malibud

Ok I have the Jim wolf 300z ecu with an 1982? turbo set up in a 240z. Idle timing is set at 8 degrees . I believe I have the crank angle sensor from a vg30e like they want. I have flipped it both ways no change. I checked the placement of the distributor. At 0 degrees, and the #1 piston set TDC the rotor points to #1. the screw holes gives me very limited adjustment is there any way to change that? I thought I read in search that Tony D said there was a way around that but did not explain. can I take the distributor out and move it over one tooth ? I going to junk yard today to get another CAS wheel . thanks Dan

I have some for VENTED rotors I cant remember the numbers

i have a pair with almost new EBC green stuff pads 100$ plus ship

I have a closed ratio from an 82 $325 plus shipping around 50?i am in nc . A r180 to Miami was $35

I am looking for some where to vent my BOV. I see a lot of people venting it into a vacum port on the intake I was told to put it a 60 degree bend right before the turbo . Does it make a difference ? Thanks Dan

Problem engine runs at 12 degrees of timing at idle . It dies after running hard (idle drops to below 500 and can't recover ) As far as I have read the base timing should be around 20-24 at idle . Back ground... 1972 240 with a turbo swap it is new to me so I don't know everything. it is kinda of a hodge podge bored out f54 block, n42 head, Jim Wolf ECU (modified stock) 420 injectors, garrett turbo, water/oil cooled external waste gate about 1 bar of boost. I think the wastegate is a TIal knock off I have read it is best to spend the money here and get a new WG. I have advance the timing as far as it will let me (12 degrees) by moving the distributor. I tested the TPS circuit at the ECU box.All is good there connection with no throttle, infinity ohms at throttle(no connectivity). There is only a limited amount of adjustment by moving the TPS. I did move it up as far as it could go. (the throttle body is not original TPS is horizontal not vertical) so my RPM increased but still did not help problem: Coming off high rev Rpms drop then car dies. Maybe I should open the TPS and clean contacts? don't want to fix if not broke . I did test the FI temp sensor it checked out OK 2.6 ohms (it is mounted on the fuel pump delete plate) This should advanced the timing at idle but it is not. I will try to figure out where it plugs into the ECU this week and check connectivity there to rule it out but perhaps this is where the problem is. Any suggestions? car runs ok no real boost until 3500 rpm then it will throw you back at about 4500 Thanks

If it were me I would run it . I have heard 10% from highest to lowest but the GM manual says no less than 70% of lowest to highest

Nice ride I had been eyeing that one in Asheville. Sure like to see it once it is done since I am not far. Guess you didn't get the RB the guy had with it ?

I have one in San Jose that I bought turbo , bored over . I am about to ship it to the east coast so let me know 7500. no rust... dc1298@hotmail.com

I have one from a 71 240z not sure if it will work I am outside Asheville you cut it you can have it

So worked out shipping ?

Hey I don't want to high jack you or steal an engine but I am in the Asheville area and looking to swap and might be interested in the above if you are not . I think I am closer .

well I am curious now did you find the problem ?

Look at the for sale section I have a 260 I would let go for 3500 . It is a good driver, owned by a mechanic so everything works including AC( no clock working ) round top carbs rebuilt . I in the process of shipping a 240 to Greece so an a little familiar with the process

I think I have one in my parts car let me look . If is easy to get out say $25 +shi p?

I have a couple. Stock 75$ plus ship. I sell 3.9 and 4.11 on ebay for 300 . For hybridz I can do 250 plus ship. They are getting hard to find and pain to pull sitting in the dirt. I have 4.11 in hand the 3.9 is in my car and will be replaced with a sti. You will need a 5 speed for the lower gears but it does add to the fun factor.

Its a long shot but I thought I would post here before buying ...

I have bunch from MSA also pm with needs

I will talk with the builder some more . He said not to cut the ramp ?( if I can remember he said it would make the front end plow and would be hard to drive ) But to increase the torque (I believe) . He said that from the factory they are not torque enough (or come on soon enough ) . I might just stick with stock save the $200 a try it out. Thats why I was kinda feeling it out if anybody had made any adjustments before installing . Thanks for the info

From my research , and my thinking (pardon) My HP is not that of a stock STI so my wheels would lock up later kinda-of negating the whole reason for the LSD swap. With both wheels spinning sooner I could acheieve quicker bottom end and better handling . I have some bigger sway bars that i think would help with the understeering and the rearend slide .

Ok I have my sti diff an 04' 3.9 CLSD . there is a diff build in my town who does a lot of these . He says that he can rebuild it and change the angle so that the wheels lock up sooner . I did some searching I think stock is 40 degress maybe change it to 60 . Does anyone have any experience with this setup what changes did you make and how did you like it ? . I am running a 72 240' zx 5 speed , w/ an open 3.9 diff. .... Eventually go with a l28et set up thanks

I did this on my 72 . No cutting just used the curved shifter from the 4 speed

Theres a closed ratio on ebay for 250 in TX better hurry ....

i have one but am on the east coast nice interior only rust is in the battery box area 4500 $

I am curious if you have a 4:11 why do want a 3.9 . I have a 3.9 in my 240 with closed ratio 5 speed love it but was planning on going to the scrap yard this week to get a 4:11 up grade was wondering if you thought it was too low. Going to keep the 3.9 as a spare sorry . shipping is about 80$ one way