Henness
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Posts posted by Henness
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I have a 1972 240z and I'm looking for the tailgate lock / hatch lock, 260 and 280 are different. I don't need keys but I'll take em if you have them.
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Hello everyone, my name is Brandon Henness. I've building a 240z for the past 7-8 years and I've finally "finished" it. I've made a build gallery on imgur if you're interested in checking it out. Otherwise here is a before and after of my car. It's swapped with an LS1 and a T56, upgraded suspension, big brakes, chromoly stub axles and CV shafts, self made PCB LED taillights, and much much more.
I'm currently entered in SEMA BOTB Young Guns and I'm trying to accumulate some votes so I can win a spot at SEMA in 2021. You can vote for me by following this link, you can vote every 24hr until October 25th at midnight.Thanks Everyone!
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I have been working on my LS swapped 240z for awhile now and its coming together pretty nicely. I'm currently working on designing some 3D printed brackets that use the stock mounting hardware and stock gauge bezels but with aftermarket Auto Meter Spek-Pro Gauges. I'll post more pictures as I design more of the brackets that I need.
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Best advice I can give you is to rent this tool
http://www.1320wheels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=334
No guess work and no worries.
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Just wanted to throw out some options I have found while dealing with my car.
Panels and Patch Panels:
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=30
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02o04b
https://zcardepot.com/exterior/sheet-metal
Glass Panels:
http://www.ztrix.com/other-z-zx-parts/Glass and Carbon Panels:
http://retro-spec.myshopify.com/collections/datsun
Frame Rails and Floor Pans:
http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_4&zenid=eb291577759b57b38408d098266790cc
https://www.c2cfabrication.com/collections/all/datsun
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02o02j -
TBH I don't mind paying a little be extra to buy from T3. Only because I have got stuff from them before and I know what to expect. But if you had a name or something I might look into that guy.
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Thanks guys when I get my suspension back under it I'll do some measuring, I might end up ordering some Watanabe's from T3.
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I have a 1972 240z with coilovers, sectioned struts (1.5" in the front 1.75" in the rear), and 5 lug conversation. I'm trying to weigh my options, I would love to run these wide zg flares from Retro-Spec:
http://retro-spec.myshopify.com/collections/datsun/products/datsun-280z-260z-240z-wide-zg-fender-flares
and I'm looking at the Rota RKR 17x9.5 -20 wheels. I just don't know if these wheels are wide enough to fill out the flares, should I be looking for somthing wider? I love the Watanabe style wheels but does anyone know of any other companys besides Rota or Watanabe that make a wider version of this wheel? -
Thanks guys that's what I needed.
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I did some searching on this for my own project about 2 months ago. All the after market parts places I checked listed universal boots, and if they did list OE fit they weren't available. Nissan showed them for $75! but that's too much for a piece of rubber and some grease. I would say go to your local parts place and ask them if you can look through their boots. Take your old one and try and find one that is close.
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I purchased two Z31T CV axles from two wrecking yards for my 240z rear end swap. One of them came with a grease cap and the other didn't. Does anyone know of any universal cap that might fit or does anyone have a axle with a broken housing or something that would be willing to give up their cap?
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Like a said I don't want to step on anyone's toes, but I started making one 3 weeks ago. I had to order larger threaded rod because 3/4" wasn't cutting it. I'll just sit on these for awhile.
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I finally finished mine last weekend, I had to borrowed a friends lathe. But I got it and it worked like a charm. I ended up using 1" ACME rod. I'm keeping an extra as a spare, But I have 4 other if anyone wants one. I don't mean to under cut you or any thing Keith, but I have no use for 6 of these things.
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What is a fair price for 280zx louvers? Its the aluminium version and the paint is faded so it needs a coat of paint, other than that it seems to be in good condition. MSA lists one for $339.95 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02g01/50-1063AL
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Where did you get your ac mount and what compressor did you go with? Sorry if I missed it earlier
I used the universal vintage air mount brackets you can buy. I spaced the sanden 508 compressor to the truck spacing depth and it actually works! Tight fit (less than 1/2" to the inner fender) but this compressor and setup will not work with non-truck setups. It nearly hits the coolant temp sensor location on the driver side head as it sits. Truck spacing is 3/4" forward of the ls1 f-body setup or equivalent. Check back through my previous posts. I think I have some pictures and info on it.
You did miss it.
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Yea. I think im gonna go with a slightly larger rod, and use a freinds lathe. If it was and SAE thread that didn't go as deep I wouldn't be concerned, but with this ACME its so thin by the time you drill a 27/64 hole in it.
As for the threads, I find that extreamly odd because its definantly 1.75 and the thread are not messed up. Just makes me concerned that someone put the wrong stuff in there at some point. I guess it doesnt matter Im replacing them anyway.
Thanks for the help John!
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Well after 4 attempts at drilling a hole 100% perfectly straight and center on my drill press, I have given up. With the 3/4" ACME rod there is just absolutely no room for error. the hole drilled fine but when I go to thread it it just makes holes in the bottom of the threads. I have decided to go with a some bigger ACME thread instead 7/8" or 1". Should solve my problem, guess I'll just use the rest of this rod on another project. :/
On a side note what thread pitch are the pins normally anyway? Because for some reason mine are 12-1.75 instead of the 12-1.25 like you posted above.
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Drill and tap both ends in the event you strip the threads out you only need to change ends on the puller.
The 3/4 reducer goes towards the pin.
John
Thats what I was thinking. Do the threads on these fail eaisly?
Okay wasn't sure, I probly would have found out when I tryed to use it the wrong way.
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I made my own puller today from john's shopping list. I drilled out one end but I still need to tap it, I didn't have the right size in my set. Does any one know why john said to drill and tap both ends? The only reason I can come up with why you would do that is if the threads maybe got messed up on one end???
I was forced to buy 6' of the threaded rod so if this thing ends up working I can make 5 more if people want to buy them from me. I haven't priced it per tool yet but I would assume I could sell them for the same price John was @ $60 Shipped.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Horn button contacts steering shaft with NRG steering wheel hub
in Interior
Posted
I have a 1972 240z I swapped the steering wheel out with a Sparco steering wheel and an NRG steering wheel hub. I'm not able to push the horn button that came with the Sparco steering wheel all the way into the hole because the horn button terminals contact the steering shaft and ground the horn circuit causing the horns to blare. Is this a common issue with the NRG hub or is this because I chose a Sparco sterring wheel? I don't see how using a different steering wheel would change anything though because the steering wheel would be mounted in the same exact spot. So maybe other brand steering wheels have lower profile horn buttons that don't contact the shaft on the back side? Am I alone in this problem or does someone know of a horn button that would work?