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kerrys914

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Posts posted by kerrys914

  1. Thanks Nismopick... The wiring diagram is not 100% complete. There is another diagram out there which shows the two wires (ECCS & 12v switched power) being conencted. The ground noted in the FSM is actually the chassis ground, not a wired ground as I thought.

     

    Cheers 

  2. Can someone confirm the coil wiring?

     

    I am doing one final check of my harness....The wiring diagram in the (81 and 82) FSM has the 2 prong connector at the coil ignitor  going to the ECCS (yellow) and the other going to ground. The post above states this Black/white wire need to go to a switched 12v (not ground). Just curious as I am not seeing this in the FSM.

     

    Thanks

  3. Thanks.

    Correct. AllI really need is the engine and related ECU.

     

    I am searching on here for additional info but it swaping the parts over from s complete car seems doable.

     

    The car with a bad engine (ran low on oil do to a failure of some kind) car has been sitting for 8 years and it 100% complete. Looks like the car had some good parts to sell off. Wheels, T-tops..etc

     

    The other car with the good engine is being hacked for a body kit. Body is junk but drivetrain is reported to be good.

     

    I was also thinking maybe I could rebuild the bad "locked up" engine while running my current engine is running with the turbo parts.

     

    Big difference in price too, 2x the cost.

     

     

    Thanks again.

  4. I have two options in front of me for my L28et swap:

    1. Complete car with a locked up engine but car is in okay shape ~ $600

    2. Running engine but car is crap ~$1100

     

    With engine #1, I would take the needed L28et parts off the bad engine and put them on my L28 NA engine which is running well now and sell off the unused 280zx car parts

     

    With engine #2, I would put the whole engine in my car as the swap. Not sure I could sell the unused car parts off due to the pool condition.

     

    Thoughts and thanks

  5. Just to close this issue out..

     

    I ended up adding 1" alum. spacers between the T3 camber plate and Z body.

     

    I would recommend only cutting the rear struct .75" rather then 1.5" (which is typical) if you plan on using T3 (possibly other's) camber plates.

     

    I also added spring perch/collar needle bearings to aid in the adjustment of the the collar.

     

    Cheers

  6. Alright here's an update for anyone who searches and needs more information.

     

    For a 280z only...

    The final front strut tube casing measured from the bottom inside of the strut tube to the top of the threads is the following : 13.5" (originally 15" total)

    The final rear strut tube casing measured from the bottom inside of the strut tube to the top of the threads is the following : 16.75" (originally 18" total)

     

    I would caution to cutting too much off. I added a 1" alum. spacer to the rear of my 280z. I only removed 1.5" from the rear and was unable to get enough height from my GC coilovers.

     

    I attributed this to using T3 camber plates and losing the added height from the stock insulators. I think .75" is more then enough to take out of the struts and still get full travel, unless you are going for a low car.

     

    With 1.5" removed and 24" dia tires, the rocker panel seam was 5" above the ground at the highest setting and I could go as low as 4" (IIRC). I wanted to have about 6" at the rocker seam to make the car usable on the city streets, which I am now at with my spacers (with1-2 turns of preload) 

     

    Just my observations from my car.. Best of luck

  7. I am making a some 1" spacer to put between my T3 camber plates and car body. Same basic shape as the T3 camber plates.

     

    The issue on mine (280z) is when the stock insulator was removed to install the camber plates I lost about 1" of height.

     

    T3 can make these (they make them for other cars, just not the Z). He said if he gets more requests he can make them.

     

    I am supersized more people haven't had this issue. I only removed 1.5" from the rear and now think I should have only removed about .75" since I knew I was using camber plates.

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