Richard Oben

I have not fired up the LSZ with the full CXR exhaust on it but will report later. That being said, we have put auger style inserts in several cars, they cause the gases to tumble and it makes a huge difference in sound and cause very little back pressure. The flow through mufflers with external packing all get louder with time. We found this on the side pipes with the Factory Five cars we build. We have replaced side pipes completely with the auger mufflers and they are a tin sound without the booming. On my stock 240Z I put a car chemistry insert (not an auger style just baffles with no glass) in the MSA exhaust as it was too loud for the stock car and droned, it does create a bit of pressure but the stock exhaust was so much smaller than the MSA it was not a big deal. Hope this helps. Opinion to follow: For the money I would get an auger insert from speedway or who ever and just stick it in a joint and see if it helps. Richard.

I have virtually no room from the header to the bell housing on the CXR V band to the housing, I mean like a sheet of paper room, thought it was going to hit. I doubt even the blanket will fit. If the QT is any bigger forget it with the CXR Headers. JMHO, Richard.

Nice work. Going slow is fine when the results are that good. Richard.

Congrats, that is a huge milestone, well done!!

I used an 04 GTO as a donor. I had to redo the shifter and its mounting as stated above, other than that it appears to be fine. It is in the car and other than a couple of ears being trimmed it fits in a Series 1 240. I did swap the output yoke when I had the driveshaft made, the GTO used the rubber donut and now it has a regular U joint on both ends. HTH, Richard.

I am not sure but I doubt it. The CAN bus I believe is part of the Body control module. Speed hut can send you the gauges with their own senders so that will be easier. I could easily be completely wrong. Richard.

On the Z the vapor line runs into the Air Cleaner and PVC so not a lot of suction. The LS runs the PVC to the manifold and gets air after the meter. I am pretty sure any vapors will be minimal and should not cause any harm to start up. JMHO, no real knowledge, just knowing assuming the computer runs rich at start up a little vapor is not going to be an issue. Richard.

I have the Datsun vent system mostly capped. Kept the vent at the filler and the one on the top of the tank. The one on the top of the tank runs to the vapor tank on the Z and then the one from the tank runs through the Z vapor line to the front and goes in the air intake behind the MAF and ahead of the throttle body. I did not keep the purge solenoid either but I can only assume it would work. My concern was without the vapor canister and its pressure sensor would it throw a code. JMHO, Richard.

Like it never even happened... Great news. Richard.

CXR kit here so far so good, just put motor in last Friday.

It was from a company on eBay but it was in theory their last one. Just searched every other day or so until one was buy it now and not stupid money. Got luck I guess. Richard.

The finned tube cooler is what I was referring to above. We got the lines, fittings and cooler from Speedway Motors. HTH, Richard.

Just my opinion, and its free so take it any way you want. The number one failure of automatic transmissions is heat. No matter how easy you are on the car the trans will get hot. Also I think you have to have at least a loop for the cooler lines or the pump may dead head. Run a cooler, at least run the one in the radiator, it works as a pre heater and cooler. If you do not have one in the radiator run a thermostatically controlled one. maybe mount it behind the diff with a fan built in. Put a gauge in it and see what the temps run, I think you will be surprised. We just did a finned cooler on a 32 ford with a turbo 400 and a giant pan. So for almost no money it at least has some cooling.

Drool, drool, you owe me a keyboard lol.

I bought the whole set up on eBay for about $260 and it was all new and GM. I had to watch and search for a while. Like most of the parts on these cars patience is the best way to get the parts needed. I would like to see the Dorman part though. Richard.

Where is the like like like button. So the LS power wasn't enough? Impressed it fits that clean. Nice work all the way. Richard.

That took DAYS to do nice work, never had the guts to do my own cage work... probably smart on my part. Keep up the posts. Richard.

https://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/blog/12-v-air-conditioning-compressor-how-can-you-decide-if-one-is-right-for-you/ I think this is what you are referring to, but that will be a lot harder than the JCI AC compressor mount. VA mini or compact behind dash.

Any of the mid 70s ford cars and trucks have the 90 deg hoses, some in 5/8 and some in 3/4 on the bent end. They come in short and long versions. We use them all the time in stuff. Order for a 75 ford pick up with a 302. HTH, Richard.

That looks like they are doing a good job, there is lots of work there, it takes some skill to get it all to line back up. Before they get too far make sure everything is sealed up really well to avoid the dreaded Z exhaust back draft. Congrats on progress! Richard.

Any pics of the cutting the car in half and putting it back together? That would be cool. Richard.

Craig, I just went to Tanks inc and order two part numbers PA4 and a PA REC and then had it welded in. HTH, Richard.

Another member here gave me the idea, it was not cheap but I thought it was the right way to go. I bought a kit from Tanks Inc. with a weld in drop for the top of the tank. The kit has its own pump, and sump etc. The kit was about $230 plus the drop in $45 with shipping etc almost $300, plus having it welded in was another $200. So I am in for $500 but I have the stock Z tank with an in tank pump, stock sending unit and I get to keep the spare tire well and will not likely burn up pumps. AND I do not have to listen to the pump. I could have cut the floor and just top mounted the pump insert onto the Z tank, but then I would have had a hole and a bump in the floor to box in. It would have saved about $250. JMHO, your money, your decision, your car, your floor. HTH, Richard.

What NewZed said. The questions you are asking are good ones, but they are fairly beginner questions, my guess is you are young and enthusiastic which is good. NOTHING IS PLUG AND PLAY, PERIOD. NO CURRENTLY AVAILABLE HARNESS WILL SWAP INTO THE Z EASILY. We have wired cars from start to finish from the ground up, the simple stuff is simple, keeping things like hazards, interior lights, etc working correct are harder than they appear. In one car we built we used a Corvette engine and fuel tank harness and tied it to a painless (oxymoron if there ever was one) chassis harness for power windows, lights etc. It took days and days to get it all tied together and we still had a few gremlins. For the Datsun 240Z I had my LS1 GTO engine harness cut down (computer refreshed also), current plan is to use the Z chassis harness and update the gauges to match the LS1. HTH, Richard.

The engine harness goes to the UHFP (under hood fuse panel) so it can run the fan, AC etc. If you dissect just the engine parts the rest can be sold. I know that sounds simple but the harness needs three wires to run, HOT, Ign hot, ground. It should have a fuel pump out, OBDII out, VSS, AC request and a few others I can not think of at this moment. I can tell you this. LS1 tech is so your friend on this stuff. HTH, Richard.