[BMW S54 into S30 Chassis - Build Thread]

3 hours ago, carbuilder723 said:

@Aerodynamic The reason I ended up going with power steering was pretty much only to avoid having to crank on the wheel so hard in the parking lot/ driveway. Also, I have an M3 already and love the steering feel in that car, granted it's is a much more modern suspension design. I also already had the power steering rack sitting on the shelf, so I figured, "why not?".

 

The custom front subframe was a combination of a few factors... mainly I wanted the engine to be down low and as far back as I could reasonably expect. I started by modifying the original subframe, but found as I went deeper into it, that it just wasn't going to allow me to accomplish those two goals, in addition to fitting a power steering rack in also. So, I bit the bullet and just went custom.

 

But don't worry, if you still want to do the engine swap, it is possible to do it with a modified stock cross member. If that's the way you go, I would keep the original steering rack and just position the engine around it.

 

@grannyknothas done a similar swap.

Another thread I've used as a huge inspiration is: https://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/139679/bmw-m3-powered-240z

It'll be an interesting comparison having the same rack/powerplant in two cars from totally different eras. I remember stumbling across that retrorides thread a few years ago and getting the idea in my head. It gives good idea of the work involved to make it all fit. Thanks again and looking forward to more progress!

[BMW S54 into S30 Chassis - Build Thread]

On 6/10/2022 at 2:06 PM, carbuilder723 said:

Thanks, I appreciate the complement!

My goal is realistically to have a fun street car. But... I do want some key systems to be up to the task of track duty should I want to do that also. (Fuel cell, Recaro seats, harnesses / half cage, lots of cooling for the engine etc...).

I do plan on having AC and power steering in the car...the engine and transmission are mounted on OEM BMW rubber isolators, and the exhaust will be relatively tame. I want to be able to comfortably drive it so it will have an interior, albeit not the same as the original.

 

The other thing I've kept in mind a lot is trying to think about the serviceability in the future.  I've tried to use parts that should be available for a long time into the future as well as think about the process involved with repairing something should it break down.

You're welcome, that sounds like a good balance you're striving for. I also agree with your sentiment that serviceability is important,  especially with Z parts getting harder to find (at reasonable prices at least lol).

 

I've been super torn weighing the pros and cons of whether to incorporate a power rack into my own build plan. Right now I'm leaning slightly towards keeping my manual rack.... I'm not sure how hard of a decision it was for you, but your crossmember design is pretty inspiring. What swayed you most in the end? 

[BMW S54 into S30 Chassis - Build Thread]

Been following your build for a little while and I just wanted to say excellent job on your continued progress. I have a wrecked 2005 M3 and have been planning this swap myself for some time.

 

Out of curiosity, what are your plans/goals for the use of the car? Will it be a more track focused machine (chassis reinforcement, minimal interior)? Purely a street car? Or of course, a mixture of the two! Thanks  

 

 

[Coilover spring rubbing on strut tube/ Causing suspension bind?]

On 5/31/2019 at 10:59 AM, JMortensen said:

Since you mentioned bumpstops, what kind of bumpstops are you going to run? They're actually a very important part of the suspension, and most people with Zs run hard, crude, polyurethane from Energy Suspension, which suck donkey balls. I would suggest if you don't already have them you look at some of the longer, more compressible ones like Koni or FatCat Motorsports sells. They act more like a spring than a piece whose only responsibility is to keep suspension parts from slamming together.

 

 

Hey sorry for the slow reply.  Didn't get notified that anyone replied.

 

Since I have Koni struts, I went with Koni's own bump stop.  Part number 70.34.95.000.0 

I agree with you.  Some of those poly bump stops aren't any different than not having bump stops at all.

 

[Coilover spring rubbing on strut tube/ Causing suspension bind?]

So I checked over the suspension and yes, there are definitely needle bearings in the top hats below the camber plates.  I have bearings for the springs on order so I'll see if they help.

 

 

13 hours ago, jhm said:

Aerodynamic, when you say that the T3 gold blocks already have bearings on them; are you talking about the spherical mono ball bearing that's press-fit into the gold block?  If so, that just controls the top of your strut shock shaft; but doesn't really do anything to enable smooth rotation between the spring and strut body.  Needle bearings in the top hats and/or the lower spring perch will enable that smooth rotation.

 

Yes sir, I was talking about those.  I realize now those bearings aren't actually dealing with rotation of the shock body directly.

 

I'm going to be heading to the alignment shop again soon, as I have installed some adjustment in the rear I would like to dial in.  I'll ask them to take a look at the fronts again once I install the bearings and new bump stops.

[Coilover spring rubbing on strut tube/ Causing suspension bind?]

On 5/27/2019 at 8:15 PM, jhm said:

Does this happen on both sides, or just the left side?

 

Are you using the T3 top hats, with integrated needle bearings?  Or at least some sort of bearings in the coilover system?  You can get them in any size and use at the top hat or the lower spring perch, or both.  It sounds like your spring and front strut tube are not turning together; thereby 'catching' on the threaded sleeves, causing a hitch...and also damaging the sleeve as well.

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

This just happens on the left side.  The right side seems to have no wear whatsoever, and the spring and strut tube turn together smoothly.  I'll double check if they came with bearings in the hats.

 

On 5/28/2019 at 8:14 AM, JMortensen said:

It's pretty common for the spring to wear on the coilover sleeves. The problem is worse when you use longer springs. The longer the spring, the more it deflects.

 

Bearings under one or both ends of the springs are a good idea as they help the spring to compress with less friction and will allow the strut to rotate more freely. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Strange-S1409-Spring-Seat-Bearing-Kit-2-pack-Torrington/123588766568?hash=item1cc676eb68:g:SvYAAOSwNm5ZsbJl

 

I know that the gold blocks in the T3 camber plates have bearings built in.  So in short, I need those bearing top hats in addition to the bearings already in the camber tops?  

The coilovers came pre-assembled from T3 before the install.  I'll have to check if they had the hats with bearings, if not I'll definitely be getting a set.

 

Funny that it would happen only on one side...

[Coilover spring rubbing on strut tube/ Causing suspension bind?]

Hi everyone, 

 

I was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem concerning my left front coilover.  I have new T3 coilovers on the car along with camber plates that I installed relatively recently.

 

I have maybe driven ~200 miles since the install, however I have noticed when turning left at low speeds (such as backing out of a parking spot), the spring and perch will bind causing a really loud "pop" noise.  Please see linked video.  Apologies if the size is large, I couldn't figure out how to change it. 

 

 

As you can see by the sharpie mark I made, the perch does not turn smoothly.  It seems to bind and then pop with the spring into place.  The popping noise is fairly loud and makes me look like a terrible owner haha 😭.

 

 I then jacked the car up and noticed that the spring is rubbing and has shaved off part of the threaded section.  This is probably what is causing it to get stuck:

 

 

I guess the spring is somehow misaligned between the upper and lower perches, but it seemed odd as the spring was properly seated on the lower perch when the car was loaded.  I dropped the strut assembly and checked for straight alignment (which it looked perfectly fine), bolted it back in, and put sharpie on the threads to see if it would still rub.  It still rubs!!! 

 

Anyone have any suggestions on what to do next? The popping and now the visible rub is making me not want to drive the car

 

[WTB WEBER DCOE 151 Carburetors]

Found what I was looking for.  Thanks everyone.

 

Moderators,

 

I wish to close this thread. 

[Post pics of your z's here!!]

Hi, first post here!  

 

My 1974 Datsun 260Z...

 

 

 

I am daily driving it now, but I want to put more serious work into it!