calZ
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Posts posted by calZ
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I think the T-56 is so big that you have to. It's fine to leave them if the trans fits between them.
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On 2/12/2024 at 9:54 AM, didier said:
I meant to ask this before, but can you give some more details on the timing setup? It looks like you're using the stock Mercedes guides. What did you have to do to get those to fit the block?
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22 hours ago, tube80z said:
If you have a logger/dash and front and rear brake pressure sensors you can set it by pressure in the pits. Instead of turns. Turns are also hard to keep track of when you come running up to a corner. I have a Tilton pedal set and their bias adjuster already. I'm looking at changing from turns to a linear system of steps to easily change from max front to max rear. I've seen two systems I like. During the Schumacher era at Ferrari they created a stepped system so Michael could change brake bias between corners. Triple Eight racing (V8 Supercars) created a system like an ARB adjuster for their drivers and that's another option. I have had too many runs that rain started falling and I would have loved to be able to change bias and ARBs quickly. I'd like a Bosch motorsports ABS but it's too expensive to justify for me.
Have you read any about the Mk60 standalone systems? I'm in the process of putting one in my Z. They aren't quite on the level of a Bosch Motorsports system, but tons of people are using them effectively in racing.
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Ceramic spacers were my thought as well. You'll still get heat transfer through the bolts, but much less than two metal plates sandwiches together.
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Specifically a used OEM one? RockAuto seems to have a few different options for rebuilds
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Is there some type of coating on the hub splines? From your second picture, it looks like something is either peeling or being machined off as you slide it on. I would try cleaning out the hub splines with a wire brush. It surprises me sometimes how little it takes to really jam up things with a tight fit.
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14 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:
Need to look into driver safety gear, and would be inclined to source used if possible. Although not really sure if that’s a practical solution.
I was going to suggest just going and looking at the clearance rack at the Simpson factory store in Harbor City, but it appears they've closed up shop in the last couple years. That's really a shame. It was great to have a place like that locally. Cheap but new gear and also could get measured for a top-of-the-line custom suit. Looks like they moved everything to Texas.
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On 2/16/2024 at 3:26 AM, christianmoller said:
What is the size of gauges in 260/280?
Are they 4-1/2" and 2-5/8?
It seems like there is some sort of bracket kit on Speedhut webpage.
Christian
Yes, those measurements are correct.
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What were the issues you ran into with your intake?
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38 minutes ago, DuffyMahoney said:
I would not say this was a cheap intake to make:)
Haha of course, but probably a bargain compared to having it done in the US.
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Yeah, that makes sense. The middle man has to take his cut. I've had a few small things made for different projects and it always baffles me how cheaply I can get things. I ordered a small part recently, and it was ~$50 shipped to my house via air mail. Someone has to take the order, someone else has to machine it, another person has to package it, and then all the people it takes to get it to my step from China, yet all of them get paid somehow.
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Did you work directly with a machine shop over there or did you go through a service like Xometry or PCBWay?
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7 hours ago, Brad-ManQ45 said:
I think tubing is tubing and what's done on the ends in the enum make a difference...
If it works then that's it. I'd rather have performance over looks and I don't like the angles I saw for the first cylinders.
I think the angle of the picture is just playing tricks on your eyes. This has less of an angle change from the TB to the port and a longer radius on the plenum than the Protunerz intake.
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That looks like a nice solution. The 240Z has a different center vent setup, so I'll have to do something similar when I put mine in.
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What are you swapping to? I thought you were running this now
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Almost a year on now. Any more updates?
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The Cometic gasket that was designed by a member here (Jeff Priddy) is the current favorite. It has individually bossed holes for every possible port on every head/block, allowing you to add even more cooling pathways if you want. Godzilla and Milkfab both carry it.
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Or use a set of calipers?
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3 hours ago, OldAndyAndTheSea said:
1x Large Purple Hoodie
1x Large Orange T-shirt
Shipped to 13650
Thanks for all you're doing!
You're still around! Hopefully you still have your Z.
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1 x Hoodie Dark Heather XL
1 x T-shirt Dark Heather Gray L
90278
Thanks so much for doing this!
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Personally, I'd prefer something done a shirt printer. I've never had much luck with the iron-on kind. If @cockerstar wants to start taking pre-orders, I'm in for a hoodie and t-shirt at a minimum
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1 hour ago, 1984 said:
I'm surprised that no one is making these.
You used to be able to get a billet spray bar from Larry Hassler. I'm not sure if he's still making them or not. 626-358-2885 was his number. If you give him a call, please report back and let us know what his current price/availability is. It's always nice to know the options.
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There's also this option, which is meant for EFI conversions. It allows you to use a retrofit in-tank pump, or an OEM pump if you're going LS swap or similar.
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Front spoiler 240z
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Not sure where they source theirs, but that's a BRE "Spook" style chin spoiler. You can still get the ducted version from BRE, and multiple other places make a non-ducted version. Here's one
https://www.thezstore.com/product/625/bre-style-front-spoiler-fiberglass-70-874-240z-260z