tyranie909

Already run a LS1 with 4l60e. Currently run a 3.53 rear end. I wouldn’t have really messed with it if i didn’t get it all so cheap. Worst case I just resell the motor setup for a profit and build the LS1 and buy a 4l80e to replace thr 4l60e (I hate that transmission). Junkyard is delivering it today. Will get the old motor pulled out sometime this month and begin test fitting. If it is much wider up front, I will just cut up the trans tunnel and make it bigger. Real issue is being wider further back as there is just no room to expand.

240 isn’t too bad since it has a little more room. Will fit in a 280 as well. Just requires a hammer and some love. You also have to completely remove the big rectangular mounts that run from the top of the tunnel to the bottom. That has to be done even to fit the 4l60.

I have put a 4l80e in a 240. As long as it isn’t much bigger it may fit after a little hammering. Either way I think I am going to buy the setup. He is now just going to give motor/trans/harness for 4K and I can’t turn that down. Let me know if you manage to get those measurements, that would help a fair bit. Once I get my LS1 out, I will test fit the new setup and see how far off it is.

I finished my LS1 and 4l60e swap this spring into my s30. Have enjoyed driving it this year. My plan this winter was to pull the motor and trans and rebuild them. Both are bone stock. Motor is going to be completely rebuilt with c/h/i. While trans is getting built up to handle more power and fix failing clutches. That was until my friend at the junkyard called and said he has a ls3/6l80e with harness and pedal out of a 2013 Camaro ss with 50k miles. I can get it for about $4300. I know the ls3 is no issue, but I can’t find anyone who has put a 6l80e. How much bigger is it than a 4l80e? My LS1 has about 180k miles on it and by the time I rebuild both it and trans with a higher stall, I figure I will have about what the ls3 pull would cost me. My Z was originally an automatic, as was the donor z28 Camaro I took the original drivetrain from. I guess I could always convert to manual and run a t56. Is a 6l80e something I can message in, or is it a major surgery not worth messing with.

What suspension mods do you have? I run a 16x8 and 225/50. I could have easily fit a bigger tire in the back but the front only had a pinky finger gap between spring perch and tire. This is with stock suspension with new struts and lowering springs. I had run into the same issue as you while researching a tire size. If you want to run a bigger tire then you are going to need to get aftermarket coilovers. If you don't want to do that then you can run the 225/50 but may have to trim the spring purch. Personally my car sits to high with lowering springs and will be going with adjustable coilovers all around so I can run bigger tires and get a better stance.

In case anyone stumbles onto this thread later, there is no easy solution to replacing these. Rear strut insulators for 75 and above 280z and late model 260 are no longer produced. The shorter front ones are and will fit 74 and below 240z. While they technically will fit the later 280z, they are a fair chunk shorter and will lower the rear end by a fair bit. The only real solution to replacing these is to find a donor car and pull them or hope someone has an extra set. Luckily I found a local junk yard that had a pair that I could pull. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

I am about to purchase 16x8 rota grid v as well. I have seen a few threads saying you have to remove material from either wheel or hub to make them fit snug. Is this really the case, or do I just torque them down as stated above?

Guys I am looking for a solution to replace my rotten rear strut insulators on my 280z (75). After doing some research, I found that no one makes them any more. All you can buy are the front ones which are too short for the rear (unless you car is 74 or below). Anyone found a way to rig the the fronts with a spacer of some sort? Or maybe happen to have a set sitting around? Go figure after doing a LS swap, complete rewrite, and rust repair, that this insulator would be the biggest pain in the butt.