Stealth-Z
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Posts posted by Stealth-Z
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Will the RB26 valve covers seal the RB20 head? Thanks for the help.
Yes
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Here are some photos showing some of the differences between the RB20 and RB26 valve covers and timing covers. They are mounted on a RB20 head with the intake manifold bolted on for reference.
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#4 is a motor I came across while in the Philippines a few years ago. It came in their Nissan Cefiro. Funny seeing a carburator on it.
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R180. Same setup that was in my 76 and 78.
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Most likely you have a R180.
Do not toss it until you pull the cover and check the gear ratio. Both mine had 4:11's.
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Oh, apparently the later or Euro Stalks are different than the JDM stuff.
Mine doesn't say 'Pass' on it.
That's neat. Now I must posess one of those as well...my precious...must have my precious....
You missed the three stalks hanging on the peg board in my garage!
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$250.00 delivered and you have to ask for opinions? Just grab it and go from there.
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Most of it is under the passenger seat. There is a bypass switch I belive in the engine bay on the passenger side.
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Check the ground connection on the firewall close to the battery.
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My friend recently spent close to $1500 on his L28. In that cost was a master rebuild kit with oversized pistons. The N42 head was given a valve job and all the lash specs set.
We assembled the motor ourselves. The machine shop is on Folsom Blvd. in Rancho Cordova.
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You are not finished! It should have looked like this.
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changing the combustion chamber volume to 62cc and a 4.5cc dish on the pistons give you a ratio of 7.73:1. What he meant to say was a dome of 4.5 cc, which puts you at 8.66:1 with a combustion chamber vol of 62cc.
It is being claimed that using flat tops gives you 9:1. This is what does not make sense to me.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=212676&view=findpost&p=3938100
It is not the first time I have read this. The first set of Wiseco pistons had an equivelent of 5cc's dish.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119593&highlight=rb30+importance
No matter how I juggle the parameters, I still can not come up with the numbers being mentioned.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=664964&postcount=18
I am trying to clarify this so when people go out and spend $$$ on pistons they get thier desired results. I am curious if there is another way to measure or determine CR.
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What is everyone using for a compression ratio calculator? I am in what seems to be a never ending RB30/26 build.
I have been using the calculator for the four stroke version on Wiseco's website.
http://www.wiseco.com/Calculators.aspx
Here are the specs on the Wiseco pistons I have.
3.046 inches (86.5mm)
1.260 inch (32mm) Comp Height
16cc dome
The RB26 head I have measures out at 64cc's. The head gasket being used is a Cometic MLS 87mm. Cometic rates the thickness at .051 inches (1.295mm). My block has been decked and the pistons sit at a zero deck.
When I plug these numbers,
Bore Diameter = 3.046 (86.5mm)
Engine Stroke = 3.346 (85mm)
Head Volume = 64cc
Gasket Bore Diameter = 3.425 (87mm)
Compressed Gasket Thickness = .051
Deck Clearance = 0
Piston Effective Dome Volume = 16cc
With these numbers I get a CR of 9.69:1
My plan is to shave nearly 11cc's off the piston dome to bring the dome volume to 5cc. According to the calculator this would give me CR of 8.490:1.
Now here is my issue. There is a huge section on RB30 conversions on Skylines Australia http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB30-conversions-f184.html An individual who is very well known states pistons with a a 4.5cc dish sounds about right for 8.5 to 1 using a 62 cc combustion chamber. He says flat tops are good for 9.0 to 1.
His numbers do not seem right. Any one have an opinion? Are there different ways to measure and calculate that I am missing?
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1976 on up will require a smog certificate to register. If it has been sitting for a long time, all the rubber hoses will need to be replaced. Part of the smog check now includes pressurizing the fuel tank. If you do not get that vaccuum sound when removing the gas cap (after it has been running a while) then there may be a leaking hose down in the fuel tank area or somewhere else in the vapor return system. All of this is just a time consuming fix.
Check for rust inside the engine bay up near the hinges. 77's & 78's seem to have a problem there.
$1,600 for a non running project is a bit much.
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Vallejo has some interesting parking and towing procedures. The 1976 Fairlady Z I recently acquired was in a Vallejo tow yard. The previous owners neighbors complained about it being an eye sore and said the owner had not moved it in several days. The Vallejo PD was more than happy to have it towed. Most likely some one did complain.
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Cutting it up was not something I looked forward to. If the DMV penalties and fees were not so outragious, I would have kept it.
Unfortunetly this Z would have ended up in Pick-n-Pull or some other wrecking yard. We took great care to remove the parts along with bagging the nuts and bolts plus labeling them. The only thing I cut quickly was one front brake line. We carefully removed the whole brake and fuel line assembly.
There have been multiple times I have gone into Pick-n-Pull and found nice looking Z's shredded by people destructively removing parts. They rip off good door panels and use metal cutting sheers on good doors just to get the door handle or lock out. People jump on hoods and roofs for no appearant reason. The list goes on and on.
I did not need the quarter panels, rear valence assemblies, or floor pans. We carefully cut them off so some one else could possibly use them. Most of it is now sitting in my back yard.
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$1,000.00 is a bit high to me for a non running Z. Even if the dash is uncracked, chances are it will crack if you try to remove it.
Scrap metal is high in price right now. A few years ago car body's were going across the scales for about $30.00 a ton. Lately it has been over $250.00 per ton! Notice how now there are ads for offers to haul off your junk car for free. Cut off the catalytic converter, remove the radiator, and you have about $450.00 between those two pieces and the body.
I look at any car, no matter how much I like them, to be ultimately valued at "How much does it weigh"? It is just the cold hard fact.
My opinion is not to spend over $500.00 based on what you have stated. You will quickly surpass that amount in parts to repair it. Labor is another story if not done by yourself.
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I noticed ^.
Next time call me. I love cutting stuff up!
That is a clean 2+2 in the background also.
Nathan did not tell you?
Next we will be cutting up the red Fairlady Z 2+2 you see in the driveway...
NO I THINK NOT!
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How many interior parts were left?
The interior was pretty much gutted by the previous owner.
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Wow!
That was fast
How much for the roof?
Or at least a chunk out of the top of it to patch my ugly sunroof?
Sorry, the roof is going on Nicks Z.
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This is what eventually happens to a parts car. This Z will live on by being a doner for others. It would have ended up in a Pick-n-Pull yard or taken to the crusher anyway. This way at least the good parts were removed with some care. We tried to salvage as much as possible.
Thanks to Nick and Dan for the time this weekend.
Easy stuff comes off. My front yard soon becomes an auto part garden.
Suspension
Instead of lifting the motor and trans out, we lifted the body instead.
Nick and Dan pose with the cutting tool of choice, the Saws All.
Quarter panels and rear section removed.
Not much left.
Floor pans remain.
Fire wall.
Transmission tunnel.
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How about Rebello in Antioch?
http://www.rebelloracing.com/index.htm
You could also check with Z Car Garage in San Jose.
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Looking good, nice straight clean looking car....is that overspray on the driveway?
Yasin
Not overspray. That is a stain from something else I did. Combination of rust mort and water there. I rustmorted an area on another car and did not hose it down completely.
It may be a straight car but it is getting cut up this weekend. No place to store it and DMV wants almost $400.00 in back fees, penalities and what not.
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So where are the pics of the new aquisition itself?
Yasin
Rota RB/RB-R, 4x114.3, 17", Z-Offset Wheels
in Group Buys
Posted
Figured I should chime in on the exact suspension setup of the brown 78 280Z used a few months ago for testing. The suspension is not 100% stock. It has energy suspensions urethane bushings, Tokico strut inserts and blue MSA springs. Tie rods and ball joints were genuine Nissan parts. The setup was done about six months before the photos were taken.