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trackzpeed

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Everything posted by trackzpeed

  1. Sure wish it was easier to post video on the site. I could show you my whole run and you could break it down from there. Anyone know how to create a Facebook link? I have all my autoX videos on there.....
  2. My settings are really set more for autocross-track then street. All my suspension bits are fully adjustable on KYB G2 and cut Chevy chevette rear springs and AZC cut down fronts. With cut coils math is about 220 lb fronts and 260lb rears +\- I could use better dampening but the car work so dang good I don’t want to change it. Also running the ST front and rears. 245’s up front and 255’s in the rear. Very neutral car the I can oversteer with throttle as needed with very little push. Also running the T3 tower bracing and the T3 B pillar brace. Hope that helps Richard. Maybe you need more tire on the rear???? Jim
  3. I’ve finally picked a color..... going in the shop in June and hope to get her back August 1.
  4. Almost garunteed to run faster. Just need to save up some extra cash to make it happen. Keep up the great work..... love my Silvermine products.
  5. Well I ran top 4 this weekend at autocross. New Bridgestone tires on the rear gave me substantially more grip over the the Kuhmo V720’s. I’ll switch out the fronts once I cord what’s on there. Car is really working well with all the suspension bits...... I’ve been racing for years and this is the most predictable fast car I’ve run.... just requires a lot of muscle to wrestle the wheel without power steering. Considering Silvermine electric steering kit in the future.
  6. There is no best. There are many pros and cons to each kit. It’s not cheap to do it right IMO however some have done it for less than others. Research everything...... a good overview place to start is LS swap facts not opinions thread. I’m using Cxracing..... since my swap, there are things I would do different but I’m happy with what I’ve done. There is a wealth of information on this site to be had if your willing to look. My experience is that once I got started the help became more available....... just my .02. Best of luck. Jim
  7. I want with T3. Don’t think they were that much but i don’t remember. HUGE difference in the way the car drives and handles. The cost of new spindle pins, bushings, and labor time made the swap to the T3 easy. I track my car a lot so the improved handling and solid feel was more than worth it for me. Just my.02.
  8. new lower control arms will solve the problem too...... I gave my stock one's away otherwise I would have sent them to you.. Jim
  9. Crazy mount! Try heat to the spindle pin housing and a bigger hammer 😂.... or use a press.
  10. When I researched my install, I came at cross a thread claiming up to 5 degrees was good to maintain oil around the pick-up in the pan from the monster Miata crowd. I’m siting at about 3+ degrees but it’s just the way it worked out after I bolted it all up.... I believe CXRACING has it engineered into the kit. The CX headers are long tube and fit nice with the kit for a fair price..... my exhaust is custom from the y pipe back. Hope that helps. Jim
  11. Thank you for serving our country my friend. Be safe and blessed wherever you my travel.
  12. Making good progress. Keep up the good work.
  13. Top view of complete engine. almost entirely behind the front axle. Good luck with your build.
  14. I'm about 4 inches +/- from the head to firewall. I track my car all the time and the balance is great... Keep in mind my car is pretty low (CG) so that always helps. Again, I'm running the T56 so placement for had a lot to do where the shift pin came through the tunnel. Ill post a pic in a bit. Jim
  15. I'm not home to check..... I'm running the T-56. As you said, Tranny plays a huge role as to final engine location. HTH Jim
  16. Parts suppliers don’t necessarily understand the difference between early and late model 240Z’s. The late model had larger diameter push rod than earlier. Easy fix all in all. Like most parts for 45+ year old cars.... they need to be modified a bit to work. HTH Jim
  17. Stock replacement booster. Trying not to “fix” what already worked. Can’t wait to hit the track.
  18. Well the new booster is in..... can’t believe how well the old girl stops now. I believe the old booster has been failing slowly for awhile and I just grew accustom to weaker brakes over time. The only modification i had to make was to drill and tap the clevis. The new booster had the 10x1.25 push rod and the old was and 8. I can’t tell you what a braking difference the new booster has made. My wilwoods have come alive, but my back is damn old to get under that dash to many times. Lol 😂 . Jim
  19. sweet bike! Love love love your bike build. Nice work. Thanks, Jim
  20. Subscribed. Looking forward to your progress.
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