Daphur280
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Posts posted by Daphur280
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I see you're putting a 3D printer to some good engineering use!
I'm excited to see how this turns out
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This showed up in my forum feed, I found on issue drilling through the rod on the pedal. Also, the slight curve wasn't an issue. I've had these on my car since 2009 without issue. I just used longer bolts, I trimmed my clutch and brake pedal widths to make room for my wide feed. Much better with a lot more room for footwork in the pedal box.
Pics?
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You'll lose the safety features and the voltage/pump speed control. Noisier than necessary, more load on the electrical system at idle. But the Z31 ECCS can't control the pump without its associated relays, so if you don't have those you shouldn't be trying to use ECCS control anyway.
The picture's from 1986. 1984 is similar. Around page 27-29 in the EFEC chapters.
That sounds like a lot of relays. Eventually, (or initially) I will be using a "cleaned up" Z31 harness in place of the 280zxt harness, and when I approach that I will attempt to rewire the fuel pump and FPR to run as it should in that diagram. But in the meantime I just want it to run (reliably) before I change my fuel pump configuration.
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Hopefully this gets answered, I have my fuel pump isolated and has its own individual 12v switch, no relay or anything, with my 280zxt harness in my S30 I was having too many issues, so I wired it up independently from the ECU harness. With it that way will I have to worry about wiring it back up to the Z31 ecu or harness to have it run properly or can I leave it be?
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Came across these, a little more horizontal but looks like 2x would fit the upper and lower lens
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Any updates on your dilemma SDgoods?
I finally got a 84 Z31 T/A/C ECU so I'm starting on my swap tomorrow.
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Pm replied
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Need one to complete my z31 maf/ecu swap, please pm me or email @ morales3@pdx.edu for faster response, my zip is 97317. Please provide part number
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So I recently purchased a rokform iPhone case which comes with a RMS clickable locking mount that has 3m adhesive on the back and they also make a suction cup mount. I want to mount the RMS mounting in my 240z but I'm not a fan of using up window space to mount phones but I'm considering mounting my phone to the dash just underneath the 3 gauges will allow me to clip it in horiOntally or vertically. However I'm not sure how we'll the adhesive would hold to the porous dash, and I'm not sure I wanna sand it out to be smooth enough to mount it.
I'm posting this on my phone and can't submit a picture so here's a link to their website:
http://www.rokform.com/rokshield-v3-ip5/
Does anyone else have this phone case and if so did you mount the lock mount in your Z?
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Hey guys, my Z is a 4 speed and I bought a 5 speed from a friend (same friend I bought the car from he had plans to swap it in). I've searched and researched and sounds like the 5 speed will just fit right in with the clutch flywheel and driveshaft for a 4 speed. I just wanted to verify if the 4 speed shifter, trans mount, and slave cylinder will all work with the 5 speed also? I can't remember if my 5 speed came with a mount but I know it is missing the shifter. The car is a 76 280Z, if that makes a difference. Not sure which Z the 5 speed came out of, but definitely not the turbo ZX. Also, I haven't had a reason to really slide under the Z yet, does the Z use an external slave cylinder that pushes a throwout bearing fork, or does it use a hydraulic throwout bearing? Can I just unbolt this slave cylinder without disconnecting the line and bolt it back up to the 5 speed? I've never bled a clutch before and would like to avoid it if possible. Thanks guys!
Depending on the width of the shifter fork you may have to use the 5speed shifter, thats what i had to do from my early 4speed to 5speed standard and I had to cut, bend and weld the shifter to be able to keep the shifter boot. Also you can just unbolt the slave without having to open and bleed it.
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So the Z hasn't sold and I had some time to tinker, I took another shot at the brakes.
1st: I removed the check valves in the MC:
Did you remove check valve in MC?
2nd: Bench bled the MC and made sure that everything was well plugged until I reconnected it to the lines.
3rd: Adjust the push rod about 3/4 turn out
4th: Was not able to JB weld the reaction disk to the push rod, but it felt snug in there when I return the rod back into place, I'm assuming its good because I had to clock it in toe get it seated all the way.
5th: I have some un-named brand pressure bleeder that works similar to Motive power bleeder minus the adjustable pressure regulator. I thought about getting one and connecting it between the bleeder and the coupler, but I was going to wait to see what happen after this attempt.
6th: Installed spring loaded bleeder screws an all 4 corners (don't remember the brand but there not Russell)
7th: Re-bled the system
And success!
There is still a bit of distance in the pedal, before it went to the floor with almost no pressure and needed to be pump 3x to attain brake pressure, this time around I only need to press about 5/8 to get a good amount of grab. Pretty much following Miles and tamo3's advice solved the issue.
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sounds familiar
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Have you considered putting the original brake parts back on?
I had brake cylinders which were shot, the backing plate I cut off, the master cylinder was used as a core, as were my front and rear calipers...
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its on craigslist
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For your own safety I recommend that you take the car to a brake shop and let them sort things out for you. You are not going to solve the problems on-line.
I took it to one already, they said they won't work on it and I got hit with a $75 tow bill, I'm on my own -_-'
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Did you remove check valve in MC?
Am I suppose to keep those off or remove them for bleeding?
Did you say there is a hissing sound? I had that problem when I changed to the ZX 15/16 mc and found I had a leaking diaphragm in the booster . I replaced it and she works good now
The diaphragm or the whole booster? I hear he hiss at the last 1/4 of the brake pedal press, did you hear it the full length of pressing the pedal or...?
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Its not the M/C, so not sure what else it could be, no internal/external leaks, calipers have been bled 20-30x to no avail.
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UPDATE:
So I purchased a new caliper for the one that was torn, replaced it, gravity bled, vacuum/air bled system, still no pressure...
I'm a bit at odds to replacing the M/C, I just replaced what I was sure was the problem and its still not working, I don't really wanna go buck wild with replacing every component, its getting expensive.
on a side note of stupid questions: A vacuum leak on the motor wouldn't cause a pressure problem with the brakes through the booster would it?
EDIT: I seemed to have also forgot to mention that I get pressure after bleeding prior to starting the Z, but soon as I start it up all that pressure is gone... is this a clear indication of a bad booster? Which seems odd to me because its like it was fine one second and bad the next.
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any insights? I found one of the caliper piston "dust boot/piston boot" ripped and leaking brake fluid, but I think this occurred post-issue. Anyway I'm ordering new calipers this weekend, until then I still stumped at whats going on....
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Here's a video to kinda show whats going on during bleeding:
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I think your flex line is ok as long as the bleeder screw is above the flex line inlet on the caliper. I would bet a stack you have air trapped in the calipers. Remove the calipers and turn them so the bleed screw is the highest point and bleed again. I got a bunch of air out of mine even after doing the same thing while gravity bleeding, mine needed the flow of the pressure bleeder to push out the air. Take the caps off the master and watch the fluid level as you pump up the brakes, you'll see the level drop in the master if you have air in either the front or back systems. Mine only needed the back but it was enough to have a soft pedal.
So I gave this a shot today, and still no progress. I should mention when I take my pressure/vacuum bleeder to the front calipers, I get solid fluid draining out of the calipers. When I hook it up to the rear calipers I only get a trickle of fluid coming out of the calipers. like its restricted. When the bleeders are open and someone presses the brake pedal, they drain as they should. So I feel confident there is no clogs in the line.
Quantity matters also. There shouldn't be a huge imbalance between the two though. The rear reservoir may be supplying the front brakes.
Would it be supplying the front calipers from the master then if it were bleeding through? Because when the brake pedal is pressed the front caliper reservoir does not go up or down, only the rear reservoir.
The 18th I'm taking this into a brake shop and letting them take over. I'll keep making attempts to figure this out until then, but I'm running out of theories. I'll try taking a video too today of what both front and rear calipers are doing while I am bleeding them giving you guys a visual of the problem.
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So I had someone pump them with the caps off, and I noticed the front reservoir does not move however the rear reservoir goes down when the brake is held and when released it comes back up. So does that mean the air is in the rear line? Also with all the modding in the brake system would I have had to change the bias?
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You'll make a lot more progress if you get methodical and test each potential problem area individually. There's three areas right here, above. Test each one -
1. Eyeball the hose while someone pumps the brakes. Does the line expand like it's collecting fluid? It's probably not orientation but it could be a bad hose. I've not seen any red brake hose, where did it come from?
2. Watch the reservoirs as someone pumps the brakes. Which reservoir is moving more fluid? That's the system that has air in it. Unless...
3. Watch the fluid. Does it transfer from one reservoir to another? If so, your master cylinder is messed up. Does it drop and never come back? If so, you have a leak, either internal or external.
You have enough clues now to focus on exactly where the source of the problem is. You just have to pick one area at a time and dig in to each one.
1. I doubt they expand, at least on the driver side from what I can see, the lines were custom made as are the fronts from a local tube n hose shop.
2 & 3. I am unfortunately on my own. So I don't have anyone unless I ask a neighbor. I'll try tomorrow.
There is still a bit of distance in the pedal, before it went to the floor with almost no pressure and needed to be pump 3x to attain brake pressure, this time around I only need to press about 5/8 to get a good amount of grab.
78 280Z VK45/M122
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Any updates on this build?