supershanesta

Hey guys, I got the 240z running now which is great but getting some noise from the alternator. I noticed this lately after my afr readings were different between the gauge and the ms2. I am using a lc-2. With the car off they read the same. With the car on they vary. After seeing that result i decided to check all my grounds and moved them proper. I then unplugged my alternator and boom! They were both perfect. Plug it back in... bad again. I decided it would be a good time to replace my alternator for a 280zx one which I did and still get the same result. Has anyone had this issue and resolved it or do you just adjust your afr reading in ms2 to match the gauge? Thanks for your help, Shane

Hey Guys, I have just swapped an l28et into my 72 240z and it runs great. I got a 5 speed with my car, but it was never installed so I thought now would be the time to install it. I do not know the prior condition of the transmission, but it moved through all gears fine. I took the fly wheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing etc from my l24 4 speed transmission and bolted it on newly built l28et. The new clutch kit I bought was not bolting up properly and the flywheel the l28et it came with was in bad shape so I went with the stuff I knew worked in my old l24. Here is the problem, I can move through the gears with the shifter like butter, no issues. If I put the car in gear with the car off and I get out of the car and push it.... It can move freely. I put it in any gear, and it moves freely. With the car on, same issues. It is always in neutral. I can start it, put it in first and it idles. Does anyone have some insight on what could be potentially causing this. Maybe the whole transmission is bad? I usually assumed that the transmission would not go into gears if there was an issue. It seems as if the clutch is not engaged at all. I appreciate your help in advance. Thanks, Shane

I would just like to express my thanks for Chickenman's help throughout his whole process of making sure my wiring was correct to getting the car tuned and running. He went above and beyond to help me sort things out (we have over 50 emails back and forth ) and I would recommend his help to anyone who needs a good baseline tune and some help understanding how tuner studio works. After 2 calls with him, my car is running well! I would highly recommend contacting him.

Softopz, It was related to my second faulty CAS sensor. I replace it and I got rpm signal with zero drops. Thanks, Shane

SeattleJester, I have taped them up after i took the picture. I know that could make this megasquirt megadead.. Thanks for that advice! Shane

Hey guys. My last issue is with my Dizzy on my MS2extra I have had it working at some point during testing, but now it is not getting signal in car. I have 12v power in red position on dizzy I have white wire (tach wire) from ms2 harness in white wire position on dizzy I have black wire (tach wire) from ms2 harness in ground position on dizzy with pull up resistor in ms2. I have it wired and try to spin the dizzy by hand with no results in basic mode or in wheel mode because I am using the DIY wheel. If i tap the black tach wire to the white tach wire (creating the tach current) I get rpm signal, but through my dizzy I do not. I had one cas that came with the car that never worked so I bought the replacement to put in that worked, but now suddenly it seems fried or something. Is there an easy way to test out the cas unit? Thanks, Shane

I had the bip already installed with mica. After reloading firmware and changing the wiring it is now working. Thank you for your help!

Hello All, I am working on my Datsun 240z with an l28et swap. I have successfully wired everything besides the coil and the dizzy with the coil being my next project. I have installed the Bip and followed the instructions on DIY's site as follows. (everything else is normal wiring) Remove the jumper from JS10 to IGN or the center hole of Q16 (if exists) Jumper IGBTIN to JS10 Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN (V3.0 only) If you do not have a BIP373 transistor in the Q16 slot, install it. I am in TS trying to run the spark output test and get no spark. I have the test setup as follows... -12 volts to coil from relay with 15 amp fuse - 36 wire to negative - stock 240z coil (does use ballast resistor normally but am not using it in this test) - plug wire on coil to spark plug -spark plug grounded to chassis I have tried.... - switching output from JS10 to D14 (still confused on this) - plugging in my megastim and testing spark (LED lights up with either JS10 or D14) - checked volts on coil in car when doing test at 2ms intervals (8-9 volts) After more research I have changed the wiring as follows to follow the ms2extra guide... BIP373 (marked as 30115) needs to be installed in Q16 with a mica insulator. - Jumper IGBTOUT-IGN. - Connect a 330R 1/4W resistor between IGBTin and the top of R26. - Ensure R57 is absent. - Ensure R43 is fitted or jumped. I changed the ms2 settings as follows... - Set Spark A to D14 Spark plug wired the same. - plug to spark plug ground wire from chassis wrapped around it. Results are the same. - getting 9 volts with volt meter on pos to neg of coil when testing as 2ms interval - getting 12 volts with volt meter on pos of coil and neg on body. Questions I have... Which output should I have? JS10 or D14? Why would I be getting low volts on coil during test? This must have to do with resistance? Should I be getting 12v with key in start when not in test mode? Sorry if these questions are stupid. I am still a little confused on some of this and want to make sure I am testing things correctly. Thanks for you help, Shane