erratically]

vacuum leak.