SuperDan
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Posts posted by SuperDan
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I've ended up with a Commander EFI, two Megasquirts, two SDS units, and an 1100CFM air door like this to go with the setup on the Z (that's a Novi Centrifugal Supercharger installed now going on 24 years.... with original analog EFI --- you know, turn the trimpot knobs for gain and such...)
Recently my eyes have turned to the 66 Corvair Corsa Turbo I have, being that I have the four barrel conversion manifold for it, and enough 6 cylinder EFI's laying around along with the air door...
I used to put Datsun EFI on Corvairs (hahahahaha, how times change!) and think I will skip my ECCS retrofit phase and just go direct to aftermarket on this one...
You think the Datsun is cold blooded with a four barrel....try a Corvair at -35F with a big Holley on it and a cam that produces no vacuum whatsoever until about 2,200 rpms and no way to get heat to the plenum under the carb!!!
Actually, I know exactly what you are talking about. My very first car when I was 16 was a 1965 Corsa with the 140hp engine, bought it for $400. The 4 Rochester carbs on it were trashed from the previous owner over tighting them and I converted it to the single 4 bbl setup.
Cold blooded is an understatement. Even living in the southern desert of California on a 120deg day, you could fire it up and wait 10 mins, then grab one of the intake tubes and it was cold and sweaty like a can of beer.
I ended up doing what you mentioned above with copper mesh screen to help with the cold drive ability. It help some but in the end I ended up making a spacer between the carb and intake flange that routed hot engine oil to help. It made the biggest difference.
Getting another Corvair has been on my radar for the last few years, I really want another 65-66 Corsa Convertible that I can convert to EFI.
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Love what's happening there Super Dan.
Thanks. I am still getting a few things sorted before I finish dressing up the wiring etc. I have no dyno numbers but my seat dyno says that I am not sure the car is really any "faster" but just pulls harder and runs better.
One thing I and some of my friends noticed was that the exhaust sounds... meaner, not sure why but it does LOL.
The operator of the dyno suggested a few things to try, my setup needs better injectors, the Seimens don't atomise finely enough, the mapping needs to be done with an N-Alpha (tps) and the phenolic insulator needs to be ditched. A heated throttle body would dramatically help with fuel mixing with the air in the vicinity of the TB. My injectors are outboard of the throttle, so atomisation here is VERY important.One of my other concerns about this setup was the size of the injectors in the Terminator TBI, they are 85lbs injectors. I did some research and the new injectors they use have very fine resolution (I guess that is what you call it) and I have had no problems tuning it down to a 500 RPM idle.
I did use the manifold heater built into the Clifford intake. One of things that I think are helping with this setup is the throttle body uses what Holley calls an (annular discharge ring) to help with atomization.
fuel mixing with the air in the vicinity of the TB. My injectors are outboard of the throttle, so atomisation here is VERY important.Super Dan, what is your ems?
Holley EFI HP. http://www.holley.com/division/HolleyEFI.asp#96
I ended up buying the Terminator system as it included the throttle body, harness, all sensors a handheld programmer etc. It's really hard to beat what you get for the price. There seems to be some confusion on the interwebs that this system can only use the handheld programmer for tuning it, this is not true. It is an HP series ecu and you can plug in a laptop and tune it.
The handheld programmer is pretty easy to use but I ended up just using a laptop so I could access all the features not available using the handheld. I velcroed it to my dash and use it display any sensor data I want to see, it works kinda nice for that.
I must admit I'm a current member of the 4 barrel set myself...albiet with a little twist...Muahahahaha!That is really cool.
One of the things about the Terminator throttle body is that Holley does not offer 2 or 3 bar map sensors. They figure since it supports 600hp out of the box that using a blow through turbo or supercharger exceeds what a TBI can/should be used for on a V8 engine. I guess that is true, but for smaller engines such as an L6, getting to that 600hp is not very realistic.
The map sensor is a GM LS style sensor that plugs into the TBI. You can use a standard GM external style sensor by unplugging it, and changing the sensor connector. I did not want to do that and wanted to keep it plug and play so after some research I found 2 and 3.3 bar sensor that work.
GM MAP Sensors, true linear 0-5 volt scaleDelphi 2 bar - 12615136 (Various GM cars/trucks)Delphi 3.3 bar - 12215049 (2004 SILVERADO 6.6L DIESEL)These sensors are slightly different than the stock Holley one but the connector is the same and so is the hole that the sensor pushes into.The nipple on the sensor was also off center slightly but it was real easy to make it fit.To make them work I had to:Cut the top retaining clip off the new sensor with a pair of dikes so it will clear the underside of the air cleaner mounting flange.When installing the sensor, rotate it slightly counter clock wise so the screw hole in the metal clip that is used to mount it to the throttle body will line up correctly.Bam done, easy.NO modifications at all are needed to the TB or its wiring etc. -
Finally got mine running.
I had to ditch the turbo for now since I recently became un-employed and decided to just finish it with what I have.
I have running it now for about a month now and I am really pleased so far. It runs excellent. Driveability is exceptional and no more falling on it's face after about 5000 rpms, it just keeps pulling all the way to redline.
There was some concern about running such a large throttle body (1000cfm) on a single plane intake and how it would effect low speed / off idle. There is no problem, it is really responsive.
For ignition I ended up just using my 77 280Z distributor. I locked out the mechanical and vacuum advance and wired it up to an 8 pin HEI module. Works perfect with the Holley setup.
Once I get some income going again I will be turboing this sucker for sure
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Right now it's just a stock L28E that is in real good shape. I am going to run it while I work out the tune etc and then build a new turbo motor I have sitting in my garage.
The turbo is just a cheap ebay one I have had for a few years that I use for mocking things up, still have not decided on the exact specs I plan to run.
After researching for months and adding up prices and comparing features etc I decided to take the easy way out on the throttle body and engine management and went with a Holley Terminator setup. Holley's engine management systems are VERY capable systems and for what you get the price is really hard to beat
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I am still on the fence about running an intercooler. My original idea was to keep this setup simple and clean and just discharge from the turbo directly to the throttle body. We are a bit lucky here in San Diego and have 3 or 4 E85 stations and 1 of them happens to be 4 blocks from my house... I guess you can see were I am going with this
I have been wondering about heat issues and looks like you are confirming my concerns.
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Oz, what you are doing looks similar to what I have been mocking up.
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A feedback system has been added to our site to help with transactions within the Buy Sale Trade forums.
1. This is ONLY for feedback on transactions involving the classifieds forums.2. Feedback ratings will only be view able in posts for members in the Buy/Sale, Vendors and Group Buy sub forums.3. To view/leave a members feedback outside of those forums you must view their profile and select Feedback at the bottom / left navigation link.4. You also must enter a link to the thread relevant to the feedback you are giving.5. You can leave retroactive feedback for transactions that have been completed before we added the feedback system. I would encourage this.6. I suggest asking for feedback once a transaction is completed. It just a good thing.7. All feedback is pretty much final and will not be reversed by the admins except in extreme cases. So be sure of the feedback you leave BEFORE you submit it.8. Abuse of the feedback system will result in a permanent ban from HybridZ.Any questions/problems please post in the support sub-forum.Thanks,Dan -
HybridZ Classifieds Rules
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11. After your item/s have sold, please hide / close your ad.12. Due to abuse by scammers, only donating members are allowed to post items in the for sale sections. There are NO donation requirements when replying to ads.
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HybridZ Classifieds Rules
1. Use of the Classifieds is limited to private individuals only. Commercial advertising is not permitted.
2. This is for selling parts/product, but please keep posts to a PG-13 nature.
3. Please be descriptive in your ad title. Ad titles such as “Cleaning out shed!â€, “Misc parts!â€, “Parts Wanted!†“Looking for!†are too vague and will be deleted.
4. When selling an item, you MUST publicly state your asking price and location, or your post will be deleted.
5. No Bidding for items - HybridZ is not an auction site. If a seller posts a fixed price they must sell at that price and not turn the sale into a bidding contest. If a seller posts a link to an auction site the auction must be conducted on that site.
6. HybridZ Classifieds are used to buy parts/product. NOT to tell sellers you can get it cheaper somewhere else. You can place a lower offer to the seller, but statements of "being over price" will not be tolerated.
7. The administrators of HybridZ.org take no responsibility for the conduct of members on this forum.
8. If you place an ad and find later that it has disappeared you can safely assume that you violated one of the above rules.
No notification will be given.
9. Please give your ads at least 5 days between bumps. Frequent bumping such as every day will get your ad deleted!
10. Placing of for sale ads in forums other than the Buy / Sale / Trade sub-forums is prohibited. This includes placing ads in your signature line or other non approved locations.
11. After your item/s have sold, please hide / close your ad.12. Due to abuse by scammers, only donating members are allowed to post items in the for sale sections. There are NO donation requirements when replying to ads.
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HybridZ Classifieds Rules
1. Use of the Classifieds is limited to private individuals only. Commercial advertising is not permitted.
2. This is for selling parts/product, but please keep posts to a PG-13 nature.
3. Please be descriptive in your ad title. Ad titles such as “Cleaning out shed!â€, “Misc parts!â€, “Parts Wanted!†“Looking for!†are too vague and will be deleted.
4. When selling an item, you MUST publicly state your asking price and location, or your post will be deleted.
5. No Bidding for items - HybridZ is not an auction site. If a seller posts a fixed price they must sell at that price and not turn the sale into a bidding contest. If a seller posts a link to an auction site the auction must be conducted on that site.
6. HybridZ Classifieds are used to buy parts/product. NOT to tell sellers you can get it cheaper somewhere else. You can place a lower offer to the seller, but statements of "being over price" will not be tolerated.
7. The administrators of HybridZ.org take no responsibility for the conduct of members on this forum.
8. If you place an ad and find later that it has disappeared you can safely assume that you violated one of the above rules.
No notification will be given.
9. Please give your ads at least 5 days between bumps. Frequent bumping such as every day will get your ad deleted!
10. Placing of for sale ads in forums other than the Buy / Sale / Trade sub-forums is prohibited. This includes placing ads in your signature line or other non approved locations.
11. After your item/s have sold, please hide / close your ad.12. Due to abuse by scammers, only donating members are allowed to post items in the for sale sections. There are NO donation requirements when replying to ads.
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Title Post countNewbie 0Moving Up 25Regular 50Always Here 100Can Charge Rent 500Totally Addicted 1000Never Logs Off 2000Life Member 5000Needs a Life 7500Verified Post Whore 10000
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I think I got it sorted out. If you notice some things not displaying correctly you may want to refresh your browser cache.
In Windows running most browsers you can do it by using ctrl+F5 while on the page that is having issues.
A normal F5 or refresh will not work.
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Ahh... I think I know what is going on. Ill take a look at it when I get home later.
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Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the PS500, should be here Monday. Then its just figuring out when to do the install.
Very interested in how this works out. I am in the market for a ECM myself.
Megasquirt is cool but not so cheap anymore and the case / db37 printer cable connector still looks like it is some pieced together high school science project.
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Universal Cats with CARB numbers are perfectly legal as far as the law goes as it has been transcribed to me by my BAR rep.
This seems to conflict with what magnaflow is saying on their website. http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic_converters/04basics/04california.asp
It is illegal in California to select a catalytic converter for installation based solely on vehicle weight, engine size, physical shape, size, configuration or pipe diameter.
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I took a look at it last night.
Seems the software was set to not allow regular members to create new albums... not sure how long it had been like that but I corrected it.
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Dan,
Is the firewall flange at the wrong angle? If so, Roger also sent me the wrong one initially but got me the correct one within 2 days. I can't get something from Philly in 2 days, don't know how he does it!
Im not sure, it's kinda hard to tell since I cannot bolt it to the firewall. Just eyeballing it seems like the angle is correct.
If I was goning to guess what is wrong I would say the flange was welded a little to far back on the colum.
After I get off work today I am going to pull it back out. The spline on the shaft was a little tight so it will take a bit to get it out.
Once I got it out I am going to compare it to the stock one to see if everything matches and bolt it back up without connecting the steering shaft to see if the angle is correct etc. Ill take spme pics and measurments and send them to Roger so he can see what is going on and hopefully make corrections to their design if it is something they dont know about.
Not sure if they could just replace the flange since it looks like it is welded to the colum. I may have to send the whole thing back.
Not to worried about it though I am sure Roger will get me sorted out quickly.
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Mine does not fit,
With the steering shaft slid into position the steering colum shaft mounting flange is about 1" too far away from the firewall. Im gonna have to pull it and take some measurements to see if it is whole colum that is off or if it is just the new coupler that is too long and email Roger.
Im bummed, I finally can start working on my car again and I was really excited about installing this
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Thanks for the advice, however neither way displayed the 'Create New Album' button until I made a donation and fell under the Donating Members classification again. Not sure if this is intentional, but this seem to be one of the privileges that is locked to normal accounts? Might be worth annotating the 'Updated Donation Information' announcement thread, as it only mentions increased photo size allowances as a Donating Members perk.
I had been meaning to donate for a while now, so this gave me the perfect excuse.
Thanks again!
Weird, I do not recall setting it up that being a donating member was required to create albums... Ill take a look at it later when I get home.
Thanks for the heads up.
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Goto upper right corner of home page, dropdown on your name select "My Settings"
On the menu bar under the words "My Settings" select "Gallery" then select "Create a new album" button on right.
Why the hell they put it here I have no idea.
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Looks bitchen!
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I dont, but once i get the cowl in my hand im gonna see if about making it just a tat shorter.
No no, a tad taller please
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Speaking of which, does anyone know how much taller the competition hood scope sits compared to the stock hood bulge?
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For the amount of money spent an a take-out LSx, installing same in place of the SBC, tuning the LSx PCM, modifying the PCM harness, changing the engine and trans mounting hardware and hassle, would be MONEY ahead to repair the 383 SBC stroker. For the money saved, an Electromotive EFI/Ignition system could be added. Then INFINITE tuning ability is available. If the weight of the SBC is an such a large issue, then purchase an Aluminum SBC block and build up from there.
It is going to cost LESS time and money to fix the 383 stroker himself. For quality of parts, quality of workmanship and displacement for displacement, there will be NO difference in longevity, HP and TQ between the 383 SBC stroker and the LSx. In order to get top performance and emissions out of the LSx you have to run a GM PCM. That will require a harness, PCM and software to tune the PCM. That will be a CONSIDERABLE chuck of money. I came real close to going that route with a 383 SBC stroker. I have the PCM, wiring harness and needed to purchase the software which would run about $800.00+. Then I discovered Electromotive. GM stole their technology from these folks just like they stole LT-1/LT-4 technology from others.
For size/compactness and performance of the design engine design, the SBC is really hard to beat.
I'm going to have to agree Mike. For what you already have into plus the fact that it can be fixed there is no reason not to run the 383.
If you want to go efi and make it dead simple I would seriously look at the PowerJection III by Professional Products. I have been hearing good things about it and I am pretty sure it is the route I am going with my new 327 build.
Besides, didn't you already kill a LS1 in a vette?
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Wolf Creek Racing CV Kit - Install Issues
in Drivetrain
Posted
It's been a few years but as I recall one shaft is shorter than the other and it goes on the left (drivers side). I did not run into any other problems.
I did end up ditching the bolts that require wire locking and replaced them with flange head bolts and used Nord-Lock washers.
2 years later and no problems.