SBC_400

i pretty much gave up on secondary fermenting except for certain beers, just leave it in the primary longer, and then cold crash it. i am not a huge fan of the fruit beers either. but i had a very intersting strawberry beer at right brain brewery in traverse city, as well as a basil beer that was surprisingly delicious for a little while. i run all grain on a very simple single infusion set up with 2 converted kegs and a 26 gal boil pot. and then i keg and bottle from there.

i do a little extract brewing, but mostly all grain. but i can convert the al grain reciepies. what types of beers have you brewed and what would you like to brew? right now i have on tap... 1. a creamy Rye P.A. 2. imperial pale ale 3. Turkish imperial stout 4. coffee porter 5. ancho porter 6. summertime dunklweisse

Looks good! good to see another custom v8 z in chicago. speaking of which i need to get back on mine.

I am in the wicker park neighborhood of chicago

with a high horsepower rear wheel drive car, you want a rear weight bias. for a racing aplication, as much as 60% to the rear.

ok, I got my new switch in the mail and I am going to work on the car saturday, could there be any lingering problems from when he tried to jump start it with the leads swithced (other than the alternator might be burned out) that might keep it from running right?

Thanks guys! I found a new ignition switch for $20 shipped so i think i will buy that and give it a shot, and i will check the wiring on the run circut again too! but with this set up there is not seperate coil, just the ignition pack in the cap of the distibutor, where woudl i hook the 12v feed in this case to test it? and could there be any problems casued by the owner trying to jump it wiht the wires reversed, other than the alternator?

i am working on a 64 chevelle 2 door wagon, and it recently developed an ignition problem. the original engine has been switched to a later model crate 350 with an HEI ignition. i did not do the wireing so i am haveing some trouble tracing the work. any way, the engine will fire and start, but as soon as the key is returned to the run position, the engine cuts out. originaly the car had to be towed to the garage it is currently in due to rough to non existant idol and could not be driven home from where it was parked, even though it had been running fine a half hour before. after i started to work on it, i deteremind that problem to be a fuel problem, and discovered two plastic caps in the carb, one hung up inteh ventury and the other about ready to pass teh secondary butterflies. after removing the caps the engine ran fine, but not perfect, so i wanted to tune it. after a couple of very minor adjsutments to the carb and timing (the owner thought it was the timeingthat was making not run and had doen some small ajustments him self) and restarts the battery did not have the power to crank fast, and the car started experiancing the the current problem, but i was out of time to work on it. fast forward 3 weeks the owner went to try to start it, and the battery was totaly dead so he jumped it, but he hokked up the jump leads in reverse, positive to negative etc. (in his defence the guy he bought it from switched the wires so the positive lead was dark blue and the ground was red) needles to say the did not work. so i pulled the batter and hooked it up to a trickle charger, and last night we re-installed it and tried to start the car. it cranked a little slow (with 5deg advance) but fired and ran untill the ke was returned to the run position when it imediatly stopped. i tried retarding the timing a bit and it did the same thing (but cranked faster) so i set it a the stock spec of 4 deg advance and it again started and ran until the key was returned to the start position from the run position. i checked the in line fuel pump and filter and it seems to be getting fuel fine, so it seems to be an igniton problem. now on a stock 64 i might think that it was the ballast resistor, but isn't that removed or bypassed when you switch to an HEI? could it be a bad ignition switch? i did not have any test lights with me last night so i could not check the leads. what coudl it be and what all should i test so that i make sure i bring eveything i need with me next time! thanks in advance scott

some day i hope mine will be my favorite, but that just seems soo far off

i just go the snow reports and loveland got 22" of fresh! i bet that slowed traffic up the pass and through the tunnel!

Yea, not great for the z cars, but Arapaho Basin is open!

i always kind of liked this for a drift car http://hotrodhomepage.com/?p=70

a more typical way of making tubing froma fiberous material is a process known as filament winding, rather that using a mat or a weave sheet. http://www.entec.com/filament%20winding.shtml

what ever the problem with the fuel draining, it started just this summer, and strangely enough right after a fresh fill up and using a lead substitute that we have never used inthe car before because track was out of the stuff that we normaly put in it. i dot realy think that this has anything to do with it, but it is a strange coincedance. i was hoping to avoid putting in an electric pump becasue the car is an all original survivor car, but it seems like that may be the thing to try. does the mecanical pump have a check valve in it that could have gone bad, or would it just be the diaphram itself?

if this does not belong here, I am sory and ples move to the appropriate forum. I am working on a 1960 impala, and I just rebuilt the carb, a carter wcfb and it is running like a top, when it runs. it seems to be draining all the gas out when it sits for a couple days and will not start again unless i poor gas down the carb to get it going. this was a problem before I rebuilt the carb as well, but it runs much better now after the rebuild, but it is still dry after it sits for a little while. if it run one day, it will start the next, but not 2 or 3 days later. i replaced the needles and seats, the gaskets, set the floats, the bowl vent and the throttle plate, and after that reset the idle jets, but in the kit there was another needle (no seat for it) and a small steel ball that i could not find anything about them in the carb, or in the diagram that cam with the rebuild kit. could these have anything to do with the float chamber draining? is there any thing else it could be? again it is a carter wcfb on top of the 348 in a 1960 impala. thanks in advance