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lsdengines

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About lsdengines

  • Birthday 05/06/1982

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  1. If anybody else cares, it seems that any of the z31 flywheels can be used in this application as long as the corresponding clutch is used as well. Anybody have information to contradict this? I ask it like that because I only beleive half of what I read on the internet, and I dont want to drop$750+ on a flywheel and clutch that wont fit.
  2. Ok, so I obviously had read that wrong. Forged crank sounds good, but excessive(and heavy) for my goals. I should of probably asked it like this. What flywheels can be used on a vg30e with the stock na transmision? Im not afraid of clearancing and what not.
  3. I did some searching and got some inconclusive data on this. No I did not sift through all 202 pages of driveline threads! I'm about do for a clutch, and would like to change it all while Im in there. What are my options for flywheels and clutches for an NA 85 z31? I think I saw that the z32 stuff can be used, but I may have to clearance the bellhousing? Like I said, the search left me with more questions. That being said, I don't need a killer clutch, but would like either a lightweight steel or aluminum flywheel and the larger clutch from the z32 would be nice. Thanks
  4. Found some interesting data today. I read elsewhere, on here I think, that the vg30de wasn't much better than the 30e. They basically said that the de would rev a little higher due to being a dual cam engine, but the heads weren't really that different flow wise. That being said, the 30e makes 160?hp, and the de makes 230hp @6400. The de has 10.5cr vs 9.5 for the e. It takes a lot more than 1 point of copression and dual throttle bodies to make up 70hp!!! Seems to me that there is a substantial improvement in the flow on the 4 valve head. I know Im getting a little off topic since the subject was N/A vg30e, but I just wanted to rant on that for a sec. Maybe i should include the de heads as well when I get everything rolling on my bench?!
  5. Everything above the lifter is different when building a "clevor" engine.(cleveland or boss heads on a windsor block) The pushrods are longer, the water passages are different(unless the head is designed to go on a windsor block) the intake manifold is drastically different, the rocker arms are from a cleveland or 385 series big block(429-460), the valve covers are different, and it is difficult to get headers to fit because the the 302 block is smaller than the cleveland, and the 351w is taller and wider. The pistons are also different due to the large canted valves. A side note on pistons, if you are using a replacement boss piston and not a custom one for longer rods, they are designed to be used with the 5.155" rod which came in the boss 302 and the 289, the standard 302 rod is 5.090".
  6. You are partially correct. Different pressure drops are used by some companies to make there heads"flow" better on paper and other heads worse. And then you also have different flow scales and calibrations. A few cfm here and there on a street engine, and even a moderate race engine is no big deal and can be chocked up to bench varience. But if you have one bench with the same cal and pressure drop, you can then make conclusions. Hell, Ill take any data at this point just to get a rough idea. Yes, I actually have a flow bench. I need to recalibrate it and get my pressure and velocity programs working properly to do the kind of testing I want to do. Mt, I may hit you up for those heads in the near future, let me make sure my bench is reading good consitant numbers and we will go from there. It is a very interesting subject, and I will post more when I get home from work tonight.
  7. that sounds logical. So there are two sensors, one for the ecu and one for the gauge. If this helps any, this morning, I changed the oil, and installed a new oil filter, cleaned up some of the wiring, and the stumble and die upon startup has gotten better, but the loss of power is still there. I will check that out on my next day off. Thanks.
  8. Im not coming up with a whole lot here. I've found MSA's, pacesetters, and Nismo's. Are there more, and Im just missing them or what? Any thoughts? The car is my 85 na z31. I know what the pacesetters look like and the specs, what about the msa's and the nismos? any pics or specs. Thanks guys Mike
  9. I haven't starting looking yet, just wandering if this was a common thing with a quick easy fix. So I was driving my 85 na this morning, and noticed that in first gear under light throttle, the power just suddenly dropped. I droved it hard for a sec and it was fine. Then when I was leaving work today, I started it, and it idled rough and died. I started it again, and just kinda played with the gas pedal to keep it running for a sec. I left, and again, in first gear under very light throttle, its like the power suddenly cuts out, it continues to accelerate, just no power though. It goes away as quickly as it comes though. It has the digital dash, and by the time the temp gets up to the third bar, it is fine. It idles dead steady at 700. Any ideas? I'll start investigating tommorrow. Thanks.
  10. any good dyno graphs for supercharged engines/cars? vg powered only, I know what a small block will do!
  11. Yea, I joined a few days ago, I have a whopping 19 posts under my belt. I sure do look like a Non Useable Body(NUB)!!! It's all good. I swear, a lot of forums need a basic aptitude test for new members! This is my first 300, so I do have specific questions pertaining to it. I've already exhausted myself and google looking for stuff, that's typically when I hit a forum. I get flamed a lot for joining, then 2 days later posting advice in the advanced engine tuning sections as a "noob". Oh well. If anyone can come up with some flow data that will be great. If I know the flow and the rpm potential, I can figure out what there is to work with at that point. I am looking at picking up a parts car. If I do that I'll pull the engine and put the heads on our bench and post some data as I work them.
  12. my 96 lt1 has the stock oil pump in it. Holds 25-30 psi at idle, dead on 65 at 7000 rpm's. Thats a mildly built(about 425fwhp) engine plus a 200 wet shot with 75k miles on it. That is also with 5-30 mobil1. The engine in reference was a small block chevy, in which case the stock pump is more than enough for his mild goals. I wasn't saying that my new turbo lt1 I am building would be fine with a box stock oil pump, but I will use a stock replacement pump and blueprint it to my likings. I also wasn't saying that if your 500hp engine is putting out 80psi that you need to take it apart and open up your clearances. I was stating that your 500hp engine turning 8k will be fine with 50psi. I used to work for yates so yes I know that it was a dry sump. All I was trying to do was give a different perspective on this topic. To answer the origional question again, and to get to the ultimate point of it. Either pump would be fine for the 325-350hp range you were mentioning. On a small block chevy, the stock replacement pump will make plenty of pressure and volume without costing you the power of the hv/hp pump.
  13. thats what I was getting at. The only thing that I know of that is different about the cobra maf is that it is 70mm and has a 24lb/hr sample tube. That is the main thing that changed with the mafs availible for the 89-93 mustangs was the sample tube. I actually know of a few people running a piece of 4" tubing with a sample tube inserted in it on stock pcms on terminator cobras, and they are working well. I'd be curious to see what the jwt map looks like because the ford eec maps are pretty generic. Sorry, going way off topic there, I was just trying to see if there were alternatives to having to use a 93 cobra maf.
  14. Most of those look like cleveland style heads. They look decent. If Kaase is really running them, they should be good, he is pretty much the king poop in the ford world. Now, cleveland style heads fitted to a windsor will require boss 302 parts on a 302, or custom stuff on a 351. They run pretty awesome, a bit overkill on the street considering they flow enough air to support enough power to split the 302 block naturally aspirated.
  15. Wow, that was some good reading. I agree that physics applies to all aspects of things mechanical, but there is a way to put it in car guy speak. I'm not calling car guys dumb, I have a degree in physics and nuclear engineering, but you will rarely hear me talk like it, it turns people off. Not trying to debunk grumpy, everything he said was 100% correct, but the new rule for oil pressure(according to robert yates and the majority of the endurace racing world) is a minimum of 35psi, and 10 psi per 100hp. Which means any engine needs 35psi regardless, but a 500hp engine only needs 50 psi even at 8000rpms. Notice I said endurance, not drag racing or qualifying, this rule works well on the street as well. For drag racing, my old 522 ford only had 8 or 9 psi going through the traps, this would not work on the street. I'm not going to go into all the specifics on everything else, grumpy did that very well. Stock pumps are almost always more than adequate for a street engine. Not high volume, not high pressure, stock replacement. combine the stock replacement pump with a hardened driveshaft and do some other oil control tricks(scraper,windage tray with drain holes or mesh, radius drain backs, etc), set bearing clearances, and run a thin oil, and you will have plenty of oil pressure without robbing the engine of power or causing spark scatter at higher revs. As far as sucking the pan dry, your buddy either had sever drain back issues, or didn't have enough oil in the pan.
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