AdreView
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Posts posted by AdreView
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So I've been playing with the installation of a OBX in my R200 for several weeks now and have gone through just about every scenario regarding upgrade and fitment. One thing I seem to have overlooked was the tolerance of the press in splined side flanges to the lsd machined splines.....and guess what.....my drivers side fits nice and tight, not so much for the pass side. I'm getting rotational play, no in and out, I've replaced the circlips with new ones. Checking the side flange tolerance back in the original open carrier it fits nice and snug like a factory fit should. So now.....what to do? OBX Racing Sports doesn't respond to manufacturing defects or tolerance issues and won't guarantee against them especially after the unit has been modified and installed. Can anyone think of some long term/heavy duty solution to decreasing this play? I'm measuring about 0.020" of "backlash" between the teeth.
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PMd you.
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I could not say, never visually tested the full travel of suspension. I haven't felt a bind myself.
Just peek into the front wheel well with a flash light when you have a chance and report back if you can, I'm interested in knowing if it looks like the photos I posted above. Thanks
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Yeah, that's how I installed them. Still working pretty well. Just tracked them in January and felt great. Tight course meant for gokarts.
Considering you have a 280, do you have the coil binding as I do in the front?
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1- XL short sleeve T-shirt, Asphalt Grey
Zip code: 60630 -
Just an update
Had these for close to a year and a half now.
Shocks still feel the same, car is still the same height as when i last posted in july last year.
Feel nice on canyon roads and over bumps too.
Interested in knowing if you installed them as VA in the front and the HA in the rear?
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Going to bump "stop" this nearly a year later with my results having recently installed them on a 240Z.
As one can see, the set is two different designed springs, not the similar looking ones used on the 280s. I installed the VA in the front and the HA in the rear (not entirely certain this is correctly labeled by whomever manufactured them) as specified by previous posts.
On the ground the Z looks level and has even gap front/rear and rides very well, not jarring, not bumpy, smooth and quite comfortable. The measured drop from oem springs to these is approximately 1.6" in the front and .75" in the rear with the drivers side being 0.125" higher than the passenger side to accommodate drivers weight.
The one area of concern is with the front coils being near coil binded throughout the entire length, which makes for only an inch or slightly more (not actually measured) of actual travel...I was wishing for more as I don't need to be this low. I understand its due to the design of a progressive spring including coil bind as a "helper" but why even design a spring to be this compressed with such a short travel?
With the sheer lack of info on the manufacturing run of these through Vogtland and the added lack of info from any vendor which sold these I'm really wondering if the springs need to be swapped front to rear as similarly reported over the years with users of Eibach getting all confused as the F/R stampings changed from Eibach to MSA through their change-over.
I haven't measured the actual spring rates of these other than accepting the data originally posted by JohnC (The 240z rates are 152 fronts and 170 rears), but I'm wondering how the balance and handling will be affected by the swap if done???
It's too bad there are such few options remaining for Z lowering springs on the market today. With most going the coilover route I can see why, but for those who don't want to go that route it's tough to find a well balanced solution.
Vogtland Kit:
Vogtland Front w/vehicle weight:Vogtland Rear w/vehicle weight:Another discontinued lowering spring option was Tokico, very similar results to above.Tokico Front w/vehilcle weight:Tokico Rear w/vehicle weight: -
Bumping this ol bugger.......can someone clarify which terminal slot 3 wire connects to on the coil?
3) Insert new pin into slot 3 of ECU connector then connect to a new wire going to the _______ terminal of your coil. The car seems to run OK without this step, but I still wired it since it was done on the 300zx. I have a MSD and the car is doing well with it
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Can someone clarify, which coil terminal does this new wire connect to?
3) Insert new pin into slot 3 of ECU connector then connect to a new wire going to the________terminal of your coil. The car seems to run OK without this step, but I still wired it since it was done on the 300zx. I have a MSD and the car is doing well with it.
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I second that ^^^^^^^^
Awesome work!
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My 1971 240Z battery tray was cut out due to rust by previous owner. Looking for the passengers side section behind the strut tower which connects to the firewall and frame rail.
Seller would need to provide the section slightly larger than the missing area in this attached photo, plus enough metal to reach the bottom most section to the frame rail. Battery tray optional.
Buyer would require shipping to Round Lake, IL 60073 and can provide payment via PayPal.
Please reply via PM with pictures, price, and availability.
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When was the last time you performed a valve adjustment?
When was the last time you checked the timing?
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Thanks for the replies, I've decided to fab my own.
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I believe the wing came out excellent, it flows nicely without the end caps.
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I have one but from 73 240Z if that will work for you then it will be$40 shipped to IL.
Jamal
Thanks for the reply, I have a lead on one for about $20 shipped. Still deciding on options though.
I will check the one on my parts car in the morning, I will get back to you.
That would be great, thanks again.
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Looking for a solid (surface rust ok, no rust damage) passenger side rear metal wheel well fuel filler neck protection plate.
Paypal available, shipping to Round Lake, Illinois.
This:
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I'm with NewZed, I got my 2+2 running smooth following the directions posted in my thread:
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117526-l28e-tdc-verification/
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I'm in the process of cutting out and repairing the rust on my 2+2 which has only 10-15% rusted floor boards, firewall and front wheel wells. I would never take on the amount of rust seen in the photos you posted. There are many other early 70's coupes out there to start with with much less rust. This one looks like every exterior panel has damage and the entire interior will require replacement, god knows the condition of the frame and drivetrain. The money and time you'll spend on restoration of this Z is better off spent buying an almost restored early Z and finishing it off.
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Interested and interesting, once merged do we call this a Honsun, Datda, Hondsun, Datsda, HondaZ, ZeeHonda, or something else?
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Just read through the entire thread, excellent work restoring/updating all that is on this 240.
The exhaust design was a great idea, love the vertical dual tips.
R200 Bearing Needed
in Drivetrain
Posted
Steve, were you able to fit this PN: 38335-N3220 to the pinion of the R200?