Invincibleextremes
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Posts posted by Invincibleextremes
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Weld in plate to get the max caster and bring strength back to the shock tower.
The reason for the needed caster mod, is the mustang spindles have an offset bearing, and were designed for 8 degrees of caster in general.
Proper wheel placement in a Datsun s30 requires the offset balljoint and shock top. David in the dark blue car just cut his front fenders instead, and kept his ball joint in the normal location.
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new front bolt on control arms available that make the 2014 mustang spindle swap a bolt on deal.
green car also has baer brakes and he really likes them.
the suspension picture isn't of the new arms, but is of the spindle swap in general. This particular car has modded stock arms.
faded red car has the front spindle swap and the rear 2015 mustang hub and diff swap too.
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175 mph back to back Class wins for Davids Blue 260z with a 434ci LSX running a half mile event.
Terry's green car has over 1,000whp but turned down for pump gas it pulled a 1.3 60ft on a 6.0 @ 118 run for the 1/8 mile.
his best so far has been 9.3 @ 150 mph in the 1/4 mile and 5.9 @ 126 in the 1/8.
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There's an optional piece now that replaces the mustache bar and rear drop downs and drastically strengthens the rear of the car and completely illuminates the toe issues these cars sometimes come with from the factory.
The newest version of the mustache replacement is lighter and has more provisions for fuel line routing.
It ties in the mustache bar anchor points with the 4 drop down bolts, making the entire back of the car incredibly strong, while still having proper isolation in the rear differential mount for the cradle via common aftermarket mustang bushings.
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Gotta love the guys with parachutes and huge turbos.
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David hit 171 mph repeatedly in the half mile event recently and looked darn good doing it.
He also spent the weekend kicking butt at ls fest proving once again the absolute reliability of the super 8.8 setup.
His lsx 434 hit a best of 10.3 @ 141 mph with a DA of over 4000 and him using a 100 shot.
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36 minutes ago, Wedge said:
So what did you end up doing in the rear ?
This is the sister thread to the rear diff swap thread. More people do the diff swap than the front actually, and many do all 4 corners.
Thread for the rear is in the drivetrain forum.
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Good news is by the time you decide, you will hopefully have seen my own rusty pile on the road, or at least more and more super 8.8 swapped projects out and about this coming show season.
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Stock smallest is the v6 2005 brakes, they are 11.5 and comfortably fit 16 inch wheels, and struggle with 15s.
There are aftermarket 2005 to 2014 front brakes by wilwood and others that are 4 piston calipers and are specifically designed for 15 inch wheels.
At that point, you still benefit from the taller balljoint, the Ackerman, and camber at the hub adjustment, but aren't saving much money, because s197 aftermarket brakes aren't 200 dollars like the factory refurbished ones are.
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Definitely agree with using the biscuit style and then squeezing some caster out of it as well. You won't need much camber on the street, and that's where the caster really helps you out.
Maybe a hassle to adjust, but you won't have to cut, so thats your only option unless you want to change your track width on those kinds of adjustments.
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As time goes on, more and more of the kits get installed on various project cars, mild to wild, including my own rusty widebody car.
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On 11/20/2022 at 7:02 PM, SH4DY said:
Funny, I actually just got an '08 Explorer diff heading my way courtesy of ebay. I need to reach out to DSS about a custom set of axles and see what that damage is compared to the Apex kit.
Does your car not squat? I'm stock fenders and with 245 dr2 Hoosiers you can see where they touch, presumably on the launch. That was with the stock cxracing springs though (240lb). I've got 500lb springs in there now but never got back to the track to try them.
Explorer 8.8 and apex aren't going to hold your hp. Guys with far less hp have issues with both the diff and the flex in the apex parts.
I was referring to the super 8.8, which is a 34 spline monster that costs peanuts and comes out of the 2015 mustang.
That gold car is andrews, and is a 6 speed car that puts down procharged 6.0 ls power effortlessly with the super 8.8 and mustang hubs.
Also, the 8 ball cv axles with 300m shafts cost HALF of what dss would charge you, and that's not even talking about the cost savings involved in not having to upgrade the 280z outer stubs etc.
Gold car is andrew waldony, not hard to find on Instagram, or just look me up, same name on Instagram as on here, i tag all my high hp customers in pictures of their cars.
You can waste your money, or you can get what actually works.
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Designed a replacement for the r200 mustache bar that ties in the suspension mounts too, but still has bushings for the rear of the diff cradle.
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Nick shredded his r200 turbo axles, and his r200 whined, so he swapped to the super 8.8 and did the front mustang spindle swap with boss 302 brembos too.
Motor is turbo 1jz making around 600 with an e85 tune.
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On 9/27/2022 at 11:22 AM, SH4DY said:
The 8.8 IRS may not be cost prohibitive if I fabbed everything up on my own, but I'd still be limited by the IRS suspension geometry and wheel/ tire size. Also, it's not the strength of the R200 that I'm concerned about. There are cars using them going way faster than I am.
If I went with an SLA I could easily fit the 275/60r15 drag radial I want to run in the stock wheel wells. Right now I'm limited to a 245 (currently running a 245/45r17 Hoosier DR2). I'm also not talking about a production 9" - I'd be looking at a Currie/ Moser 3rd member and possibly a Tin Soldier or Moser housing. After axles, that's close to the TechnoToys 8.8 swap cost (~$6k) but can handle 2,500+hp.
Another alternative is finding someone to make a custom ring and pinion? I'm sure that won't be cheap though. Or find an old Kameari gear set?
I'll look into the 8.8 IRS some more. Maybe if I can find someone to buy my current setup I could offset the cost.
A $200 3.31 lsd mustang diff would easily hold your hp and then some.
The kicker would be the kit itself, which is substantially cheaper than the t3 setup but definitely not free.
265mm tire on stock fenderwells won't be an issue.
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It won't help too much, but it will give you more caster if you drill 3 new holes in the shock towers.
It's a tight fit but this particular car ended up with 4.5 degrees of caster, and thats with doing a 2014 mustang spindle swap up front, which we chose to move his balljoints back half an inch to offset the bearing center being forward.
You should get even more caster with stock datsun spindles and will also allow you to freely use an adjustable tension rod without performance losses.
For example, my own rusty pile of junk has over 8 degrees of caster, but i sectioned and opened up my shock tower tops and moved the top back over an inch. My bottom balljoint is moved back half an inch as well.
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After 4,500 miles in two weeks, and a dozen low 10 and high 9 second passes, Jason is back home from Rocky Mountain race week, having driven the ENTIRE way and placing 3rd place in the 10.00 true street class.
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The mustang diff in this application takes up ALL of the available space, but no cutting of the body is needed. It's a simple replacement for the r200.... after you get coilovers anyway.
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If you're planning on making enough power to fully use a 3.36 gear then don't bother keeping the r200 or trying to find one and then put an lsd in it...
3.31 mustang diff is already 34 spline lsd and they're 100 bucks plus shipping on ebay.
The 31 spline explorer diff can be 3.27 as well, but they're nowhere near as reliable or strong and the kits from every company that sells explorer swap kits has SERIOUS issues and an unacceptable failure rate. Several of the guys who swapped to the mustang super 8.8 had catastrophic failure at moderate to low hp levels when they had other setups... and some of them were expensive and name brand...
Mustang brakes are 150 bucks for the rear,
Mustang hubs are 150 for the pair
And a diff is anywhere from 100 to 1200 bucks depending on ratio.
Ironically the taller 3.31 and 3.15 gearing is dirt cheap. The 3.55 can be had for a decent price, but 3.73 and 4.09 start going up.
Granted, this pales in comparison to r200 lsd prices, and the cost of replacing the axles and stubs with something advertised as stronger than stock... nevermind trying to find the elusive 3.36 r200.
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Jason is rounding the final day of rocky mountain race week using this setup. He's 3rd place in the 10.00 true street class and drove a couple thousand miles so far in the course of a week and a half and will be driving that datsun home over 1,000 miles to California from kansas.
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Something to consider is that a k24 swap is going to want a 4.09 or even 4.56 final drive... and as others already mentioned, the 280z outer stubs are now approaching 50 years old... micro fractures and other issues will eventually rear their ugly head.
Consider the cost of an lsd unit, the intended ratio that fits your drivetrain needs, and the cost of disc brake conversions, future diff rebuilds and so on.
There's a LOT of factors there.
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The tube section that the has the 5/8 bolt going through it is shorter by 3/4 and i now include that 3/4 long section for people to place in front of, or behind the upright piece. Or section it and space it exactly to your liking, depending on how your shock upper setup is. Moving the wheel back requires moving the strut top back as well to prevent binding.
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Moving the wheel back centers it a little better in the quarter panel opening and allows maximum tire to fit whatever your flare or not flare setup is.
The stock wheel placement is heavily forward and the tires hit the front of the wheel well once you start getting too big.
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Did an install this weekend and grabbed a photo of the 3.55 diff in my latest cradle.
Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too
in Drivetrain
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