bradyzq
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Posts posted by bradyzq
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It sounds to me as if you expect the dyno to be hard on the driveline. It shouldn't be. There will be no shock loading or wind-up. The only part that might complain, because it's stuck in the middle so to speak, is the clutch.
If there are currently no hints of imminent driveline failure, I agree with NewZed on treating the ujoints to fresh grease. Also applies to the transmission and diff. I like Redline MT90 for the transmission, and Redline 75W90 GL5 oil for the diff.
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How much of this stuff do you actually have already? If the answer is almost none, then good. Because there are more efficient ways than what you describe to make serious power with an L28 ET.
As a start, twinscroll single turbo instead of twins, decent newer ECU controlling 6 injectors of the needed size, front mount intercooler.
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I like @Leon's theory that points at the PCV valve as the potential source of the oil. The problem seems to start directly downstream from its entry point in the intake. And you mentioned that there's oil in the intake runners. It would take a LOT of intake reversion to push oil out to the intake if hte source was the valve seals.
An easy test is to block the pcv hole in the intake, and run a hose from the pcv up under a windshield wiper. Not that there should be much blowby, but you'll see whatever there is instantly that way.
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2 hours ago, Randalla said:
Sorry, I misunderstood. Yes, re-checked the relationship between the cam and the crank and everything lines up properly.
With a degree wheel, per the cam card specs?
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Nope, no ad clicked. I can navigate only for a couple of seconds. Then the subscription window pops up and I can't close it. Running Windows 10 using Chrome.
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@BHJ Automotive, access to your site requires a subscription! That's really annoying.
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Randalla,
Your peak torque and peak hp rpm are very low for you cam. Lower than stock!
Is your cam timing where it should be?
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When removing added components like amps, phones, alarms, remote starters, etc, etc, it's better to remove the wiring at its source, not just remove the component.
That way you discover the sometimes "creative" ways the PO installed it right away, and you can return the wiring to stock. It sometimes takes a bit of wire tracing time, but it's worth it.
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Also, if there's room, swap the injectors and crank sensor wires.
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Couple of things to consider regarding injector clocking:
Do your injectors spray at an angle, or straight? It at an angle, you'll have to aim them so they don't spray onto a port wall. And the connectors will point where they point. No choice.
Will you be able to plug and unplug the injector connectors with them facing down? It's not a good idea to be turning them around and stressing the O-rings whenever you need to unplug an injector.
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If you're going to split the wiring into 2 looms, I suggest keeping the low current sensors away from the potentially noisy high current actuators.
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You can just fill the timing table with 20 for off boost shakedown purposes.
Did you turn the engine to TDC1(piston position, not just crank pulley mark) and physically count the teeth between the missing teeth and the crank sensor? That will get you very close.. Mark the crank pulley or side of a trigger wheel tooth if the timing mark on the pulley doesn't line up with the pointer.
If the car starts with that setting, set the timing to fixed at 0 degrees. Now make your fine adjustments.
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You can always throw the old turbo back on and run it at 23psi and see what it does.
You know, in case you want to spend more time and money on this in the name of science...
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Not worth it? You're hard to please!! Notwithstanding the mystery issues on the GTX .63 hotside, you now have virtually the same boost threshold as your old turbo with a huge, almost 40 lb*ft gain, all while running 4 psi less boost!
To compare apples to apples as much as you can, you really should run 27psi on your new setup and see what happens. I bet the difference will be huge.
BTW, journal vs. ball bearing differences are not that huge in terms of absolute power. Transient response should be better though, especially coupled with the more modern wheel design.
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I appreciate the eye candy!
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Wheel size and offset, tire size, ride height all look PERFECT!!!
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Yup. Your main fueling is calculated from the AFM voltage and RPM. No VE. Though there may be an as yet undiscovered WOT fuel map that is unrelated to or a further multiplier of AFM fueling.
@Gollum, sorry. I thought the MS logs stupid_fast was referring to were yours.
Also, if one is trying to figure out how this stock file works on a modified engine, you may get some weird things going on, such as going off the end of tables. You can see that a stock boost 280ZX likely would have followed a slightly leaner AFR trace, and maybe not hit the last TP column.
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I was referring to your Megasquirt VE table. If you don't have "include AFR" active, it isn't a VE table, but rather a rescaled pulse width table. Maybe this was the issue.
Everything is an approximation anyways, but if the fueling table doesn't look at least a bit like the torque curve, there's an issue.
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Interesting that the AFM output is inverted from normal.
Just a quick correction on VE though... If VE stays the same from 4000 to 6000, airflow would increase by 50% across the same range. So, either the MS VE table in question is hiding a fueling issue, or it's not a true VE table, or both.
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Also worth a look, IMO, is the Porsche 944 Turbo (951) ECU, or DME in their P-speak. It has both boost to deal with, and a similar AFM. Note that it has a WOT fuel map. I haven't tuned one in awhile, so don't remember if it's a multiplier table, or a direct pulsewidth table. It's on the tunerpro dowloads page.
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Well, since airflow, by flapper door or MAF, is proportional-ish to power, if you max the AFM, it will stay maxxed for awhile, possibly til redline, so logging is not needed, just an observant passenger to tell you at approx what rpm it hits 5V or whatever the max is. This itself is testable by simply pushing the flapper fully open manually with the ignition on and noting the max voltage indicated. While roadtesting, you can backprobe at the ECU, since it seems to be pulled down anyways. This obviously saves many feet of DVM wire extensions to the AFM connector.
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That calculated TP drops after 4000 is completely normal, if that's when peak torque is. In a general way, manifold pressure is proportional to injector pulse width is proportional to torque.
To check if the AFM is maxing out, you can use a DVM and some backprobes.
The Quattro is a mechanical continuous injection system with tweaks from the ECU for closed loop (in some markets) and boost. The ignition is crank triggered and completely ecu controlled.
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Another thought: on other older ECUs, thinking Porsche 944 here, there was a separate WOT fueling table unrelated to the AFM input. It would have been only a 2D table, not your typical 3D, since it was dependent only on RPM. Might have escaped your search due to that.
This being a turbo application of course means this table will be way off if boost or other breathing changes have been made!
Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks
in Nissan L6 Forum
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@AydinZ71, with the VVT on the intake cam working, the torque band should be stupid wide.
I'm curious to see a dyno plot comparo with VVT tuning, and without, but I guess that is a ways off...