softopz

That's a good idea. People do love more pics .The last 5 kits already included detailed instructions, specific harness diagram for each customer (incase they got additional EBC or wideband added) and pictorial of what's included. In the original post I did mention it removes the AFM, ecu and harness: but not fusible links. I have a new site just opened its still a soft launch been working on vacation! www.protunerz.com the harness/ecu will be up there soon with additional options and information. Guys I have some great products Soley manufactured for our cars. I can't say too much but will be definetly something that's unique. Hopefully coming in the later year please follow on Instagram and our Facebook page when released. Instagram: protunerz_com Facebook: PROTUNERZZ Website: http://www.protunerz.com

How much power did she make?

I went with a chinese gt35 on my last build I also own a genuine garrett gt35r. They have journal and BB types watch out theres some that say BB but only the compressor side I believe. They are a fraction of the price and they have gotten much better in the manufacturing side. I dont have much mileage on it but so far shes breathing 17psi no issues. Also just price difference between a name brand journal bearing and BB is the equivalent of the best chinese turbos. Many people have been running them for years, ie youtube channel boostedboiz sloppy mechanics etc etc.

Have you adjusted the VR pots per manual.

Looking at your pics again I see some potential issues. I would not put a "pull up "resistor like thats why theres a proto area. You can make things more tidy and if a connection was to break from bad joint or shock/vibration you have a short waiting to happen there. Use the proto area or atleast put it on a wire and heat shrink it. Secondly I can see some of your mods but can you can list ALL your jumpers like this VROUT TO ABCXD , s12- js9 etc etc somethings in your pics is just not adding up maybe I have been on vacation too long. But me thinks you will not get RPM or Spark out. with MS theres more than 1 way to do the same thing.

Not just random has to have power while cranking too.

Second that his patience and skills are excellent.

Depends on what megastim you have and the switch it's set at. Sometimes they don't read better to set up harness and plug in distributor.

Have you tried to reflash firmware? Then reload your tune. You would be suprised what I have seen that fix.

No I don't have a website. I just sent you a pm.

I tried emailing you it for returned back. Maybe a typo. Im not doing harness's till July 1st when I return from family trip.

You should have stopped there and figured out the issue. Maybe you have a diode backwards. Make sure all banded ends are on the side noted on board. Also certain capacitors have to be installed correctly. I would look at your board and follow the steps one by one.

I told you as well this is all you need to do Place the JP1 jumper in the 1-2 position. Place the J1 jumper in the 5-6 position(diy method). OR 3-4 Position (msextra manual) Put a 1K resistor in the R57 slot (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, as above.). 480ohms seems to be the sweet one but any from 300-1k is enough Remove the jumper from JS10 to IGN or the center hole of Q16 (if exists) Jumper IGBTIN to JS10 OR other outputs pin 7 of ECU daughter card is recommended more adjust the pots according manual I wouldnt worry about your 10v now because your car is not running and what its the state of your battery. Your MS2 ground should be on engine your POWER grounds should be at bat - or starter. Wire in your relayboad / Harness set your timing and your good to go

There is a step before you complete the board that test the power circuit in the assembly did you do that.

Yes do NOT USE THE HALL INPUT anymore we really need a sticky on this and have DIYautotune update the installation article. VR should be used for practically every MS input. ONLY hall/opto should be used for fuel ONLY setups running coil NEG for trigger input. \ adjust your pots and measure top of R54 2.2-2.5v is good its all in the msextra manual here http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/MS2V30_Hardware-3.4.pdf Also if your building your 3.0 board also use the MS extra pdf has the build up info with newer methods for building a board even though Megamanual works. IE c30 13) As long as you’re NOT using the coil –ve as the trigger input (Fuel only) find C30 and instead install it in H1/Boot (This adds smoothing to the battery voltage measurement and reduces the chance of noise getting injected into the CPU from the 12V line.) Chickenman said it get the DIY wheel , Get a BIP and toss the HEI out. When setting up the 3.0 board do the pull up resistor inside the board instead of your wiring. This is the good thing about MS and the bad theres so many ways of doing something and what works for one person may not work (depending on the hardware they have or ECU so many variables) PLUS with new methods of doing installs the old "stickys" are still the "go to" .

I went to fabric shop bought some thin foam and black marine vinyl. You can take your old as a stencil and make it a bit bigger you have about half an to an ich where you can pinch it in. Mine came off my roof wasnt clean and used a weak adhesive.

I believe your on ms3x Sequential it would be allot of work to get A stock z Tach to work is just to switch to the MS tach output from the many spare outputs you have and to a late 280z tach it was fairly easy getting a setup I just did to get his tach to work this way. But please let us know how it goes as theres always more than one way to skin a cat.

Exceptional work as always. Derek your getting famous.... the other day someone tells me to swap more like slap a K series head he said its been done!

I am still making the harness's. Although, I will be gone from MAY 1s to JULY 1st . The two current setups I have will be definitely done before then. I dont know if we can squeeze before then or not PM me when you are ready.

Some wheels need re-torquing I find.

yes sure

I dont see your pm history and he never mentioned what type.of boost controller he had. Agreed the gate inlet /outlet is most likely the cause. I could of hooked it up with HDI EBC ! I have no issues with creep

@seattlejester I think we overlooked somthing I dont think your gate is too small I am starting to think your not plumbed right. Your not getting surge or other issues your building too much boost. From the precision manual How is your EBC/MBC plumbled? whats odd is my 38mm tial I have a bleeder type and I am only using one banjo vacuum source. ( ill have to look again but im pretty sure only one is connected) Set it to A method according to lower illustration and see if it hold spring method regardless of gear.

I had no problems at all with surge, creep or maintaining boost. My current setup is not remote its like 7-9" away. I made 430ft/tq at 22 psi with a bone stock head with old wastegate design too and wastegate was actually a tighter angle and further away from manifold. Elephant trunk you mean by the rad flex no not at all except the rubber couplers! They were cheap no ply re-inforcements> I had to run that because my Radiator outlet different size than my thermostat housing. Its a chevy or ford v8 radiator before everyone was making s30 rads for cheap. Iam running the flex on my burgandy 240z now grey and the black on is the stroker.

Sorry for multiple post but here is another idea would solve both wastegate location and dump pipe length. Depending if you go A or B Get this or 2x for bends and length https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wastegate-Dump-Tube-For-Tial-38MM-35MM-Pipe-Actuator-Turbo-Racing-Exhaust-dump/122003842169?hash=item1c67fee479:g:GJIAAOSweIlZaF-a&vxp=mtr you can do two things with it. A. cap your old wastegate hole, Make new hole underneath manifold at collecter at 45 angle, weld straight tube leaving the flanged end for your wastegate, your second pipe could be used for your dump either merge or dump. I know it cast a friend of mine welded my l28et manifold just needs lots of pre heat / after heat for welding so it wont crack! B use the pipe to bolt on to manifold, you may need to make some pie cuts or section it to make it the wastegate go underneath manifold and make new dump with your old flanges and piping. Attached are my old wastegate/downpipe setup. Notice the tight angle and location of wastegate inlet from cylinders 3/4 I had no boost issues at all ! with a gt35r/38mm tial and stroker motor. The only reason I changed it completely is the flange was touching my new intake manifold. The new setup is like how I suggested A go.