jhm
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Posts posted by jhm
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Good deal…GLWS.
As an FYI for any prospective buyers, I’ve had a similar diff behind a built SBC in my 260 the last 8 years (mine has the Torsen helical LSD). No issues of any kind.
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Got my shirt yesterday, and it looks awesome…thx, Ryan! Very much appreciate all your hard work to make this happen.
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Yeah....that's way too much neg camber, Aydin. Glad you recognized that and are fixing it.
Question: how much have you extended your adjustable front LCAs (vs stock length), and is that possibly contributing to this situation?
You probably don't want to buy another set of camber plates, but I wonder if these from T3 would meet your need w/o cutting/drilling the strut tower: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/240z-260z-and-280z-solid-pillow-mounts
REALLY nice to see your car running and driving, after so much work the last couple years. I'm sure it's very gratifying.
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IINM, it looks like they were going for max caster using the BC camber plate, kind of like the EMI plates allowed with their innovative design. One can run the BC plates in the stock strut tower mounting position no problem.
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You may also want to post in the "Parts Wanted" section: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/73-parts-wanted/.
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How about these?
https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/high-clearance-outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z
Apex makes them as well.
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Thanks again for doing this, Ryan! This is such a thankless job; and this is the FIFTH time that you have volunteered to do it on your own time. Kudos, my Brother!!! 👍👍
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3 hours ago, fusion said:
I'll check into other s30s in my area but given the fact that I tried fitting the hub onto 3 different shafts already
Good point. Sorry…I missed that bit in your original post.
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No, that definitely doesn’t seem right. I’ve used several aftermarket hubs (including Momo) on my various Zs; and never had a problem like that.
Are there any other S30s in your area that you could try those hubs on?
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@Exposed, it appears that you were able to post photos on your build thread yesterday. Is everything working ok for you now? No more problems posting pics?
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Aydin, my two cents...I wouldn't recommend buying your helmet used, but everything else (suit, underwear, gloves, shoes, etc) can be found just fine used. You probably would want to buy that stuff in-person to ensure you could try it on for fit before handing over your cash. And get your helmet from a vendor that allows free exchanges, as helmet manufacturers use different sizing guidelines when constructing their helmets. You'll see vendors at most track events with new, "defect", and used gear. Even those huge swap meets you have in Cali are probably a good bet to check out for used gear.
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Great to see it moving under its own power, Aydin....Kudos! The adjustable front sway bar looks great. (And nice score on the corner scales.)
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Seems odd that it's fighting you so hard....especially since your underside seems relatively rust-free, from what I can see in your photo.
Try using some heat in addition to the penetrating oil. Heating it and cooling it multiple times will cycle the metal internally through several cycles of expansion/contraction. Can use ice for "fast cooling", which sometimes helps to break loose any internal corrosion. Worst case, unthread the entire tie rod assembly at the inner tie rod and you can continue working on it in a bench vise.
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Just wanted to say again a HUGE "Thank You" to @cockerstar for doing this (a FIFTH time)!!!! Really appreciate all his time and effort to make this happen.
You da' man, Ryan!!! 👍👍
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Could you just get a thread size checker like this, and figure it out that way?
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A HUGE thanks to Ryan for selflessly donating his time and effort to make this happen (again)!! For those that haven't seen it yet; his new apparel thread can be found here:
@LLave, @HIWAY ONE, @Mayolives, @AydinZ71, @jpndave, @Gollum, @Kennysgreen280zt, @MAG58, @superduner, @1970 240z, @seattlejester, @Neverdone, @Zetsaz, @skib
Tried to tag members that had expressed an interest in another run...sorry for the double-tap if that happened to anyone. Enjoy!!!!
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Thanks for your generous donation of time and effort, Ryan!! It's members like you that make HybridZ such a great community to be part of!
(And a HUGE kudos to you for keeping prices down.) 👍👍
Please put me down for:
(1) Tee shirt
Size: Large
Color: Military Green
Zip: 23602
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4 hours ago, NewZed said:
One fact that has been verified by many but might not be well-known is that the factory stock 280Z tank and fuel system suffers from fuel starvation on long left hand turns if the fuel level gets below about 1/3 full.
You are 100% correct there, @NewZed. I have actually had starvation issues with tank half-full (or more). Solution that worked for me was a surge tank and a better pump at the rear....now I can run the tank almost to empty, even during hard track use with sticky slicks.
Hopefully this discussion has helped the OP.
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FWIW, I agree with @AydinZ71 as well.....on just about everything he said.
@CBoynton, if you've decided that fuel cell is the best solution for your particular situation; just make sure it's installed correctly and SAFELY. I've seen way too many installs done incorrectly. As an alternative to the cell, have you considered "sealing off the spare tire area" (your words) and replacing your current tank with a used OEM tank? They're still available for $200-300 used. Just throwing out ideas here....
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@nkopp, I would strongly suggest avoiding the driver foorwell area. It's already cramped in there...with the pedal box, steering shaft, etc. I think it would be a real pain to have your electricals in there, and trying to do any periodic mx on them. I have my relays and fusebox on the firewall in the passenger footwell, and it's very easy to get to them for mx, repairs, upgrades, etc. I made a simple sheetmetal shield to cover/protect them.
@nicksoccer22, that's a good place to put them for accessibility; but are you planning to put any kind of aftermarket heater/defroster in there? If so, what unit are you planning to use? Just curious...
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@matthewabate, here's a couple threads that should help you ID which diff you have.
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453
https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105868-subaru-diff-clarification/
You can determine your diff type on inspection; and I suspect that @AydinZ71 is correct in his last line supposition.
Hope this helps.
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@Boondocker, you are aware that this thread is 15 years old, correct? The OP hasn't been on the forum in a very long time; however, did you read their post on Feb 2, 2008? It pretty much answers your question regarding fitment:
"The clearance between the distributor and the intake is the issue. The bolt hole nearest the distributor had to be machined off and a new smaller diameter ear welded on that would use an allen head bolt. Not sure about shaft length issues on the distributor but I know the gear is the metric one from the original distributor."
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It's obviously really hard to diagnose a random noise from a video; but you may be on to something regarding the headers. An exhaust leak from the headers can sound a LOT like valvetrain noise. When you try retightening the header bolts, go from inside bolts to outside bolts, and do it in steps so you're gradually clamping the header to the head evenly across the surface. If that doesn't work; remove and inspect the header gasket. If it's leaking, you may see some telltale signs of the leak(s) on the gasket material itself. Don't assume that the engine builder used the correct gasket for those headers...I've seen plenty of people install the wrong gasket for their particular head & header combination. If the gasket is correct, and a quality gasket, you can try using some copper hi-temp RTV on the sealing surfaces to help battle any leaks.
Hope this helps -- good luck with it.
Pre-Order Opportunity - ALL NEW S30 CARBON FIBER FRONT GRILL! by VINTAGE CARBON
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Nice-looking piece. Can I suggest you move your post to the Vendors' Forum? https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/27-vendors-forum/
Thank you.