turbogrill

Not sure, mine had. Send them an email, they helped me with questions. I ordered from speedwaymotors.com, I would email them as well to make sure you get the correct wheel. Can't remember if I had to pay shipping. Summit racing doesn't have shipping but they don't sell them I think,

These are even dot approved, maybe a requirement for you. http://www.bassettwheel.com/dot.html $70 a wheel....

There are some pictures here, It's stretched but for racing application it's the recommended width on 10s. Unless you need maxwidth for max performance on a track a 8 or 9" wide tire would be plenty. I have had both 16x6" and 15x8" Miata wheels, both of them looked a little bit more "normal".

Awesome! Good job. My car has a cage, thats what holding it together.

Check out basset racing wheels. That is what I have, 15x10. Cheap and surprisingly light. Do you know what backspacing you need?

Crash structure in passanger door, 7.5lbs. Couln't cut al lof it out, probablt 0.5lbs more to be had.

Just build a l28....or are you limited to bore somehow? Also, cam selection is very important. 10000 different strategies.

Sounds great! But point less getting the ld28 if you are not going l28? Isky has cams as well. Race car or DD?

Not sure if degreeing the cam makes much sense without a degree wheel? But maybe it does. I did check my timing and it was "kinda" ok. I was 2-3 degrees of on every event, I think that was due to inaccuracy in my readings. It's a fun exercise to at least check the timing of your cam, gives you a little better understanding of everything. But I wouldn't consider it crucial if you just want to get going. There is also a youtube showing how to do this: Good pics:

I am runnig 15x10 and 245s 200 TW tires (Maxxis VR1). Looks awesome and is very sticky. About a finger margin in the front, plenty of space in the back.

Hi, Wrote a post on facebook about building a 280zx race car. Figured I can post it here as well. Plenty of good discussions on Facebook but they get lost. First, why 280zx and Chump? Because it's 150 pts, 21 gallon fuel tank and not to heavy. These are some of my learnings (in arbitrary order) from starting with a 280zx and knowing nothing about building race cars (or racing): 1. Rear hatch glass From a fire safety point of view you should add lexan on the rear hatch, it doesn't cost any points. We also noticed a big improvement in aero, it's terrible from an aero perspective to run without a rear glass. Buy a lexan sheet at homedepot and rivet it, you can make a template from cardboard first. Cut 2 metal bars to hold it down. Look at the chumpcar rules, there is a minimum thickness allowed. Everyone does this mod. 2. Fuel starvation Even with stock power we had fuel starvation at around half tank and way before 2h stint limit. If you don't care about placement then this is not a problem, but it's going to hold you back more than lack of power or suspension. We would be faster than many other car but we had to stop for fuel even we had plenty of fuel in the tank! Solution is either hydramat or surgetank, or both. Alternative do a fuel cell (but install it correct!) 3. Wheels Big drawback with he 280zx platform is the lack of wide wheel options, it's a unusal bolt pattern and offset. We found that 15x10 works best (we tried 16x6 Miata, 14" stock, 15"x8 Miata) these are the one we use: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bassett-50ST4B-15X10-D... ROTA and XXR makes some 15x8 and 15x9. There are some really nice tire options as well, Ventus RS-4 is the best one (245s). Some racing people say that wide wheels doesn't matter, but all the top teams run wide wheels (I think they can cope with the heat better). There are several seconds per lap difference between a 15x10 and the stock 14". 4. Suspension The stock 280zx 40 year old suspension is terrible for racing. Way to soft. This is obviously a very complex subject that I am not an expert in. Poly bushings is an absolute must, for a budget build get some KYB and cut the springs. But I would get GC (or T3) coil overs, camber adjusters and maybe swaybar. We are running MSA camber bolt, cut eibach springs and biggets front swaybar. Car handles pretty ok. If you want to spend money, get everything fromhttps://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s130 5. Suspension - safety The flimsy stock tierod ends are known to break, this is a disaster. From a safety perspective I would get https://technotoytuning.com/.../tension-control-rods... It's $240 so it sucks but loosing steering is not fun. If you get T3 control arms you don't need it. 6. Power We had megasquirt and headers on a stock 1980 engine. We could hang with E46 323 and smoke most NA miatas, but there are plenty of cars that has more power as well. With 21 gallons it's tempting to get some more power, you have the points for it as well. Going turbo might seem interesting on paper but it's rare to see successful chump teams with turbo engines. So many options, it really comes down to budget, skill and the chumpcar rules. Megasquirt, homeported head, cam, headers and hogged out intake is a good low point low cost solution. There are also swaps, I think a 200hp crank swap is about what the rules allows for this car. 7. Brakes The 280zx stock calipers has decent stopping power, however I found them to struggle with the abuse (at COTA). The pre 81 rear brakes are TERRIBLE. Luckily they resdesinged the rear brakes after 81. For stock calipers we found that Carbotech RP2 in front and XP8 in back worked well. Motul 600 has worked well for us. However there are a few Wilwood conversions you can do, Arionza Z Car, Silvermine motors and T3 has some kits. I did the Silvermine in front and custom in the rear. Besides greater stopping power you get more pad options (cheaper). 8. Transmission The 4spd is made of glass, the pre 81 5spd is a little better. The post 81 5spd seems to be the best. There is a turbo transmission but this is rare and expensive. There is a very attractive modification you can do to a 240sx transmission, these are strong, plentiful and cheap. We have broken a 4spd and have 2 5spds that are a bit rough after a few races. I have a modified 240sx tranmsission, haven't installed it yet. Also get a lighter flywheel and a ACL-NX1-HDG6 clutch, works great. 9. Weight Remove as much as you can. There is a weight thread on this this forum. 10. Chassis We had a 4 points racetep strut brace that snapped. I think this means that it was needed! Also make sure the roll cage attaches to everything, you can play the rules a little here. I would pull out bars to the strut towwers, just make sure you are within the rules Have fun!

I guess swapping to a bigger TB doesn't do anything unless the manifold TB opening is ported accordingly.

Hi, At what HP/RPM levels will the stock Throttle body be a horsepower limitation? I am cutting up a L28 EFI intake with the intention to increase the runners to 34mm. Should I bother with a different TB?? Using a 280 duration cam and a lightly ported head on L28. HP goals are close to 200. For a race engine, I think shift point will be 6500-7000. Would be great if I could keep the stock one....

Funny, had the same situation 2 weeks ago (including hiding receipts from wife). ITM seems to be a good choice. There are some people here that have them in track cars and they seem to work well. Might consider forged if this is a race car, if you are constant at 6000-7500 then forged might be good. The MSA/Zcardepot forged ones sticks up a little more than the P79 specd pistons, at least that is what forum posts say. There is also DSI but they are very expensive but can be made in any size (86-90mm). But if you are spending $800 on something that might give you issues you might as well spend $1300 on something awesome It's very attractive to get a set of 89mm DSI pistons, but requies an expensive headgasket (felpro is only 88mm). 87.5mm is a budget blance... I have heard that the DSI pistons are just rebranded Kamaeri, so might be able to get them cheaper. Not sure how much DSI adds in profit.

At first this sounded like the dumbest idea ever but thinking about it it can make sense. If you know L28 and have L28 parts then why not? A "normal" turbo KA seems to be about 300 whp, that is not a strange number for a L28ET. The L28ET also came as a turbo from factory, that is always a good start. Lots of people fiddling with L28. For NA the L28 is much more common than KA24. Downside would be weight and I think the KA24 gets better mileage and emissions. But I have no experience with KA at all....

Besides head gasket being a little pricey and a sonic test is recommended , is there any other issues/risks/costs? Obviously custom pistons are needed.

Hi, Are the Kameari gaskets the only big bore gaskets available? Seems like Cometic is 89mm and felpro and Nissan are 88.9 (or 88mm depending on source). Thanks

Hi, Why is no one doing a 3.0L using L28 rods? Would the bore/stroke ratio be bad? This would need customs pistons with same spec as the flat top but with a 88mm bore.

From megasquirt you can also put it into test mode. This will fire the coils without adding fuel. This is very useful to make sure you got it right. So you can fire only SparkA and then make sure that cylinders 1 and 6 are firing (using a timing light or listen). Then do the same for SparkB and SparkC.

Do you already have a harness for the COP?

Somewhere there is a harness going from the megasquirt. Lookd like its runnung wasted spark. This means that 2 coils will fire at the sametime. Cylinder 1 is front of car, cylinder 6 is towards the rear. Spark A: 1 and 6 Spark B: 2 and 5 Spark 😄 3 and 4 (Fire order is 1-5-3-6-2-4) So find SparkA in the harness and connect to 1 and 6, the other wires of the coils go to switched 12v. same for sparkb and sparkc.

I assume controlling timing is very important for turbo. He also needs a DIYAUTOTUNE trigger wheel to pop into is dizzy right?

What is your concern about innovate?

I wouldn't bother until you have ms installed! You should get a wideband, what about timing?

What would be the significant change in manufacturing process if you had higher volumes? (And lower cost) Just curious, all this is miles over my head.