Broken-Z

Well Oldskool, Sounds like you have some typical questions for a young machinist. Thats OK ,it's to be expected. I'll start off by telling you that I have been a machinist since 1985, And a tool maker for approx. twelve or so years. First of all congratulations on finding a job in todays economy. That's a feat in itself. The thing that concerns me at the moment is that I'll quote you, "problem is it's like manufacturing machining". It's all manufacturing,weather it's one piece or five hundred. I'll asume that you meant to say that it is production machining, where you tend to have long runs that might seem to get boring. Is this correct? Maybe you can be a little more specific as to what type of parts you are making and what type of machines you are running. I'm sure there are many machinist and or tool makers in this forum that would be more than willing to help out. My advice to you at the moment is to settle down and focus on the basics of machining.Find some one who will be willing to teach you and let them know that you are willing to master the basics of machining one step at a time, learning to square a block ,and learning how to check parts properly,and deburring properly. Concentrate on quality and specifics and slowly work your way into being a well rounded machinist. Some older tool makers might become reluctant to teach if they get the feeling that you are trying to go to fast, or jump ahead to quickly. CNC machining is advanced machining.You would not try to jump ten school buses on a motor cycle,if you have not learned to ride first would you? I worked in a machine shop for six years before I even considered myself to be a machininst, and even at that point my skills were limited.The field of machining is so vast, from building production tooling, to building molds to produce parts that have details that you can not even see with the naked eye, to building turbine blades used to rebuild a jet engine. Now I'm 51 years old and still learning. Hope this helps a little. Get back with some specifics of the job and I'm sure somone will have some answers for you. Good luck. And have patience.

I didn't replace the pinion bearing when I rebuilt mine,as it seemed to be OK. If I remember correctly I purchased the bearings from a place called import auto parts but, was a bit of a hassel. I would call Car Quest. I believe the transmission shop that pressed my bearings recomended them. My rebuild thread.http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=388827 Make sure to mark spacers when dis-assembling, you will need to have them go back in the same position.

Here's a link. http://www.fixrim.com/?gclid=CN257-Doyo0CFQE6gQodGm4URQ

Thanks Zcarnut, I really do appreciate your effort and the much detailed explaination. I assembled the unit this morning and it went together with no problems. The preload on the carrier side bearings went together with no glitches. A good tap fit, checking for binding inbetween taps.Ended up with .006 backlash(a little on the high side,but within tolerance) and a ring gear wear pattern that was almost perfectly centered. Seals and output shafts installed. Job should be completed in the morning.Thanks again!

Thanks Zcarnut. I went back and re-read the FSM and it became a bit more clear. I didn't expect to have to drive the side bearing spacer with such interfearance. I didn't use a puller to remove the carrier at the initial removal. It came right out, but I dont think this will be the case now. It's going to be snug(hence the term pre-load). I am still a little confused as to where they(FSM)get thier values for a,b.c ect...in the formulas posted.I guess they are a given. I think what threw me off was some research that I did on similar diff,where you would set the back lash first, and then preload a specified value seperately.Hope this makes sence.This is my first differential rebuild so I am working through a learning curve.

Hey guy's, I'm hoping someone can help me with this. I'm rebuilding the R200 rear differential on my 1982 280ZX ,and I am at the point of re-installing the carrier, with new bearings. I understand that I will need to set the backlash ,and also preload the bearings upon assembly.My question is,with no shim set available from Nissan(only replacement shims),how am I going to do this? I know that I can buy replacement shims (not an assortment) and grind them down to a specific size if needed.How can I come up with an initial number? I'm thinking using flat shim stock for trial until a number is achieved. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks in advance!

When adding the cold air intake, you may need to re-adjust your air flow meter. Air flow meter now telling the ecu that you have more air to the engine,ecu compensating by richening up the fuel mixture,hence the higher idle. Just a guess. Here's a link to the EFI bible.Should help. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

Here's mine. 1982 280ZX. A work in progress.

I have removed mine,thinking about modifying to a flat bottom for future battery relocation. Free up some space in the engine compartment.

Your welcome ,good luck with that project.

Challenger,you can get that at MSC. Here's the link. P/N 04353686 http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000058356935